I'm going to go against all "traditional wisdom" here and suggest something a bit easier, if, somewhat less optimal.
I've had great, I mean really great experiences with very small simple shapes quenched in water. With something this small, cracking and warping just hasn't been a problem.
Also, with the intended use, I can't really see slightly enlarged grains being all that big a deal either.
Why not get the steel hotter, helping to make sure everything goes nicely into soloution, quench in water, then bake at 375 for two hours, twice.
As most of these folks could tell you, the point to soaking the 1095 is to make sure all of the carbon goes nicely into the austenite soloution. The preferred way to do this is to heat the steel until the grain begins to re-form at the previous grain boundaries as it changes into austenite. Then, to soak at that temperature until all of the previous structures have been dissolved. This actually happens a bit hotter than the point at which the magnet stops sticking to the steel, which is one of the reasons you're probably getting results you find sub par.
So, you need to get the steel hotter than simply non-magnetic.
Instead of "soaking" at the proper temperature, you can achive the soloution by heating the steel up a bit more. Don't go nuts with it, or you can burn it, but don't be afraid of the heat either. You'll grow your grains larger than you want to, but for a marking blade, basically a wood scribe, I really don't see this making all that huge a difference. Lots of people will disagree with this approach, and with some good reason. I try to avoid exactly this in most of my own knives too, but the knives I make are typically for a harder use duty, and need some extra resiliance.
Too, lots of people will see the water quench idea and cringe a bit. It's true that you can expect a certain number of them to crack. It's also true that many will have microscopic cracks that you just won't see. However, in very small peices, I've had some really good experiences with water quenching, and it may be worth a try to see if you get the results you're looking for. One or two sacrificial test peices would be enough to let you know if it's going to work out for you.
Double tempering would be a decent idea too. Let the blades cool in between, or even just run them under cold tapwater when they come out of the first. This can help make sure both that any austenite that doesn't transform in the quench goes over, and it will then temper that too. Finally, it can help you experiment a little easier with the right temperature setting for your oven. For example, I do my tempering in my kitchen oven, and have found that I should temper with the oven set at about 25 degrees lower than the "reccomended" temperature, as my particular oven tends to run hot.
No, this soloution is certainly not IDEAL, but it will definitely cover the bases, and if you have found yourself with a backlog of 1095 to treat, and are not happy with the results you're already getting, it could be worth a shot for one or two test peices, to see if it gives you the improvements you're looking for.
But good post and spot on.