That is excellent! Are most of those tool-steel blades for saws, chisels, wood planers...?
There are two aspects i am interested in, at least some of which you may be able to satisfy:
1) personal experience utilizing these different high-Rc steels - what behaviors have you observed comparing similar edge geometries, specifically with reference to edge-degradation and edge retention as well as sharpening, and finally corrosion resistance. Questions for this would include:
a) how are you using the blades? What type of cutting? In what environments (specifically is there any reason to be concerned about corrosion)?
b) what edge geometries are you aiming for?
c) what sort of edge-finish do you give the blades (grit, etc.)?
2) Testing the edges in a consistent and relatively controlled fashion - establishing similar edge geometries and subjecting them to the same types of stress with the intention of causing at least some measureable amount of edge damage, doesn't need to be totally destructive, just enough to cause a "brittle" steel to chip noticeably. Then testing the steel (finished to a similar polish on each to minimize the impact of corrosive elements) - is ZDP any more or less rust-prone than these others? Which can take a patina well vs not?
The home made M3 knives are made from Starret power hacksaw blades. M35/M42/T42 knives are made from 80's/90's era US made parting tools with 5/8/10% cobalt.
One of the M2 knives (66hrc) is from Bluntcut. The rest are production Benchmades and Spydercos.
The knife steel I judge all others by is the little T42 I made in '85, specifically for separating 3-phase motor leads in an industrial environment.
This involves cutting through cambic/rubber/plastic tape, sometimes 1/2 inch thick and into nuts/bolts used to fasten the leads. The tape needs to be pryed away from the connection as its being cut, that means prying against the bolts. Sometimes the tape is no longer pliable, it's hard and brittle from years of heat.
Other destructive uses are scraping corroded wire and electrical connectors, ringing sealtite conduit, reaming steel tubing cutting steel shields & braids, scraping metal ID tags, basically anything needed when another tool is not available, and sometimes when there are other tools available but because a knife just works better.
Sharpening angle is not exact because I've always free handed on bench stones, but over the years muscle memory has somewhat locked in. I have taken the trouble to randomly measure some of my edges. The presentation side is about 14 degrees, the other side about 17, usually +/- 1 degree, with some convex. For some reason this is just how they turn out unless I make a conscience effort to change it.
Up till recently, finishing was always on a fine Eze-Lap diamond plate unless experimenting. This seems to give the best all around utility edge for me and a little better edge life for my hss blades. I do keep a couple knives with 1 micron diamond paste finish for specialty purposes.
There's no steel that has held up with my use without damage, but some suffer less than others.
The ZDP I have does excellent when making straight cuts, even when the edge gets into other steel like nuts and bolts, but starts to falter more than HSS as the edge gets stressed off center. If I'm going to scrape or pry against other hard metals, I have to go easy.
I feel sharpening anything is mostly a non issue with diamond abrasives. All steels touch up quickly and easily, if that's all they need, and can take a good while if damaged or blunted.
I don't intentionally oil any of my blades, just wipe them down after use, or when I think to, sometime with a fresh water rinse, but they do pick up oils in the work environment. The flip side is, they also pick who knows what else, some stuff highly corrosive.
Haven't had any corrosion problems with ZDP, just turns kinda dull grey and splotchy, no pitting.
M2 and M3 get a light dusting at times but mostly wipe off with no pitting.
M4 does well unless it's sweat soaked in my pocket all day. I've experienced pin hole pitting with it.
M35/42 & T42 seem to be very corrosion resistant for non stainless. My little T42 lives in a leather scabbard in my fly vest on 1-2 week fishing trips, wet most of the time with very little staining. There's no telling how many hundreds of trout it has processed over the years, maybe the fish oil helps.
I'm not equiped to do any kind of controlled testing like others here, just using different blades for the same/similar tasks. For work, I always go back to hss for its overall performance and minimal edge maintenance.
My observations hold no weight when it comes to conclusions, and don't expect them to, but I always like reading other experiences whether from just use or formal testing. When it differs from mine, I try to learn and understand why.
I would like to fill in a lot of gaps here, but already made this reply too long. To summerize, ZDP is a great steel I like for reasons already stated here, holds an edge much longer than most steels, sharpens well without super abrasives, has good edge stability for most normal uses, high hardness, reasonably stainless for me... but prefer mid to high hardness hss over it for MY work use.
but they also aren't the end. His testing was very limited (only one surface finish, not compared to steels at similar Rc). It would be great if Larrin could report on the corrosion resistance of the high-Rc CPM-154 as well as a high Rc tool steel to give a good comparison what happened with the ZDP and try different surface finishes... But Larrin is not made of money: 
