ZT 0560 love it...but hate the sticky lock

Joshua J. said:
Is there a difference between carbodizing, carbidizing, and heat treating? I know that you can harden or anneal Ti just like most metals, but then I've heard that you can get a carbide surface from just thermal cycling, and then apparently some people melt (solder) a carbide layer onto the lockface. How many processes are there and what exactly are they?
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I'm not a scientist, so I don't know. The "green forum" has a Strider section, if you're a member over there, you could ask.
 
The alcohols solvents that are in a sharpie may contribute to why a sharpie works to make the lock less sticky--its probably cleaning the surface of the lock face as its depositing the permanent ink. I don't have a sticky lock right now, but if some one reading this does, try substituting a q-tip dipped in alcohol and swap the lock face and blade tang and see if your lock works better. I'd be interested to know how that works.
 
Barry, coincidentally, I got a Kershaw Cryo yesterday that has a sticky lock. (My ZT's don't have this issue. :) ) I tried the pencil lead on it, and it did make it a bit easier. I cleaned it off with the alcohol and tried it some. What I found is that the machining on the end of the lock slab and the machining on the blade tang were getting "hung". I know the grooves are tiny, but I can feel when they "lock" into each other. The sharpie might have alcohol in it that helps to clean the surface, but after trying that, it appears that the ink dries and leaves the residue as a lubricant. (Same theory as the pencil lead/graphite)
 
wobly said:
Barry, coincidentally, I got a Kershaw Cryo yesterday that has a sticky lock. (My ZT's don't have this issue. :) ) I tried the pencil lead on it, and it did make it a bit easier. I cleaned it off with the alcohol and tried it some. What I found is that the machining on the end of the lock slab and the machining on the blade tang were getting "hung". I know the grooves are tiny, but I can feel when they "lock" into each other. The sharpie might have alcohol in it that helps to clean the surface, but after trying that, it appears that the ink dries and leaves the residue as a lubricant. (Same theory as the pencil lead/graphite)
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Thanks for doing that. I'll keep that in my bag of tricks next time I get a sticky lock.
 
Has something changed between the earlier models and the newer models? I'm hearing more and more about sticky locks or galling and have no idea why. I have several ZT and Kershaw frame locks, none of which are the least bit sticky. I've never had an issue with my 0560, flips great, locks up tight and zero blade play...smooth as butter. I did have a 0550 (never model) that had a terrible sticky lock. My new Cryo, just got yesterday, works great. It locks up tight and does not stick at all.
 
Alcohol does not leave any lubricating residue. If it did then no one would use it to clean electrical contacts on circuit boards.

If you have a sticking problem, some molybdenum paste will probably be more helpful than any of this voodoo.
 
Gotoh said:
Alcohol does not leave any lubricating residue. If it did then no one would use it to clean electrical contacts on circuit boards.

If you have a sticking problem, some molybdenum paste will probably be more helpful than any of this voodoo.
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"Voodoo"? Please explain. Cleaned surfaces probably won't gall as much as two surfaces that may have some oil or grease present. Hence the need for both surfaces to be cleaned with alcohol or acetone.
 
Update...the sharpie trick impresses me...it works, albeit temporary, but several applications seems to be the trick...probably enough to work out the rough surfaces naturally. This definitely seems to be the quick dirty way to solve the problem. If it starts up again...I will take it apart and simply polish the surfaces to permanently solve the prob.
 
Gotoh said:
Alcohol does not leave any lubricating residue. If it did then no one would use it to clean electrical contacts on circuit boards.

If you have a sticking problem, some molybdenum paste will probably be more helpful than any of this voodoo.
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I think you miss read Garry H's post. He was referring to the chemical contents of a sharpie. One of the contents is alcohol its doesn't leave a residue but one or more of the other contents does leave a residue that acts as the necessary lubricant for the stickiness of the two different metals.

If molybdenum past has any petroleum in it the sticky problem won't go away. Oils are one of the contributing factors of the stickiness.
 
2 shot said:
I think you miss read Garry H's post.
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That's not really difficult to do given the number of misspellings and grammatical errors.

2 shot said:
If molybdenum past has any petroleum in it the sticky problem won't go away. Oils are one of the contributing factors of the stickiness.
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So you've never used it, but you somehow know it won't work. This seems to be a running theme on this board full of people who buy knives they don't need just so they can take terrible pictures of them sitting on top of patio furniture and stained white carpets. Maybe you can explain to me why it's so frequently used to prevent seizing in firearms if it somehow causes metals to stick to one another? Feel free to draw your answer out with a Sharpie if you find that easier than typing.
 
^ Wow on your 3rd post and already tearing people apart....Don't see you being here long...And Barry H. is a great part of this Forum and I don't like the disrespect he is getting in this thread..
 
I can close this thread now and stop the insults. Or you all can remember Bladeforums version of the Golden Rule: discuss the knives, not each other.

There is no reason to treat each other with disrespect.
 
Two steel firearm components cannot be equated to a hardened steel blade vs (comparatively) soft Ti lock face. "Wet" lubricant (of ANY kind) does nothing to prevent sticking. The sticking is galling, which is only made worse by wet lubes.

Anti sieze lubes don't make a hill of beans in light of Ti galling against steel. Yes, people can say that a certain method won't work before trying it. You don't have to try it if there is prior knowledge and experience.

I know that I can't fuel my car with coca cola. Have I tried it? Nope. Do I know it won't work? Yep.


Gotoh said:
That's not really difficult to do given the number of misspellings and grammatical errors.



So you've never used it, but you somehow know it won't work. This seems to be a running theme on this board full of people who buy knives they don't need just so they can take terrible pictures of them sitting on top of patio furniture and stained white carpets. Maybe you can explain to me why it's so frequently used to prevent seizing in firearms if it somehow causes metals to stick to one another? Feel free to draw your answer out with a Sharpie if you find that easier than typing.
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