ZT 452 screw in framelock?

rschuch

rschuch

Joined
Apr 18, 2014
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Sorry if this has been explained elsewhere, but I can't find mention of it. I got a ZT 452CF recently and the detent was a bit stiff. I noticed there was a screw on the framelock right near where the detent is and I thought, "COOL! An adjustable detent!" and so I loosened it. It "seemed" better (I have a very active imagination) but it seemed to stick again later, so I loosened it some more. And then again. And then again, each time looking at the detent bump and seeing it oddly didn't look any smaller. SO, in the light of day I finally took a good look at what I was doing and discovered the screw was attached to....nothing. I wasn't adjusting anything, well...other than the tightness of the screw itself in the framelock.

So, what the heck is it doing there? Is it like the extra button on the bottom of a shirt so if one of the other screws fall out I have a spare? Or is it one of those, "How do you keep an idiot entertained for hours" gags? Much like my life, I thought I had some measure of control, but it was only an illusion.
 
If you are loosening the screw on the lockbar insert, you are going to have a bad time.
 
Those 0452's are very stiff detented and you must overcome the detent then, it's pow open in a flash. Get used to it, because everyone I've had is exactly the same.
 
What you loosened sounds like the screw that holds the lockbar insert in place. That's not going to adjust the detent, but may actually make lockup a bit worse.

If you really want to adjust the detent, you'll need to disassemble the knife, remove the lockbar insert, and very carefully bend the lockbar out, reducing the amount of force it applies to the blade when closed.

My recommendation is to let the knife wear in some more. Brand new, the detent ball will sometimes catch a little in the detent hole on the blade. After some use, it will get smoother. Another thing to try is to put a very small drop of oil in the detent hole.
 
I tightened it back up. And, yeah, I'll leave the detent as is, I'm not going to try and mess with it. There were a few times it seemed almost locked in place and was very difficult to open. I put some Two-in-one on it, but may put a dab of grease directly on the detent bump. I'm trying to open it now and it just seems stuck. It's not right.
What's the screw actually holding together? It looks like it's just going through a piece of metal (the lockbar) and not connecting anything. What would fall off if I took it out?
 
rschuch said:
I tightened it back up. And, yeah, I'll leave the detent as is, I'm not going to try and mess with it. There were a few times it seemed almost locked in place and was very difficult to open. I put some Two-in-one on it, but may put a dab of grease directly on the detent bump. I'm trying to open it now and it just seems stuck. It's not right.
What's the screw actually holding together? It looks like it's just going through a piece of metal (the lockbar) and not connecting anything. What would fall off if I took it out?
Click to expand...

The screw holds the titanium lockbar and the stainless steel insert together. The steel insert is what contacts your blade tang when your blade is deployed. Stainless steel on stainless steel wear evenly whereas titanium is softer will wear faster if it's stainless steel on titanium.
 
Something that seems to help is letting it rest in my hand sideways and fingering it like a lightswitch. What I might be doing wrong is, since it's a stiff detent, I'm gripping it tighter, which means my thumb is actually pressing harder on the framelock. Duh! By letting it rest sideways, I'm not gripping it between my thumb and middle finger and it seems to open easier. I have a CRKT Nirk Tighe which has a similar problem - because of the integrated construction, the whole frame flexes outward as you try the open it, so if you're gripping it tightly you make it difficult to open.
 
AH! Now that I look at it, I can see the stainless steel part about a 1/64" taller than the frame. Thank you! Question answered!
 
Like with most 'my detent is too stiff' situations, it's the user putting pressure on the lock bar.
 
Yup, you're probably putting pressure on the lock bar without actually realizing it. Just a simple readjustment and it should flip great, especially when you break it in. Also as said you were loosening the screw that holds the lock bar insert into the lock bar itself. You can't adjust the detent but a dab of your favorite lube will help with the release itself. Just keep playing with it and it'll work itself out in no time.
 
Oh no that screw is for the lock bar insert! Don't loosen that! As for a stiff detent you can easily remedy it for a framelock, all you need to do is first put pressure on the lock to wear in the detent track. After the knife breaks from the detent hole until it slips on the lock face right before the lock actually engages, just put pressure and work it back and forth a little. That will cut down friction during flipping. Next you want to pinch the spine of the blade and put pressure on the lock (just a little) and work the detent just past the break point on the closed position a handful of times. The little bit of pressure simulates the wear of breaking it in normally just accelerated. I have worn in a few dozen framelocks this way, and it never caused damage. If you need help on the exact process I could probably cobble together an instructional video for you. Just email me if you need more help.
 
when flipping it try to have your fingers all the way back behind the lockbar cutout and reach your index finger forward to grab the flipper and pull it straight back. I don't know if that description is good enough but keeping that in mind I can flip my 0452 easily hundreds of times without wearing out my hand. Pretty soon I'll make a thread with pictures detailing how to deploy the 0452cf reliably.
 
Well, that's two methods I can use now. I tried your technique and grabbed it between my palm and my pinkie and ring fingers down by the pocket clip and flipped the switch and it did fine.
 
What I do with mine is get my middle finger in the depression of the lock bar. If this is done, you cannot put pressure on the lock bar at all and it will flip beautifully!
If it's a newer knife, keep flipping it so it breaks in before trying to adjust anything.
Joe
 
palonej said:
What I do with mine is get my middle finger in the depression of the lock bar. If this is done, you cannot put pressure on the lock bar at all and it will flip beautifully!
If it's a newer knife, keep flipping it so it breaks in before trying to adjust anything.
Joe
Click to expand...

Putting your middle finger on the pocket clip works just as well too.

It's a good habit to get in because holding it that way requires less adjustment than if your middle finger is on the lockbar because you have to move it anyway to put your pointer there
 
Scurvy092 said:
Putting your middle finger on the pocket clip works just as well too.

It's a good habit to get in because holding it that way requires less adjustment than if your middle finger is on the lockbar because you have to move it anyway to put your pointer there
Click to expand...

Or maybe... Just maybe... His hands are sized different than yours, and that method works better for him.

Just a wild guess:)
 
I love how palonej makes almost the exact same comment in a seemingly helpful manner as well and yet I get the snarky comment. Then having palonej act like that snarky comment doesn't apply to his post as well is just icing on the cake.

Bravo you dunderheads.
 
Could be... I have smallish hands (I'm 5'6"). I just need to grip the knife a little lower than I'm used to. I have many other framelocks and so far, this is the only touchy one. I'm sure it'll loosen up eventually. I'm going to try the grease in a little bit. I use Mark Andy Press Grease. Anyone else ever use this stuff? I like it because it's clear.
 
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