Zdp-189

I think the laminated version may be be better. The Spyderco Cali Jr has big fans for its ZDP-189 laminated blade. Kershaw made some solid Leeks. From what I've read, the solid ZDP-189 Leeks tended to break off at the tip.
 
I think the laminated version may be be better. The Spyderco Cali Jr has big fans for its ZDP-189 laminated blade. Kershaw made some solid Leeks. From what I've read, the solid ZDP-189 Leeks tended to break off at the tip.

It was one case of this tip broken as result of clear misuse, however the guy who did this was quite a loud and persistant. I did not see any other reports, but only that one, so

ZDP-189 does not tended to break at the tip!

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I'd guess the very thin tip of the Leek may have been a factor as well. Maybe he was trying to pry something, who knows? Somebody must be doing tests on ZDP-189. Anybody have some links? I saw a good review of the Cali Jr. I think the website was something like cutlery science or something like that. I want to know if ZDP-189 will chip or break more than other high tech steel. I'd also like to know how hard it is to sharpen.
 
No it doesnt break easy and yes it is harder to sharpen than most other stainless steels (S30V,BG-42,VG-10). Diggin up an old thread here.
 
No it doesnt break easy and yes it is harder to sharpen than most other stainless steels (S30V,BG-42,VG-10). .

Ah, but the extra time is worth it. That darn ZDP has the best edge retention at a 30degree edge angle of any steel ever.
 
This guy said his solid ZDP-189 rusts in one day just from the sweat in his pocket. To make matters worse, he says he can't polish out the pits.

http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29159

It seems like it might be better to have a blade with more stain resistant stainless on the sides. The Caly Jr ZDP-189 is made like that.

Other people have also remarked on how fast solid ZDP-189 stains.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423720
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=429003
http://www.spyderco.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23380
 
I am in no way an expert when it comes to what blade steel is made from, but I do get what the variety of steels represent when it come to honing and holding an edge. I recently purchased my Delica4 ZDP189 and at first it seemed that it was going to be the most arduous task to maintain the razor sharp edge that it came with NIB. But after much trial and error, and with my zero tolerance for a less than razor sharp edge, I think that I have a simple and effective technique to hone the edge to GRIMM sharpness. I use the Lansky Ceramic Crock Sticks that come in the 20 & 25 degree wooden carry box. and by the way these rods kick ass on just about any blade steel. For this particular steel, I just use the dark rods and stroke downward, perpendicular to the wooden box and position them in the 20 degree holes. Its up to you how many times you need to stroke, but alternate sides of the blade with every stroke. You will find that eventually, with simply checking the hone by finger, it will become very sharp. You should use firm to hard force on each stroke along these rods as this steel just will not relent unless pressed into reform against the appropriate sufrace. Next, use the white rods in the 25 degree holes and stroke each side starting with moderately light to very light passes and again alternating passes. By this time the edge should be scary sharp. The final step I use is a dry leather strop with firm pressure with the edge trailing the direction of the pass. Five passes per side and your blade might just meet even your most demanding of sharpness inspections. I know this is lengthy but it really works for me....Good luck!
 
To love someone is a very demanding thing....to care for everyone is much easier.
I am in no way an expert when it comes to what blade steel is made from, but I do get what the variety of steels represent when it come to honing and holding an edge. I recently purchased my Delica4 ZDP189 and at first it seemed that it was going to be the most arduous task to maintain the razor sharp edge that it came with NIB. But after much trial and error, and with my zero tolerance for a less than razor sharp edge, I think that I have a simple and effective technique to hone the edge to GRIMM sharpness. I use the Lansky Ceramic Crock Sticks that come in the 20 & 25 degree wooden carry box. and by the way these rods kick ass on just about any blade steel. For this particular steel, I just use the dark rods and stroke downward, perpendicular to the wooden box and position them in the 20 degree holes. Its up to you how many times you need to stroke, but alternate sides of the blade with every stroke. You will find that eventually, with simply checking the hone by finger, it will become very sharp. You should use firm to hard force on each stroke along these rods as this steel just will not relent unless pressed into reform against the appropriate sufrace. Next, use the white rods in the 25 degree holes and stroke each side starting with moderately light to very light passes and again alternating passes. By this time the edge should be scary sharp. The final step I use is a dry leather strop with firm pressure with the edge trailing the direction of the pass. Five passes per side and your blade might just meet even your most demanding of sharpness inspections. I know this is lengthy but it really works for me....Good luck!
 
I sharpen ZDP189 quite a lot and honestly do not see dramatic difference in terms of making it hair slicing sharp. It may require diamond powder at the end after Green Rouge, unlike many other softer steel, but so do all CPM S30/60/90V require and I think it is easy to sharpen ZDP189 then any of that CPM because of too much vanadium.

I like to thanks Sal for his effort to bring this exotic steel at 2004 available only from Roacksted to be regular on production folders now 2007-2008.

I hope to see another Roacksted choice - YXR7 sometime too...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I have a spyderco delica zdp... I buggered the edge near the tip cutting through heavy zip ties. I sent it in to get sharpened - maybe it will be ok. I noticed that it stains a bit but I also noticed that the stains are transiant in that they go away without thinking about them. It will rust a bit as I left mine in water over night soaking all the really nasty stuff. It had some rust in the morning that wiped away with no problems.

I can't really complain about it all in all...
 
Can't say as I've had any trouble with rust with my blue-handled zdp delica. The worst it ever got was a tiny bit of rust inside of the thumb hole after a humid day by the ocean in the summertime, and it cleared right up with some light scrubbing with an old toothbrush.
 
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