Zt 0200 liners light rust

D

Dewberry

Joined
Feb 13, 2009
Messages
252
so i noticed some light rust on my 0200 liners today so i pulled it apart and took a look.
there is some light rust on the edges and the side that is pressed against the scale. its nothing to bad and i removed most of it with some steel wool.

i take pretty good care of my knives so if it ever gets wet its gets dried off but i live on the coast in Texas so its always in high humidity and I carry the knive in my pocket while working outside so im sweating and it gets exposed to even more moisture there.

do yall have any advice or suggestion on how to prevent this kind of rust?

i was thinking maybe paint them with a anti rust paint?
would that work or any other suggestion?
 
You can try wiping them down with Tuf Cloth, works really well. Or you can try Fluid Film, that stuff is amazing rust inhibitor stuff. ;)
 
I use Break-Free CLP but any oil or gun oil would work well.

Also, believe it or not Vaseline works too as far as protecting the metal. There are so many products out there you shouldn't have much trouble finding something.
 
I myself prefer flitz for rust removal which also helps prevent future rust. If there is not rust present and im just trying to protect the knife I use as mentioned Tuff Glide but in liquid form.
 
You can always spray some WD-40 in there every couple days. That works for me at least.
Very cheap and easy to apply.

-orangish ducktape
 
I keep the blades , liners etc coated with RemOil. It's not too oily , leaves a thin film
I'm live in a very humid area too and it seams to work on my knives
 
the reason im not just spraying them with oil or something similar to that is that most of the rust is happening between the metal liner and the handle scale, so i dont want to have to take the knife apart every couple days to reapply the oil. im looking for more permanent rust prevention. I was doing some research today and im considering parkerizing them. any thoughts, suggestions or alternative?
 
Any decent coating/paint will work if you just want to coat the liners between them and the scales. If you have a specific PH balance in your sweat, you'll be able to eat through just about anything (I sweat while carrying a S&W J-frame once and it ate the coating off of the exposed back-strap pretty badly).

So in actuality, it might be best to wash the sweat off of them and allow them to dry in front of a fan or something if you sweat heavily in them.
 
yeah a rattle can will probably get the job done but i think it could be kinda neat to have them parkerized

how is any paint or coating going to affect the bushing and the blade opening?

also im sure im going to have to remove any paint or coating from the face of the lock bar to not effect my lock up. any thoughts on this?
 
Boeshield T9 is a dry-on lube I love for these sort of applications. I've been using it maybe 2 years and only once had to reapply to a pivot. It'll last forever on the liners. It dries on as a wax coating. It's cheap for a bottle that's big enough you'll probably never use it up. I'm still on my first bottle not even a quarter down, and I use it on bicycles, also.

Note: If you do get it, put it on in a well ventilated area. When it's dry, it's odorless, but it gives me a headache if I smell it in close quarters while applying it.
 
Last edited:
RevDevil said:
You can try wiping them down with Tuf Cloth, works really well. Or you can try Fluid Film, that stuff is amazing rust inhibitor stuff. ;)
Click to expand...

+1
This stuff (and TUF-Glide for lube) has always worked very well for me in Florida which is like Vietnam without the charm with regards to humidity.
Good luck!
 
kreole said:
Boeshield T9 is a dry-on lube I love for these sort of applications. I've been using it maybe 2 years and only once had to reapply to a pivot. It'll last forever on the liners. It dries on as a wax coating. It's cheap for a bottle that's big enough you'll probably never use it up. I'm still on my first bottle not even a quarter down, and I use it on bicycles, also.

Note: If you do get it, put it on in a well ventilated area. When it's dry, it's odorless, but it gives me a headache if I smell it in close quarters while applying it.
Click to expand...

this might be what im looking for.
do you use the spray can or the "drip bottle"?
if you use the drip bottle do you apply it?
 
KLJTech said:
+1
This stuff (and TUF-Glide for lube) has always worked very well for me in Florida which is like Vietnam without the charm with regards to humidity.
Good luck!
Click to expand...

From a fellow Floridian, I agree with the Vietnam comparison, but not just because of the humidity! I use Tuff Cloth or liquid Tuff Glide myself. My knives have never rusted in the many years I've used this product.
 
Irminsul said:
From a fellow Floridian, I agree with the Vietnam comparison, but not just because of the humidity! I use Tuff Cloth or liquid Tuff Glide myself. My knives have never rusted in the many years I've used this product.
Click to expand...

I was trying to be nice. :D
I've also had great success with A.G. Russell's RustFree on blades that I'm putting away for a while...the Tuff Cloth is great and doesn't help to collect dirt/dust. Great products.
 
Dewberry said:
this might be what im looking for.
do you use the spray can or the "drip bottle"?
if you use the drip bottle do you apply it?
Click to expand...

I have the drip bottle and apply it to a q-tip. A few drops on one end of the q-tip will do the whole knife
 
Dewberry said:
once you have applied it and let it dry does it attract dirt? or more importantly pocket lint?
Click to expand...

It attracts neither, attracts nothing to be more precise. You leave it on for a few hours (I do pivot area for about 15 minutes), then clean off the excess, leaving it totally dry, and then it's just slick. I use it on my slipjoint and back lock knives' springs instead of a liquid one for that very reason, because it'll keep the rust away without collecting the various types of grime.
 
kreole said:
It attracts neither, attracts nothing to be more precise. You leave it on for a few hours (I do pivot area for about 15 minutes), then clean off the excess, leaving it totally dry, and then it's just slick. I use it on my slipjoint and back lock knives' springs instead of a liquid one for that very reason, because it'll keep the rust away without collecting the various types of grime.
Click to expand...

Here's some info: http://www.sentrysolutions.com/mm5/...SENTRY&Product_Code=91010&Category_Code=KNIFE
 
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