There is a variant of silver steel from Ground Flat Stock in England (GFS knife supplies) that fits the L2 spec and is a higher chrome variant of 1095 cro-van, it has 1% carbon, 0.95%chrome and 0.2% vanadium. Very tough and stable steel when well treated.
But here is my two cents, there are some things that I think are paramount to your success.
I'd recommend getting any means to control your temperature, be it a muffle pipe in a forge with two thermocouples in it plugged on a high temp thermometer or a proper heat treatment oven. Then it will be slightly easier to discern between steels types then, as one variable will be mostly discarted and the whole process will be much more reliable.
I make my own woodworking tools, as a matter of fact I went to pre-university art school here in Quebec 12 years ago and specialized in wood sculpture before making knives, and that is where I actually learned to forge under menthorship of a teacher who was a 4th generation toolsmith. One thing in particular I have realized (and especially since I started making and selling knives) is that the whole process is somewhat more important than the steel, as long as it isn't something with too much alloying like HSS or stainless, they are a whole different beast altogether to deal with.
If you don't forge too hot (not over 2000f), normalize the steel adequatly for said steel, do some grain refining cycles (its usefulness is nowadays debated but in any case when well done it can't hurt much), do a DET anneal to refine the carbides as much as possible, austenitize in a way that you put just the right amount of carbon in solution for said steel, quench in a fast enough medium and that you have means to convert as much of the retained austenite without going too high in temperature at the temper, be it cryo or simply be dilligent to temper straight after quenching, then I'd say any of these low alloyed steels will do a most excellent job. And that is very hard to do consistently without some sort of accurate temp control. The biggest enemy I have seen so far for woodworking tools is retained austenite, this is the culprit that makes deburring a pain in the a**, holds onto foil edges and promotes small deformations even on a hard >63hrc edge. You need to be especially careful to austenitize at temps that don't put too much carbon in solution, have a fast quench oil (or if you are a bit bonkers like me, a water quench with clay slurry, japanese style), and go straight to temper for a good hour at least, and then another. Cryo I have never tried but I guess that would be icing on the cake.
Steels like 1095, 26c3 and shirogami do excel somewhat when it comes with dealing with retained austenite as they don't have much alloying that might promote it if well treated as above. Steels with high chromium like 52100 or that special silver steel I wrote about at the beggining require some adaptations to overcome this challenge and might actually benefit a bit from cryo, but I think if they are worked well and heat treated with specific austemp to deal with how chrome affects the whole structure they can and will make terrific cutters. The vanadium or tungsten alloyed steels like cruforge V or aogami/vtoku2/1.2419/1.2519/1.2442/1.2562/ApexUltra can also work very well but they most definitely need special care to deal with the carbides and their refinement, otherwise you'd get big weak clumps of carbides, and carbide tearout on a fine woodworking edge is a no-go. 1.2519 and apex ultra would have also to deal with the same chromium potential issue as 52100.
This explains in part why steels like shirogami 1 or 26c3 are very well suited for this type of tool. It isn't that they are the best, it is mostly that straight out of the bat they get to a very good result with less hassle than some others, but again somewhat higher alloyed steels might surpass them if you got your thing together.
I personally love GFS silver steel, old files, 26c3, vtoku2 and 80crv2 for wood chisels. I have made mortising chisels, flat chisels from 1/2 up to 3" wide, all japanese style laminated to some pattern welded wrought iron and 15n20 billets and hollowed Ura.
80crv2 for anything that requires high toughness at the slight detriment of very fine edge holding. My 48inch long 2.5" wide timberframe slick a friend of mine has borrowed and he absolutely loves it.
GFS silver steel and vtoku 2 for balanced overall properties, plenty tough and quite stable edges that holds a bit longer than 80crv2. Vtoku in particular keeps a very decent edge vor a while after the fine razor edge is gone. I love them for working hard woods like rosewood, amaranth or katalox, they hold their own very well.
Old black diamond files (mine are over 30 years old and were checked out at a metallurgical lab at my local college to be some sort of 1.2% carbon w2) and 26c3 for stuff that prioritizes refined edge holding over everything else.
These I temper at 65hrc and are very stable at the edge, it is mostly for finishing work.
I did one in Cruforge V and it is very tough and holds a working edge forever but the very fine edge holding is not much better than gfs silver steel or vtoku for example, so it is a but redundant. I keep it for very aggressive slicers and hunting knives, it is perfectly suited for it.
I have yet to make a chisel out of 52100 but I would be very curious to try it out, must be lovely if well treated. I have done monosteel knives that are very pleasant to use with this steel, following Larrin thomas protocol.
So that was my two cents, do whatever you want with it but these are some of my conclusions, having been for some years already through a similar thought process as yours regarding steel types for woodworking chisels. This whole exploration thing has also trickled down to my knifemaking in a way, as even thought they are two different tools the steels are mostly the same and the edge behaviour is quite similar.
In any case I am very curious to see where this goes, keep us updated
(just got a little further down)