Who else uses a scythe?

Now a metallurgy question! These blades are tempered quite soft right? I seem to be having trouble making it "razor" sharp. I should probably go at it with a file until its burred heavily and then attack it with a ceramic rod to establish an edge in the first place. I think my "maintenance" was on an edge that wasn't truly that sharp to begin with...
 
European style blades are soft because they are work-hardened by peening the edge and then honed. American blades are more of a cutlery-grade steel and heat treatment, and don't generally take well to peening. Both styles can--and SHOULD--be kept blazingly sharp, but often vintage blades are found in relatively poor shape. Seems a lot of people like trying their hands at playing around with antique scythes and discover they make a poor golf club or shovel, if you know what I mean. :p
 
I just haven't been able to get a feel for this type of metal yet. It seems to burr differently than other tools (axes, knives and machetes). Most of the time if I get a burr on an axe for example, I just remove the burr on the opposite side, lightly hone again and strop. With the scythe, it doesn't seem super keen (which is what I'm after) with this process, despite using files, a fine grit scythe stone and even a softwood strop planed to fit the curve of the blade. It's bamboozling!
 
We have a newer metal handled one at work that I've only used occasionally. It needs a sharpening pretty bad but I like to swing it around some when I'm in no mood to run the weed eater. Maybe I'll sharpen it tomorrow, the ragweed and goldenrod are calling me.

BTW, down in Tennessee I've heard them called a "Lively Lad". :)
 
G-pig said:
I just haven't been able to get a feel for this type of metal yet. It seems to burr differently than other tools (axes, knives and machetes). Most of the time if I get a burr on an axe for example, I just remove the burr on the opposite side, lightly hone again and strop. With the scythe, it doesn't seem super keen (which is what I'm after) with this process, despite using files, a fine grit scythe stone and even a softwood strop planed to fit the curve of the blade. It's bamboozling!
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It could always be that your blade is of an economy variety. Not all scythe blades were created equal, even back in the good ol' days! I might try running the edge over a block of wood after putting a wire edge on it to remove the wire, then try going through your finishing process. If it doesn't seem sharp after that, just give it a try on some tall grass anyway and see how it does. Sometimes edges can be deceiving to the thumb.

hoopster said:
We have a newer metal handled one at work that I've only used occasionally. It needs a sharpening pretty bad but I like to swing it around some when I'm in no mood to run the weed eater. Maybe I'll sharpen it tomorrow, the ragweed and goldenrod are calling me.

BTW, down in Tennessee I've heard them called a "Lively Lad". :)
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I like that nickname! It's amazing what the difference between a sharpened scythe and a dull one will do. Dull ones end up forcing you to "golf club" your swing rather than the gentle pulling arc you can affect with a keen one. :thumbup:
 
I found that burring it with a file and than using a small ceramic rod put that hella sharp edge I was trying to get. The scythe stone just doesn't cut the metal the same way. I took it out and cut some grass and it was much more effortless, just swiped the grass right off. Problem solved :D (sorry for no pics yet, my camera is dying. I will get pics soon)
 
Awesome--not all scythes and stones are compatible from what I've heard. Just gotta' find out what works and you're good to go! :cool::thumbup:
 
Wowzerz. No doubt about it now, the blade has definitely been altered somehow. I took it out mowing and found myself re-honing ever 5 or 10 minutes- way more than I should be. Later on, the point took a dive into the ground and the snath carried up and over. The blade took a pretty serious bend. This, coupled with the edge issues clarifies things for me. My brothers scythe held its edge about 5 times longer, I only had to touch that scythe up once in about 3 hours.
 
Yup--chances are it got heated up at some point for some unknown reason. I know that there's something of an old time myth about steel losing its temper with age, so maybe someone tried to "remedy" that. Good thing scythe blades aren't too hard to come by still. :eek:

I can tell you that the blade I've been using has gone through over six hours of use and would still cut cleanly until I "discovered" an old fencing wire with the edge and had to touch it up. :p
 
Using a scythe blade weighing less than a pound, on a homemade willow snath, to cut tree branches:

[video=youtube;UtZBR_J28RY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=UtZBR_J28RY[/video]

From the maker's commentary:
"Is this a joke?? Not quite. The clip is meant as a satire..."
 
The key is just to make sure you use a shearing stroke so you don't damage the blade or the snath! But as shown in the video, it certainly can be done. :D
 
Pics, sorry for the delay.

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Attachment, it's worked great.

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Looks great! To help snug up the attachment try sticking a piece of scrap leather or rubber in between the tang and the U bolt. Helps keep everything locked tight after extended use. :cool::thumbup:
 
Have and use a European scythe from http://www.scythesupply.com/ in Maine. I started on an American scythe when I worked at a historical museum (Old Sturbridge Village). The cost for Euro-style one was worth it as they are well made and fit to your measurements.
 
Bumpity bump.

Picked this up off of craigslist today. $5. Needs some attention for sure, but everything seems to be sound.

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Stamped "Austria"
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Looks like an old Seymour snath. I imagine their current replacement nibs would still fit that one. Just use a wire brush to clean up the rusty fittings and then soak the crap out of them with penetrating oil to loosen it all up and get moving parts working again. You'll also want to oil the crap out of the snath so it won't be so brittle from having dried out. Nice snag though--that blade looks to have a very nice shape to it!
 
I spent the fall playing with scythes, got a sweet little 12" brush blade for my American scythe. That thing eats reeds/goldenrod/small trees like candy. A neighbor of mine also dropped by with his euro scythe lamenting my "obsolete" American scythe. I tried it, and frankly hated it. Too light, I felt like I was doing twice as much work and if I took any off the swing it would stop cutting. The heavier tool does more work if you know how to use it. The only advantage the euro had was in short grass, but since I do not employ that method of grass maintenance I don't care for them.
 
European scythes are great for European grasses and terrain. American scythes are great for American grasses and terrain. Big shocker, huh? :D:D:D:thumbup:
 
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