PM2 loctite

Therom

Therom

Joined
Nov 13, 2013
Messages
2,479
Hello
I have purchased a set of micarta scales to put on my PM2 s110v but it seems the screw have been loctite
Have someone succeed in removing PM2 loctited screws with a hair dryer?

I don't have an iron , so if someone has some tips to solve this issue I will be glad to get them

Thanks you in advance for your help
 
hair dryer or heat gun. you are voiding your warranty by doing this btw.
 
Yes, a hair dryer should work. I've had a couple screws that needed to be SUPER hot before they would break free,so keep getting it hotter if it doesn't break free, don't strip it!
 
Worked for me without any heat on two different pm2s. Just need a good set of torx screwdrivers from both sides at the same time.
 
Trying running it under tap water just hot. Seems to produce same effect as hair dryer


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There have been some reports of red (permanent) loctite on some of the more recently made Spyderco knives. I have taken apart an older PM2 and it didn't have any but maybe yours does?

I personally wouldn't use a hair dryer or heat gun. You are going to be heating up much more of the knife than necessary and it's going to take a while for the heat to conduct it's way into the screw to soften the loctite. I've also read that loctite states the product needs to get between 200-300 deg F to soften the polymer after it cures which means you are going to have to get the knife quite hot. Some heat guns are also capable of getting very hot and I would imagine could burn the G10 after a bit of time blowing on it.

When I have done it I have used a soldering iron and placed it right on the screw head which allows the heat to go directly into the screw and concentrate the heat where it is needed to soften the loctite. If you don't have a soldering iron you could get a large nail or similar and place it in a torch or even on the stove to get really hot. Then place that on the screw head.

I haven't done it, but if I were worried about potentially getting something too hot or burning the G10, I would get a pot of water boiling and place the knife in simmering water only enough to cover the screw. Boiling water will only get to 212 deg F and will not get any hotter. If water (H2O) gets above 212 it undergoes a phase change and becomes a gas, aka steam. This would be a way that you can be certain you aren't getting your knife really hot. Also, people who dye their G10 scales usually get the water boiling before adding the dye and letting the scales soak so you can read about that if you still aren't sure about using boiling water.

You also want to make sure the Torx drivers you are using are a good tight fit and that they don't move around much when inserted in the screw. Most screws get damaged when the driver "cams out" which basically means under pressure it lifts itself out of the head until so little metal is in contact with each other that the pressure exceeds the shear strength of the screw head and tears the splines out and wallows the head out so a bit doesn't have anything to grip on to. So you want to make sure you are pushing the bit into the screw as you are turning it to help overcome the tendency to cam out. If you happen to have a drill press I can describe a way that will almost guarantee this doesn't happen which then makes the failure mode most likely the entire head of the screw shearing off which takes a lot more torque than just goofing up the splines in the head.

Good luck.
 
on my PM2's had to use a soldering iron,i had tried the hear dryer and still couldn't move the torx screws a bit,if you end using a iron! i would protect the scales with some foil as not to damage scales,it took me about 3 min. on the torx's screws,and use good torx-bits,hope you have grate luck.
 
I will try the dryer and if doesn't work I am good for looking for an iron
That really stupid from Spyderco to loctite the screws


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Therom said:
I will try the dryer and if doesn't work I am good for looking for an iron
That really stupid from Spyderco to loctite the screws.
Click to expand...

Not when their goal is to dissuade people from disassembling their products.
 
I used a hair dryer to loosen up the blue loctite on my s110v pm2 to send it in for a cerakote job. I had to let it blow for a decent amount of time until i could get them to turn. And remember it will get those screws pretty hot (hot enough that one burnt me). I would also recommend having 2 of the same size torx bit to back up the other side. I havent ran into the red loctite yet, but im sure with enough heat, any loctite would fail.

Someone would make a killing if they made some ti replacement screws for the pm2. All the stripped hardware produced from Spydercos loctite has created quite the demand for some. Plus everybody likes titanium upgrades.
 
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The red loctite on my new Yojimbo 2 broke free without heat, although I only did one side of the knife.
 
i had tried a 25watt soldering iron and that didnt work. you may need to try a better one than the cheap one.
 
I use a hair dryer exclusively to break loctite. Get it hot. Keep going. Let the heat penetrate the whole fastener to really break the bond. Don't just get the screw head hot and try. I will get it hot. Let sit for a minute or two to let the heat "soak in" then I'll heat again and have a go with the torx.
 
Another method is to heat some water in a pan, dunk the knife in the hot water for a few min. Then use a good torx driver to loosen the screws.
 
I have tried the iron and other heating options but I finally completely screwed up my PM2 :(

Really sad Spyderco used permanent loctite
I can understand the void warranty thing but blocking any maintenance or custom for those who don't care about warranty is just bad

I was used to like Spyderco but after this issue I have no words to tell how disappointed I am



Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
 
Therom said:
I have tried the iron and other heating options but I finally completely screwed up my PM2 :(

Really sad Spyderco used permanent loctite
I can understand the void warranty thing but blocking any maintenance or custom for those who don't care about warranty is just bad

I was used to like Spyderco but after this issue I have no words to tell how disappointed I am



Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear of your issues. I have been there with small screws being Loctite killed. Do not give up though. What I used after breaking and stripping these small screws is a left drill bit and easy out. The left direction bit actually worked on one of them and extracted the screw while drilling the hole. The other screw came out with the easy out. This is what I used http://www.sears.com/craftsman-7-pc-drill-out-screw-out-power-extractors/p-00952157000P?rrec=true but there are many like it out there. I would pay extra for the good stuff. The cheap kits out there might break and cause even more problems. The key when doing this is a dead center starting hole.
 
Therom said:
I have tried the iron and other heating options but I finally completely screwed up my PM2 :(

Really sad Spyderco used permanent loctite
I can understand the void warranty thing but blocking any maintenance or custom for those who don't care about warranty is just bad

I was used to like Spyderco but after this issue I have no words to tell how disappointed I am



Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
Click to expand...

why don't you tell Sal here
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1465153-SAL-you-may-want-to-check-on-this-ASAP

his answer why is in that thread
 
I am willing to send you brand new screws if Spyderco doesn't. It's like 10 Canadian for shipping. They are silver. I got them from Spyderco. E-mail me. You look pretty sad in your avatar lol
 
Therom said:
I have tried the iron and other heating options but I finally completely screwed up my PM2 :(

Really sad Spyderco used permanent loctite
I can understand the void warranty thing but blocking any maintenance or custom for those who don't care about warranty is just bad

I was used to like Spyderco but after this issue I have no words to tell how disappointed I am
Click to expand...

Really sad you tried to modify your knife w/o the necessary skills or tools. I am sure Spyderco's professional cutlers can take apart a PM-2, but then they have the correct tools, procedures, and they are trained/experienced.
 
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