PM2 loctite

[Therom]

Really sad you tried to modify your knife w/o the necessary skills or tools. I am sure Spyderco's professional cutlers can take apart a PM-2, but then they have the correct tools, procedures, and they are trained/experienced.

Yes for sure

Just sad they didn't help in assembling the knife a different way


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[HAWC]

Personally never had an issue with a decent set of torx... I always place the knife on a flat surface (table for example). I grasp the knife with my left hand, and press the torx down firmly while I turn to loosen with the right. I never bother with heating even my PM2 with red loctite. Sorry to hear it did not go well!

 

[Therom]

Never had a issue with my first PM2, but definitively not as lucky with the 2nd one
I will have to save some cash to get a new one


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[mgover13]

Just got my M390 PM2 Bentobox exclusive, and i have my Flytanium scales all teed up to go... having been down this road before, i didn't even attempt to break the Loctite until after boiling the shit out of the knife..
RED LOCTITE in there no doubt about it, i can not break these bastards... gonna try the soldering iron. These things feel welded together....smh

 

[Fred Sanford]

I have 12 Para 2's and I have never once needed to use heat to take any of them apart. Ever. Out of the 12, I have had 8 of them apart entirely.

Why is it that only recently people are having problems with screws on Spydies? I've been at this for the last 12 years and have never once had to use heat on a Spyderco to disassemble it. I have probably owned close to 150 different Spydies over the years and I bet I've had at least 1/4 of them apart. Sure, I have messed up some screws but when I did, I knew what to do to remove the screw to replace it.

Is Spyderco doing something differently or are we just seeing a lot of new people that don't know what they are doing? Honest question.

 

[FK]

Apparently, beginning with the PM2 M4 blade, Spyderco started using Red Loctite grade 262.
Numerous people had problems with stripped screw heads and some part of that is poor quality torx driver bits.
Hair dryer is hit or miss,, most reliable is soldering iron tip into screw head.

Many of the new S110V PM2 knives continue to be shipped with Blue Loctite grade 243.

It is hard to determine which Loctite product is in your individual knife.

Regards,
FK

 

[madcap_magician]

Really sad you tried to modify your knife w/o the necessary skills or tools. I am sure Spyderco's professional cutlers can take apart a PM-2, but then they have the correct tools, procedures, and they are trained/experienced.

I am almost always on Sal's side, but I do draw the line on clip screws. Why have a four-position reversible clip at all if you're just going to red loctite the clip into place? Plus the model drawing the most complaints is the PM2... probably because it comes set up for tip down carry even though most people carry tip up.

 

[zozo]

My Sage 5 came loctited to hell and back on the clip screws. I'm a lefty, so what are you gonna do? Never had clip screws loctited before. It came out, but it bent my torx bit and left some very sharp edges on the screw. Now the screw scratches everything I set it on, including my hand. Is there a way to get new clip screws?

 

[Fred Sanford]

My Sage 5 came loctited to hell and back on the clip screws. I'm a lefty, so what are you gonna do? Never had clip screws loctited before. It came out, but it bent my torx bit and left some very sharp edges on the screw. Now the screw scratches everything I set it on, including my hand. Is there a way to get new clip screws?

I have had what you're talking about happen to a few clip screws here and there. I just take a small fine grit piece of sand paper or even a nail file and run it over the screw that scratches stuff.

 

[Spydergirl88]

I have 12 Para 2's and I have never once needed to use heat to take any of them apart. Ever. Out of the 12, I have had 8 of them apart entirely.

Why is it that only recently people are having problems with screws on Spydies? I've been at this for the last 12 years and have never once had to use heat on a Spyderco to disassemble it. I have probably owned close to 150 different Spydies over the years and I bet I've had at least 1/4 of them apart. Sure, I have messed up some screws but when I did, I knew what to do to remove the screw to replace it.

Is Spyderco doing something differently or are we just seeing a lot of new people that don't know what they are doing? Honest question.

I took my cruwear pm2 apart tonight to put new scales on and used a soldering iron first because i know all the new pm2s use red loctite. Despite the heat and using wiha torx bits it still chewed up the screws a little bit. Cant imagine what it would have been like with cheap/soft torx bits and no heat.

 

[mgover13]

Went through the standard dog shit Lowes and Home Depot bits years ago, graduated to thinking Craftmans would be better(maybe marginally) to using Wiha... I've stripped screws over bad bits, this is 100% NOT the case here, we are talking a ton of red Loctite in the pivot. The body screws came out with boiling. Some pm2's i've owned are easy. The S35V and M390 are friggin welded together...both Bentobox

 

[Therom]

My personal experience with loctite in production is that it is a hell to make sure operators use the right one on the right position
Unless you I've to deal with functional constraints you better have to use the same on everything....
From both a customer point of view and a production point of view I am not following Spyderco on this
There is no sense their warranty limitations interfere with their production process

 

[Stays Sharp]

I have 12 Para 2's and I have never once needed to use heat to take any of them apart. Ever. Out of the 12, I have had 8 of them apart entirely.

Is Spyderco doing something differently or are we just seeing a lot of new people that don't know what they are doing? Honest question.

They started using red loctite at least on PM2's early last year brother.

I mangled my beautiful CF m4 PM2 screws, unaware that it was red loctited on.

NOW, I got my user Cruwear sprint develop a miniscule amount of bladeplay that drives me nuts and I really am not in the mood to play around with the damn screws. The hell am supposed to do now, mail it in? That's rhetorical btw... Obviously sooer or later I'll have to boil the damn knife or heat solder or hammer it loose.

 

[Stays Sharp]

I read on the Spyderco.com forum that the warranty department "Charlynn" uses a mallet/hammer to knock the red threadlock loose and it works for her.

 

[Armadew]

I am almost always on Sal's side, but I do draw the line on clip screws. Why have a four-position reversible clip at all if you're just going to red loctite the clip into place? Plus the model drawing the most complaints is the PM2... probably because it comes set up for tip down carry even though most people carry tip up.

I would have to agree with this. I don't mind that they use red locktite on the body screws, but pocket clips and pivot should be left alone, or at the most just blue.

 

[Fred Sanford]

Apparently, beginning with the PM2 M4 blade, Spyderco started using Red Loctite grade 262.
Numerous people had problems with stripped screw heads and some part of that is poor quality torx driver bits.
Hair dryer is hit or miss,, most reliable is soldering iron tip into screw head.

Many of the new S110V PM2 knives continue to be shipped with Blue Loctite grade 243.

It is hard to determine which Loctite product is in your individual knife.

Regards,
FK

They started using red loctite at least on PM2's early last year brother.

I mangled my beautiful CF m4 PM2 screws, unaware that it was red loctited on.

NOW, I got my user Cruwear sprint develop a miniscule amount of bladeplay that drives me nuts and I really am not in the mood to play around with the damn screws. The hell am supposed to do now, mail it in? That's rhetorical btw... Obviously sooer or later I'll have to boil the damn knife or heat solder or hammer it loose.

Thanks to you both. I didn't realize they started doing this.

 

[A.P.F.]

This has been a very informative thread! Thanks to all who posted.

 

[AlwaysTomboy]

I sent my Jade PM2 to Spyderco for disassembly and cleaning recently because I managed to get dirt and rust around the pivot and between the liners and scales and red loctite (I assume) meant I could only partially disassemble it. I was able to remove the scale screws from one side and the pivot screw from the other side, so this is as close to disassembled as I could get it using a heat gun.

Here's what the outside looked like, but without being able to separate the liners from the scales, I couldn't do anything about all of that gunk under there.

& I'm not confident in my hand steadiness enough to try a soldering iron so close to those pretty natural G-10 scales, so off to Spyderco it went with a letter explaining what I wanted done, disclosing my partial disassembly, and with payment enclosed to cover the disassembly fee and return shipping.

In the interest of full disclosure, when I got it back, it didn't look much different, although different screws were stuck so it seemed as though it had been disassembled and reassembled.

I emailed customer support & Charlynn was totally awesome. She confirmed that the work order specified to disassemble, clean, and replace screws and washers, and she sent me a prepaid label to send it back for them to take another go at it.

I included a note in the box explaining the situation, and also I also politely requested that if at all possible, I'd like it reassembled without red loctite.

The folks at Spyderco did an awesome job cleaning it up this time, but better than that, I tentatively tested all of the screws and was able to loosen them all with hand strength alone. No sign of any red loctite.

I can only speak to my experience (and sorry for the long-winded story before getting to the point), but if you end up in a situation where you have to send your knife in for work that require disassembly, it might be worth politely asking if they'll reassemble it without red loctite.

This is the first time I've had to utilize Spyderco's customer service for anything more than purchasing pocket clips, and I felt a little silly sending it in just for cleaning when nothing was actually broken, but I'm glad I did. The disassembly fee and a couple of weeks without my knife was money and time well spent for me to avoid the frustration of stripped screws & other damage.

 

[FK]

AlwaysTomboy,

Great photos and story,,, thanks for posting.

Regards,
FK

 

[Mo2]

if spyderco could make an elite series that doesn't come with any locktite that would be awesome, or make the normal line of knives without locktite and then make a "Working Man's" series that comes with locktite that would be great. cause I want to avoid the red locktite. makes me not want to invest into a spyderco because of that. makes knives worse for me

will spyderco replace all my locktite screws with zero locktite screws if I send it in? is there a charge for it? if not they are leaving a lot of people high and dry here and its ugly.