1080 vs 1084 any difference?

Maxim is who I used as well. Maybe $126 delivered. Can’t remember the lady’s name, but she’ll know exactly what you’re talking about if you tell them it’s for knives.

P50 is one of those things that is pricey for a new maker, but you’ll be so glad you bought it.
 
Not to confuse things, but McMaster Carr 11 second oil ( https://www.mcmaster.com/#quenching-oil/=1c3642y ) is a reasonable quenchant for deep hardening steels when you are new to the knife game, and you can get a gallon for ~$20 bucks plus shipping. With a gallon of that, some heat, and some deep hardening steel (e.g. 5160/Cruforge V/O1/etc.) you can make a lot of knives. Personally, I've successfully quenched 5160, O1, and 80CRV2 in 11 second. The downside seems to be that it leaves a thick coating on the steel, unlike Parks50 (which I have too).

Mike
 
what about quenching a thin blade in P50? I know that I've read on a thread or two something about thinner 1095 blades cracking if the are quenched in P50.
 
I have had problems with underhardening with 80CRV2. I kindahave been leaning towards the fact that maybe I need to normalize before hardening. Is it a possibility that my canola isn't fast enough? I had always understood 80CRV2 to be just a improved 1084. Does it need to be treated differently?
 
skillgannon said:
I have had problems with underhardening with 80CRV2. I kindahave been leaning towards the fact that maybe I need to normalize before hardening. Is it a possibility that my canola isn't fast enough? I had always understood 80CRV2 to be just a improved 1084. Does it need to be treated differently?
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From what I have just read on this thread. You need to get some P50 quenchant. Although I'm new here, so I could be wrong. That's just what I was told.
 
Alec Wachtman said:
what about quenching a thin blade in P50? I know that I've read on a thread or two something about thinner 1095 blades cracking if the are quenched in P50.
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It's a possibility. I have not encountered it, even quenching .075" thick kitchen knives. If it is a problem it can likely be resolved with how the blade is ground prior to quenching.


skillgannon said:
I have had problems with underhardening with 80CRV2. I kindahave been leaning towards the fact that maybe I need to normalize before hardening. Is it a possibility that my canola isn't fast enough? I had always understood 80CRV2 to be just a improved 1084. Does it need to be treated differently?
Click to expand...

My experience with this steel is that if it came from NJSB, it must be normalized and thermal cycled before quenching, and if it came from AKS, it is already fine grained and can be quenched as it's delivered.
 
does 80CRV2 require a soak time? I know that one person mentioned a soak time on a different thread. And if it does, would I be better off just ordering 1084 and P50 instead?
 
kuraki said:
It's a possibility. I have not encountered it, even quenching .075" thick kitchen knives. If it is a problem it can likely be resolved with how the blade is ground prior to quenching.




My experience with this steel is that if it came from NJSB, it must be normalized and thermal cycled before quenching, and if it came from AKS, it is already fine grained and can be quenched as it's delivered.
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You just confirmed what I have been thinking. Thanks John. Last time I used it I tried thermo cycling for the first time and saw a big improvement but not as good as it should be. I need to practice it
 
S skillgannon The most important step is the first normalizing one. You need to hit 1600-1650 (I don't recall exactly) and hold it for a short time to get the balled up alloying elements into solution. Everything after that is grain refinement.
 
Alec Wachtman said:
does 80CRV2 require a soak time? I know that one person mentioned a soak time on a different thread. And if it does, would I be better off just ordering 1084 and P50 instead?
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Um, I hate to be pushy on this.... But I would really like to know. I'm about to place an order....
 
Yes. It may be minimal in comparison to more complex steels but it does in my opinion and experience require some amount of soak to reach maximum potential. Something you'll be able to achieve with practice in a forge. 1084 does not. I'd be inclined to buy both at the same time to save shipping and only use the 1084 until you feel comfortable holding 80CRV2 at aus temp for a few minutes prior to quenching.
 
If you are planning to order 1080 & 1084 from AKS you might want to create an account so you can log in and read the Heat Treats for both blade steels. As Kuraki suggested purchase both you can pick the one that works best for you as you get better familiar with the steels. Using a forge to heat treat initially is going to take a bit of practice with either material until you can easily judge by eye/magnet and adjusting soak times to get best results. Don't expect Magical Results even the best have been fooled.
 
Alec Wachtman said:
what about quenching a thin blade in P50? I know that I've read on a thread or two something about thinner 1095 blades cracking if the are quenched in P50.
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I quench .064 thick 15n20 in p50 all the time, no problem.
Another benefit is you don't need to pre heat it, unless it's below 50 degrees out.
 
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