Zero Tolerance 0561 problems detent way too strong

erich995 said:
I figured I would bitch about it first. Agreed the warranty path is the best option. On a side note, does ZT warranty care if you take apart the knife for cleaning/oiling or does that void the warranty?
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No, cleaning and oiling does not void the warranty. If the knife becomes damaged by the customer's disassembly (or attempt at modification), the warranty may be voided. However, these issues are decided on a case to case basis, and our warranty technicians will have the best answers.
 
erich995 said:
I figured I would bitch about it first. Agreed the warranty path is the best option. On a side note, does ZT warranty care if you take apart the knife for cleaning/oiling or does that void the warranty?
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Just think how much time you could have saved by less bitchin' and more getting the problem resolved. :rolleyes:

Just sayin'
 
Erich, not trying to pile on you here, but the detent stiffness is a good thing on a flipper, and proper technique will go a LONG way. Also, as mentioned the thumbstuds work perfectly fine on this knife, also when used properly.

Also, like with anything else, a break in period is often necessary with a folder, especially a framelock due to the amount of contact between the lock face on the blade and the lockbar. Some of my customs in the $500 plus range have come in just perfect directly from the maker, but most "high end' folders can still require some break in time. I just recieved a $400 framelock from a well known maker last week and the lockbar was as stiff as could be. Took two hands to disengage it and after a couple dozen tries I felt a blister forming on my thumb. What did I do? I put that sucker in my pocket and used it for a mere three straight days. The result was an exceptionally made knife with a lockbar that now works buttery smooth. It was easy and I didn't have to hassle with any shipping or not having my knife for a couple weeks.

The point is that you need to give an issue like this a little time and use before you go making a judgement and throwing your knife in the mailbox. More often than not, issues like yours resolve themselves if you give it a chance. We simply can't expect every single knife to be operating at complete potential right out of the box......but we CAN expect them to work beautifully after a brief break in:thumbup:
 
jonnymac44 said:
Erich, not trying to pile on you here, but the detent stiffness is a good thing on a flipper, and proper technique will go a LONG way. Also, as mentioned the thumbstuds work perfectly fine on this knife, also when used properly.

Also, like with anything else, a break in period is often necessary with a folder, especially a framelock due to the amount of contact between the lock face on the blade and the lockbar. Some of my customs in the $500 plus range have come in just perfect directly from the maker, but most "high end' folders can still require some break in time. I just recieved a $400 framelock from a well known maker last week and the lockbar was as stiff as could be. Took two hands to disengage it and after a couple dozen tries I felt a blister forming on my thumb. What did I do? I put that sucker in my pocket and used it for a mere three straight days. The result was an exceptionally made knife with a lockbar that now works buttery smooth. It was easy and I didn't have to hassle with any shipping or not having my knife for a couple weeks.

The point is that you need to give an issue like this a little time and use before you go making a judgement and throwing your knife in the mailbox. More often than not, issues like yours resolve themselves if you give it a chance. We simply can't expect every single knife to be operating at complete potential right out of the box......but we CAN expect them to work beautifully after a brief break in:thumbup:
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Well said Jonny :thumbup::thumbup:
 
You may try the technique other users tried with the 0550, which was to leave the knife halfway open for a few hours. For some reason this helps out, whether it's flattening the detent ball a little or releasing some of the spring pressure of the lock bar.
 
I've had my 0560 for less than two days, and it has smoothed out nicely with a little bit of flipping. It works great, and is a nice compliment to my 0551.
 
See my edited post #14 - I returned to the ZT-enabler - and left with a 0561!

Stainz
 
I have the 0550 and had the same issue at first. It took two hands to open it right out of the box it was so tight. Kind of expected this having another ZT and used to have a XM (sold it like a fool for something else and regretted since). What I did was to buy a Hinderer scale and installed it. After breaking loose the central pivot screw and reassembling the scale, it was easy to adjust the tightness and make the knife much easier to open. There was a fine line between too tight and just loose enough. Beyond that it caused blade play. What others have said about the proper push up (not out) angle is a key. If you look close the scale will actually guide where you should drive your thumb upward. That said, even with a less tight adjustment on the central pivot screw, the knife was still a bit hard to open (albeit much less hard) until it was cycled through for about a week whenever I was thinking about it. Now after break-in it just glides open (and never gets left behind). Adding one of Rick's scales was icing on the cake.
 
Anyone who actually cares about making their knife easier to open see post #7 and do as instructed. If not then have fun complaining.
 
I can fix it , just send it to me . I'll use it till it loosens up then I 'll send it back I 'll even pay for shipping :cool: this kind of skill can't be rushed so it may take some time :D
 
If your 0561 is any thing like mine was, and it sounds like the same issue, just send it in. I got mine back in less than a week and it is functioning so much better now. I could have sat there and flipped the thing a thousand times and I don't know if it would have got any better.
 
A bearing pivot knife needs a strong detent to flip properly. The other knives you own from ZT use torsion bars for their opening where a detent is not needed for proper deployment. That same torsion bar keeps the knife closed in your pocket. This reminds me of the guys who feel that their Microtech scarabs are defective because the knife is too hard to fire. Its not the knife its the user. Sometimes to use certain tools we need to adapt to them and get stronger to utilize them to their potential. Detents break in over time. If the knife was easy to open right out of the box the detent would wear out relatively quickly and would be pretty useless.
 
PURPLEDC said:
A bearing pivot knife needs a strong detent to flip properly. The other knives you own from ZT use torsion bars for their opening where a detent is not needed for proper deployment. That same torsion bar keeps the knife closed in your pocket. This reminds me of the guys who feel that their Microtech scarabs are defective because the knife is too hard to fire. Its not the knife its the user. Sometimes to use certain tools we need to adapt to them and get stronger to utilize them to their potential. Detents break in over time. If the knife was easy to open right out of the box the detent would wear out relatively quickly and would be pretty useless.
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This is a solid post.

I've handled every 0560/61 that has come through warranty. A few we received claiming they couldn't flip the knife...detent to strong. Let's just say I've yet to see one with a detent that is too strong. The ones I handled had a perfect detent set-up.
 
This reminds me of all the 'my OD-1 is impossible to open' threads I read when I found my OD-1 blem very hard to deploy. It took me a day or two to figure out the proper way to manipulate the unique flipper on the knife but now I can deploy it just as easily as the rest of my Kershaw flippers.

I can't wait to get my hands on one of these puppies. I think I might have to sell a Benchmade just to make sure I can jump on one when I see it for sale.
 
I got in two of these over the weekend, a 0560 and 0561. The 0560 was perfect, easy to flip. The 0561 was a little stiff, even the slightest amount of pressure on the lock-bar would make it not flip properly. Tweaked the lock-bar tension (reduced it) so that the amount of pressure to unlock was the same for both, and not the 0561 flips just like the 0560.

DISCLAIMER: Do NOT disassemble and/or adjust your lock-bar unless you know what you're doing!
 
Every 0560/61 is going to be unique and at the same time differ themselves from their "twins". How each individual prefers their set-up is not always how their knife will show up. Tweaking to taste can be dangerous for those that are inexperienced, and sending in and trusting we know your "feel" will be touchy.

Together we'll all do our very best to dial in our 0560/61 to the best of our abilities.
 
As far as the Laser cut lockbar versus the water jet cut... Which way was first? And which way are they doing now? I'd prefer the smaller gap, but don't know which versions had that.

Were the first examples the ones with the large gap, or is it the later ones? I'm confused. Thanks.
 
miyamoto musashi said:
As far as the Laser cut lockbar versus the water jet cut... Which way was first? And which way are they doing now? I'd prefer the smaller gap, but don't know which versions had that.

Were the first examples the ones with the large gap, or is it the later ones? I'm confused. Thanks.
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The first few 0560's had the long lockbar slot machined out. The last few runs have had the laser cut lockbar slot, and this narrower style will be used on all subsequent runs.
 
jimmer_5 said:
The first few 0560's had the long lockbar slot machined out. The last few runs have had the laser cut lockbar slot, and this narrower style will be used on all subsequent runs.
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Thanks, jimmer_5. I just received mine from the postman, and although I would have liked to have one of the first examples, I'm happy to have the newer, laser cut lockbar slot, with the thinner gap. It looks nice. Initial thoughts compared to my Strider SMF? I like the Strider much better, but I'm hoping the 0560 will grow on me. My skin keeps getting chaffed inside that open pillar construction. I'd prefer a backspacer of some sort, even if it's not integrated.

With all the mods popping up with custom scales, if anyone makes a backspacer for these things, put me on the list. Better yet, would be for someone to custom machine a thicker G-10 scale, with integrated backspacer - so I can get rid of the liner all together, and get the weight down to around the Strider.
 
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