Sharpening a 3" Slicer - Let's talk about angles

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I spoke to Clay today. What a nice guy! Extremely helpful and I enjoyed talking to him. Seems the only way I am going to be able to remedy this problem is to put the blade into the clamp with just the tiniest bit of the blade in the clamp. Then allow the stones to basically remove the metal coating from the clamps and maybe some of the metal until the stones can reach the blade. Since I don't want to do this Clay was very amenable to me just sending in the F&S base and arms and he is going to send me the Pro base and arms. I'm keeping the stones that have started breaking in nicely. I have a big 2" thick maple cutting board lying around that I used for stereo components and I'll turn that into a base. So all is well. People should just be aware that the Field and Sport model does have this drawback for knives with very short blades if you want 22 degrees or less.
 
Birdhunter1220 said:
I seldom have to go below 800 when I am touching up my xm's. I think you will love the wet/dry paper. I have 1500/2000/2500 it puts a nice mirror finish. I am looking for 3000 or higher. Best place to get it I have found is auto paint supply houses. Good luck and show some pictures when you are done.
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You will be able to preserve much more steel by touching up with a leather strop for a few times & when the strop no longer brings it back to razor sharp go ahead & use the stones to either put a microbevel on it or completely resharpen.

You can get 3000 grit & much higher if you get the 3M lapping tape & blank paddles
 
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In sharpening ANY high quality EDC - IMO take a conservative approach. Get the edge as sharp as it "needs to be" to accomplish the tasks you need it to perform. Steel can not be put back. There is simply no need for these radical reprofiles down to 24*-30* inclusive, not when a properly prepared 22*-24* per side gets the job done. IF you need to split a hair and a Lawyer or Politician isn't available just get a razor blade or go find a TV Camera.
As mentioned, Stropping is a GREAT way to maintain an edge. Keep it sharp without letting it get to far out of whack and life is good.
 
We are talking about a slicer here. A dedicated cutting knife. I'm still testing my 14 degree inclusive with 19 degree inclusive microbevel EDC. So far it has sustained no damage during cutting, though it did get a ding when I dropped it.

24 degrees per side is approaching a cold chisel, which is fine if that's what's required. But that's not in the realm of what I call a "slicer". EDC knives get sharpened for the most demanding task regularly encountered, which for me requires a very sharp edge, capable of catching the hair on the back of my head well above the scalp. Thinner edges cut better/easier. 15/side is not "radical". If the user thinks this will make the edge bevel appear too wide, don't do it. I'm just advocating the most efficient slicing edge, and given I can chop light metal with a 20 degree per side edge on 1055 carbon steel, I'd hope a dedicated slicer with much more expensive steel could go considerably lower. But, it's the OP's knife, and if he/she doesn't want a really wide bevel, then keep it where it is. My chopper has a bevel less than 1/16" wide, and my test EDC is about 3/32" wide.
 
Wow!!!! 14 inclusive? That's a serious slicer!! What type of steel?
 
Maprik said:
Wow!!!! 14 inclusive? That's a serious slicer!! What type of steel?
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With the thickness of the blade behind the bevel of an XM spanto, I am afraid 14 inclusive would result in your XM being declared a regrind.

:)
 
Japanese mystery stainless from Parker Cutlery. The primary bevel on my Delica is somewhere around 5 degrees per side. I'm not suggesting that every knife should be ground that low for its cutting angle. All I'm trying to do is get people to think and realize that, for the tasks described, 22 degrees per side is pretty obtuse, and nearly any steel should be able to handle shallower angles. I've batoned thinner edge angles than 30° inclusive with steels harder than HRc 64. If the user is happy with 22° per side, then thats fine, but he did ask. Its a lot of work to rebevel something like a Hinderer, and not worth it for many.
 
Thanks Me2. You have indeed addressed my original question regarding whether these super steels can handle "extreme" angles, especially if the knife is a dedicated slicer of paper, rope, plastic bags, cardboard... I've learned that it's really possible but maybe not necessary. Time will tell as I have now acquired the ability to sharpen and with that the confidence to use my knife more (yes, I am guilty of knife use avoidance prior to learning how to sharpen). I am going to try 40 inclusive.
 
While a mirror polished 1*/ side edge might split hairs on a gnat's booty, it does me little good. If I'm "out", I'm not carring a sharpening system in my pocket that will keep that edge. I'm much more likely to be wearing leather on a boot, sheath, etc. or have other materials around. I find that much less touch-up is needed on my obtuse working edges than on a beautiful more show than go fine edge.

To each his own, I fully support them all!
 
Again, dont think Im advocating 10 dps angles on everything. Also, in the name of full disclosure, I dont actually think the "super steels" will handle such low angles as well as more conventional steels chosen from a select group. I have an s30v blade I plan to try this theory out on by incrementally stepping down the edge angle until it starts failing. I just have to take the thumb studs off first.
 
Keep us informed me2. Your research is valuable and of benefit to us all!
 
Just wanted to post an obviously irrelevant pic of my 24* per/side 6 month EDC "Cold chisel". Gosh, I wish this thing was "Sharp":rolleyes:
20120917_193913.jpg

Oh. BTW it's a 3" Slicer
 
RubiconSS said:
Just wanted to post an obviously irrelevant pic of my 24* per/side 6 month EDC "Cold chisel". Gosh, I wish this thing was "Sharp":rolleyes:
20120917_193913.jpg

Oh. BTW it's a 3" Slicer
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Sweet!

Slices as shown and can still be stabbed into things that destroy many other edges.
 
Need2Know said:
Sweet!

Slices as shown and can still be stabbed into things that destroy many other edges.
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Yes, In the last 6 months I have stabbed many a Coke can lid, Beer can lid, Coffee lid, Combat Plastic, Cut rope, Trimmed old tire, Cut Monster Zip-Ties, Cleaned small game, the list goes on.
Imagine what I could have done IF it was Sharp! Boggles the Mind.
 
The OP wanted to discuss edge angles for relatively light use. All I did was offer options for his/her consideration. You seem to be taking this as though I'm saying you're wrong. You can sharpen it however you need. For slicing paper and shaving hair, the angle range is huge. Someone has already said they can whittle hair at 27°\side. I'd say that makes your angle a little thin for the items in the picture.

N2K, what kinds of things are you stabbing? I already know my chopper will take chopping into light metal with an edge slightly less than 20°\side.
 
Thanks for sacrificing many hairs for that demonstration! Doesn't your chest look a little funny now? :p
 
You may want to read the OP post again. This is a Hinderer Forum, a Tactical knife. The items the OP mentioned as his normal everyday cutting fare has been addressed. I do not "assume" anything about what someones intent is.
Sharpening is a sub-hobby to the knife hobby and as with most hobbies the lines of reason become blurred over time caused by the natural pushing of the envelope.
The voice of experience and reason brings us all back in line if our ear is open.
I said it and will repeat, the "need" for acute sharpening angles on a Hinderer (or any hard use tacticlal) while possible - are simply NOT appropriate.
Buy one and do with it what you choose BUT as for imparting sharpening methodology on a knife you may or may not own and use and can comment based on experince ..... it is moot.
As for Choppers, bayonets, machetes or whatever.... has no bearing.
What the Op does or what anybody does with their personal knife is their business BUT IF someone wants to know what is the best thing to do with a Hinderer / Tactical Folder/ Hard Use Knife - Sharpen it just enough to accomplish your needs, DO NOT take off more steel than you need to, just because you can does not mean you should. Strop or maintain in a minimalistic fashion regularly before the edge gets so out of spec that you need to go hard with the sharpener of your choice and finally - when in doubt send it back to the Ranch and see how it comes back.
IF it comes back with a 22*-30* degree inclusive bevel - I will send you a check and you can keep the knife.
 
me2 said:
The OP wanted to discuss edge angles for relatively light use. All I did was offer options for his/her consideration. You seem to be taking this as though I'm saying you're wrong. You can sharpen it however you need. For slicing paper and shaving hair, the angle range is huge. Someone has already said they can whittle hair at 27°\side. I'd say that makes your angle a little thin for the items in the picture.

N2K, what kinds of things are you stabbing? I already know my chopper will take chopping into light metal with an edge slightly less than 20°\side.
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Not so much stabbing....it cut right in and cut with surprisingly little effort around the can..

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And still slices newspaper...

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And I already said...there is no wrong...rock whatever edge you want. But super steep is not necessary.
 
I like the phrase, "You can take the metal off but you can't put it back on". On a Hinderer, that makes a big difference. On a cheaper knife I wouldn't care so much but Hinderer metal is a precious commodity to me.
 
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