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Zero Tolerance ZT0350 lockup/authenticity question.

W

waffles860

Joined
Aug 26, 2025
Messages
7
Hey everyone, finally had a question I was unsure enough about to register and ask. I got this ZT0350 used a little bit ago that had some issues. The pivot and grip handle screws were loose, the opening was stiff, the blade was off center, and the torsion spring was pretty rusty. I adjusted it a bit to the point where the opening was OK, and now I'm noticing my frame lock looks to be barely engaged (pictured). It doesn't feel any different than it did, so I'm not sure if this was a me-caused error or something else. In the course of googlin' up on it, I saw that various ZT 0350 models got faked a bit, and I'd also like to be sure this is real. Per the stuff I can find online the most easy tells all point to real (T8 pivot, T6 everything else, all the pocket clip holes are drilled/threaded, the back side of the pivot is hexagonal (though as pictured it looked kinda round, had to push it out to confirm that it was hexagonal), and the liners/internals looked dead on to some of the real examples in youtube disassembly vids).

My basic questions are, is this real, and if so, is the liner lock engagement enough, something that can be fixed DIY (if I put enough pressure on it with a tool the liner pushes over slightly more for what I'd consider a better engagement), or something I need to be messaging Kai CS about?

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Did it come with a box and papers? Sometimes comparing those to legit pictures helps. Small stuff like foil vs matt lettering. Spacing, model and materials details.

If you push the liner with your finger will it engage any deeper? Is the blade sitting pretty on the stop pin?
 
No box no papers. I can't push it with a finger but can push it with light pressure applied in a prying motion. Don't see a stop pin (I was under the impression these stopped on the thumb stud but I might be misunderstanding that)
 
waffles860 said:
No box no papers. I can't push it with a finger but can push it with light pressure applied in a prying motion. Don't see a stop pin (I was under the impression these stopped on the thumb stud but I might be misunderstanding that)
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I believe it does, especially if you don't see another pin cross or hidden. Im a little surprised they would choose that volcano stud shape if that's the case. Would expect something to maximize contact surface. It looks like its resting on there from what can be seen in the pics.

My opinion is that if the interface is solid, you just have some early lockup. I personally wouldn't be overly concerned if the blade is tight in all directions and it couldn't take a few decent whacks on the spine without unlocking.

If it really bothered me and I thought the liner was not under enough tension. I'd take it apart and bend it ever so slightly towards the opposing liner to add some lateral tension.

Do you see any wear on the blade side that looks like it locked deeper at any point? Or does it seem to be where it always was?
 
I can't really tell if it ever locked deeper. I can definitely get the lock to fail with a couple moderate whacks on the spine to the table edge, but when the lock is pushed further over no issues. I'll try bending the liner to see if that helps, it's definitely a potential safety issue so I'm going to do something on it.
 
waffles860 said:
I can't really tell if it ever locked deeper. I can definitely get the lock to fail with a couple moderate whacks on the spine to the table edge, but when the lock is pushed further over no issues. I'll try bending the liner to see if that helps, it's definitely a potential safety issue so I'm going to do something on it.
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Contact ZT before you do anything. Their support is good.
 
waffles860 said:
I can't really tell if it ever locked deeper. I can definitely get the lock to fail with a couple moderate whacks on the spine to the table edge, but when the lock is pushed further over no issues. I'll try bending the liner to see if that helps, it's definitely a potential safety issue so I'm going to do something on it.
Click to expand...

Id let some others chime in and see what they have to say first. If you do end up doing that, a little bit goes a long way. You don't want a sticky lock either.
 
Yeah, contacting support is always best but so is reading instructions. JJ, I obsessively read all instructions.

This gap is a little curious. Was it there when the pivot was tight?

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Ha hadn't even noticed that gap. It's very hard to see in use and doesn't seem loose. I'll reach out to Kai and see what they say about the lockup bit, hopefully a relatively cheap fix. It's definitely not the best or most practical folder I own but aesthetically I cant help but love it.
 
Interested to see what they say.

I wasn't too hopped up on ZT until I tried the 0630 and 0640's and found them to be fantastic knives. My oldest son carried an 0452CF for three years. It got beat on pretty good. Had it apart a while back and it was as good as new.
 
If it's a fake, it's a very good one. My only concern with authenticity is half the "U" and "SA" of "MADE IN USA" extending beyond the grind line. iirc, this lettering was typically a little tighter, closer to the spine & thumb stud above the grind. This looks like a later/higher serial # knife, so maybe ZT changed this from earlier knives? I sold my 0350 years ago, so don't have it to compare.. pics online support my memory, but again, it may just be a normal change..

Lockup looks a little earlier than I prefer, but is probably in spec. I agree with what others have said, reach out to ZT.. their CS dept has always been helpful in my experience

Edit to add - I just looked through the OP pics again and noticed the that the thumb ramp jimping doesn't mate especially well between the G10 scale & liner.. ZT quality is usually.. well, much better than that.. This may just be a Friday afternoon knife haha, but I'm seeing enough reason here in all the evidence presented to question authenticity. I'd definitely reach out to ZT and see what they say.
 
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After looking at woody68's 350 and the OP's, he might have a fake.

The markings on the OP's are off kilter, made in the USA, looks to big.

I would contact Kershaw, send pics and see what they say.
 
Yeah ill definitely update the thread when I hear back from them for the futute reference of others. I've seen confirmed real (or taking them at their word that they bought from an authorized retailer at least) 350s online that show the kinda crummy jimping, and I've def seen real ones with the style and spacing of lettering for the blade markings (as well as several other variations to keep it fun).

Might just be a pictures aren't enough to tell thing, which is wild to me. If Kai gets it and determines it's fake at least it's one less out there to annoy everyone else.
 
waffles860 said:
Yeah ill definitely update the thread when I hear back from them for the futute reference of others. I've seen confirmed real (or taking them at their word that they bought from an authorized retailer at least) 350s online that show the kinda crummy jimping, and I've def seen real ones with the style and spacing of lettering for the blade markings (as well as several other variations to keep it fun).

Might just be a pictures aren't enough to tell thing, which is wild to me. If Kai gets it and determines it's fake at least it's one less out there to annoy everyone else.
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Hope it's the real deal , and maybe Kai could get it lined out for for you , good luck 🤞
 
Mine looks differwnt as well. Serial number runs at a different angle. Mines as tight as it gets even after carry and use for i think 11 years?


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