Zdp·189 or Super Blue

The Deacon said:
Neither. I'd suggest if they're in the market for a Spyderco folder that's made in Japan they stick to VG-10 unless they want something with teeth, in which case they'd be better served by H-1. The way I see it, all that ZDP-189 offers is deferred maintenance. Sure, you only need to sharpen it 1/3 as often, but it takes 3 times as long so there's no real gain. The price for that is higher cost and lower rust resistance. As for Super Blue, it's even worse, since it tosses rust resistance straight out the window.
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I'm debating being out on both. I am late to the party and just discovered the Mule Team Project. I had heard of it before but never paid attention to what it actually was. Been looking for a reason to get a fixed blade, now the question becomes PSF27 or Cts·B70p lol
 
Between the two, I'd go with Super Blue. Sure it'll rust, but just give it wipe down if it's wet, occasionally oil the pivot, no problems. I think the great edge it takes far out weighs the fact it's not stainless.
 
Brisket said:
Both are great steels to experience, but I would also recommend getting Super Blue while you still can at a reasonable cost. ZDP will hold an edge longer and is more corrosion resistant than Super Blue, but I am very fond of Super Blue and its properties. I like the looks when it patinas and how the edge seems to grab ahold of what it is cutting. The Caly 3.5 Super Blue might just be my all time favorite Spyderco.

SpydercoCaly35SuperBlue1_zpscc48bb68.jpg
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Totally agree. :thumbup:




CryoGuy5272 said:
I'm debating being out on both. I am late to the party and just discovered the Mule Team Project. I had heard of it before but never paid attention to what it actually was. Been looking for a reason to get a fixed blade, now the question becomes PSF27 or Cts·B70p lol
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I've got mules in 52100 and Super Blue. Would like a PSF27 to try as well.
I wouldn't count out ZDP-189.
Super Blue only count out if the price makes it unobtainable or unjustifiable to use.
For all these people who dislike Super Blue, or its lack of stainless properties, please make them available to those of us who enjoy it, pretty please! :D :thumbup: :p



wire edge said:
Between the two, I'd go with Super Blue. Sure it'll rust, but just give it wipe down if it's wet, occasionally oil the pivot, no problems. I think the great edge it takes far out weighs the fact it's not stainless.
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I don't know why people fear or complain of rust on Super Blue..?
A little love and care (part of the fun of owning and using it) and it just develops a beautiful character in the patina. I'm actually amazed at one of my SB Delicas and a SB Caly that I actually kind of lack care with and still no issues of rust.
 
Just an update. I couldn't help myself so I just ordered a Superblue Manbug and Zdp Ladybug. That should settle the debate lol
 
SpeedHoles said:
Haha nice! :D
...or, it just might have sparked the Man vs. Lady Bug debate.
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That too. My thought is I've heard issues with chipping with both, so them being small light duty knives I'll be less likely to put them to work doing something that will cause damage. My Vg10 Delica and s30v Pm2 see the majority of the really hard stuff.
 
CryoGuy5272 said:
That too. My thought is I've heard issues with chipping with both, so them being small light duty knives I'll be less likely to put them to work doing something that will cause damage. My Vg10 Delica and s30v Pm2 see the majority of the really hard stuff.
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Chipping isn't anything I've ever worried about or experienced with Super Blue. I have had tiny chipping in ZDP-189, and believe it or not, more so in S30V, but that may be because I have more of it and therefore use it more...
Then again, don't always believe what you read. Go ahead and try them all first-hand!
 
Between VG-10, S30V, ZDP-189, and Aogami SuperBlue, SuperBlue should definitely have the highest apex stability and be the most resistant to chipping. Abrasive wear resistance (More useful cutting cardboard etc.) will definitely favour S30V and ZDP though.
 
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