your preferred sharpening method for CPK

Nathans edges are quite amazing and after a year of use, Ive only had to strop em, and after that I use my Wicked Edge to match his original edge, but just to make it “toothier”.

I only go 600 grit then I strop it on leather, and its hair poppin again:)

His knives sharpen up in less time than any Ive tried on my W.E. because his original edge and symmetry is so good from the start.:)
Use the sharpie and do a few test swipes with a medium grit to adjust placement before committing to the rough grit.
I just did my D2 edc1 and it took only 12 minutes from set up to clean up.

I spent 6 hours on a Ratmandu once, thats the longest Ive spent to fix an edge ever.

But I would practice on at least 10 different sized knives before putting his master piece in your W.E. If you’re new at it.
 
azwelke azwelke with a good stone even a comparably obtuse knife can be taken down in less than 30 min. If you reprofiled the blade with only a 600 grit stone you may consider going down to 100 or so grit equivalency with a diamond stone or auto sandpaper. I am not contradicting your experience, however the 6 hr edge fix on a Ratmandu is an issue of method and not edge thickness.
 
in response to this thread, I posted a video here
like in most things, I'm no expert, but I do know my way around an edge somewhat, so take all that for what it's worth :)
 
You didn’t see the RMD :p


Panthera tigris said:
azwelke azwelke with a good stone even a comparably obtuse knife can be taken down in less than 30 min. If you reprofiled the blade with only a 600 grit stone you may consider going down to 100 or so grit equivalency with a diamond stone or auto sandpaper. I am not contradicting your experience, however the 6 hr edge fix on a Ratmandu is an issue of method and not edge thickness.
Click to expand...
 
Oyster said:
My understanding is that the regular compounds (i.e. black and green) will remove the softer material but aren’t able to cut the vanadium carbides. The result is that you get a sharp edge at first but, with continued stropping, the softer material is slowly taken away and the (uncut) vanadium carbides remain without anything to hold them in the matrix so that they easily tear out, quickly leaving a dull edge.
Click to expand...

Wow I had no idea. You guys that are heavy 3v users.. are diamond stones pretty much required?
 
If you are able to, I would love to hear your thoughts. Delta 3v is obviously very hard. It would make sense (in my mind) that you would need an extremely hard substance (diamond) to sharpen it properly.
 
Hardness and wear resistance are different properties. Any good stone can sharpen 3v perfectly well. The issue discussed previously is a specific shortcoming of variable grit buffing compound or rouge and not traditional stones. Even then I'm not convinced it's a big deal.
 
D3V is easy and enjoyable to sharpen. If you've ever sharpened a properly hardened carbon steel knife, D3V isn't different
highly alloyed materials like elmax, S90V etc are of a different category, in my experience, that require more work to get sharpness back
 
here's what I use;
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Panthera tigris said:
Hardness and wear resistance are different properties. Any good stone can sharpen 3v perfectly well. The issue discussed previously is a specific shortcoming of variable grit buffing compound or rouge and not traditional stones. Even then I'm not convinced it's a big deal.
Click to expand...

Lorien said:
D3V is easy and enjoyable to sharpen. If you've ever sharpened a properly hardened carbon steel knife, D3V isn't different
highly alloyed materials like elmax, S90V etc are of a different category, in my experience, that require more work to get sharpness back
Click to expand...

Thanks guys.
 
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