1080 Woodlore Clone WIP (Work in Progress)

Mooseyard said:
Is the file attached to the rod in your jig, or is it just resting against the top of the file and used as guide?
Click to expand...

I have found that I can hold the file with my hands, one at each end of the file. This keeps the file against the guide rod.
 
Today I spent 6 hours working by hand on the woodlore clone with files.

It is a good way to learn beacuse the process is slow. The garage was cold, so the steady work kept me very warm.

To start, here is a pic of the jig I made to help me profile the bevel with a file.

Woodlore20.jpg


I used a coarse file and filed down to the center line, letting the jig guide the file.

Woodlore20b.jpg


Using hole # 11 gave a very wide angle as the first cut into the edge of the blade. I read somewhere else that the process is now walking the gind back toward the spine of the blade.

Woodlore21.jpg


After I repeated this for the other side, I marked the edge of the filed grind with a marker and moved the jig rod down to # 8

Woodlore22.jpg


Each time I dropped the rod into a lower hole, and re-filed the blade, the shoulder of the grind went closer to the spine.

Woodlore23.jpg


The next pic shows the state of the blade after file work from possition #6. The coarse file really ate into the steel.

Woodlore24.jpg


I started to really like the look of the way the blade was taking shape at this step. But I found that because the bar stock was 3/16" wide the angle of the blade was over 20 degrees at this stage. This was far too wide for my tastes. More filing would be needed...

Woodlore25.jpg


I didn't take pics of every step along the way. I think you get the idea how I worked with the file. Eventually I was down to hole # 3 and the angle was close to 12 -13 degrees.

Woodlore26.jpg


I started to refine the swage edge, or false edge on the top of the spine. Not sure why I did this. I guess I wanted to try it and see what difference it would make.

Woodlore27.jpg


You can see the difference it made in the top profile of the point.

Woodlore28.jpg


This is what it looks like after a day's work with files and 220 grit sandpaper.

Woodlore30.jpg


Things I learned: a flat grind to the spine is almost a necessity if the bar stock is 3/16" and you want to end up with a shallow blade angle.

Files can really tear into annealed steel. If I didn't card the file often, even a medium bastard file will pick up a stray piece of steel filings and gouge the blade surface.

220 paper can take some of the gouges out but not all of them

Woodlore29.jpg


Had a great day discovering a new ability and starting a new skill.

Thanks for checking in.

Luke DeBee
 
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Chalking your files will keep them from clogging with shavings and gouging your bevel. I had tried everything, carding, positive air, negative air, and everything else I could think of to keep it from happening. Then I someone told me to load the file with chalk (sorry I can't remember who it was, because I have gotten so many good suggestions here) so I went to the dollar store and bought some, suddenly no more gouges in my bevels.
 
3/16 is indeed on the thick side for handy knife like that. But it will sure be strong. Think about tapering the tang or at least drilling a few more holes in it to reduce weight. Consider a full distal taper on the blade, too. A 3/16" spine can be surprisingly nimble and well-balanced if it's properly tapered, and still a good strong workhorse. Kind of a hydrid between the racer and Clydesdale mentioned earlier.

I like your mock-up of the scales; that's the way to judge if it will feel right when you're done.

Chalk is good. Draw-filing with a much finer file before going to 220 paper will save time and help you keep things flat. You can remove steel with draw-filing almost as fast as with a grinder, with less chance of goofs.

Keep at it, you're doing very well :)
 
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