1095 rust prevention

valknut said:
3 in 1 oil works best. There's a video on it about 1095 on YouTube
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...it also tastes like shit.

Don’t know about you, but I use my knives for all sorts of stuff, including cooking, dressing game, and making peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.

Smear a bit of coconut oil on the warmed blade, let it sit for a bit, and wipe it dry.


Coconut oil is the ‘active’ ingredient in FrogLube.

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2016/02/21/froglube-is-probably-made-from-coconut-oil-not-frogs/


Reasons why you might want to consider something like FrogLube:

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
 
I use Rem oil for all rust prevention I carry a "food knife" so I don't care about that. I use a Cold Steel Kudu for food.
 
Surprisingly my wife told me about the coconut oil trick. I planned on testing it when I finnish a walnut handle also cause ya know science
 
Renaissance Wax works the best for me. I use it on all my 1095 among many other things.

Great video! Thanks for sharing that. Couple things to point out:
The renaissance wax vs. carnauba wax wasn’t surprising. But carnauba wax won’t wear quite as well as the renaissance wax. (And if you read about the development of renaissance wax, they talk about how carnauba and bees wax become acidic over time so renaissance wax wins that comparison for long term storage)

Rem oil is not exactly an oil, it’s more of a dry lube with Teflon in an alcohol carrier and it’s actually not that good at rust prevention compared to other lubes. Rem oil’s majic is in its low film build and it resists gunking-up. It’s a great friction-reducing lube but as a surface protector WD-40 is far better. “WD” stands for “water displacement”: that’s exactly what it was designed for, but again it wears off faster than renaissance wax.

Light weight oils like 3-in-1, Marvel Mystery, light motor oils, etc. work very well at preventing surface rust as we saw in that test video. I’ll come back around to renaissance wax as being a great dry lube that stays on for years and doesn’t wear off easily. I’d gladly use any of those oils if I didn’t have renaissance wax. But I like the bonus that my knife doesn’t have to be all oily.

For those that don’t know, renaissance wax was designed to preserve priceless antiques initially for the British museum. Especially for metal things that were frequently handle by human hands. The stuff works good.

Sorry I sound “sales pitchy”. I’m still tickled with how well it works on my blades. I preserve old stacked leather handles with it too.
 
Renaissance Wax is designed to be easy to buff off. Try neutral paste shoe polish. Much cheaper and more durable.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Renaissance Wax is designed to be easy to buff off.
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With very much respect, I don’t think this is quite correct. If I may: it was designed to dry hard and protect surfaces of items that are frequently handled without wearing it off. It’s also designed to be able to be cleaned with detergents and not wear off. It’s also designed for outdoor use and it’s made specifically so only mineral spirits would strip it. Not that it can’t buff off but I don’t think it buffs off any easier than any other wax. It’s certainly in my experience more wear resistant than car wax (it’s still only a wax. It does eventually come off).

I’m not disagreeing about the shoe polish, that may well work better. I’d like to try that out.
 
That doesn’t fly up here, bud - I can rinse and dry a carbon steel knife, place it on a shelf and, depending on the time of the year, have rust spots in two weeks or two days. Yes, rust spots.

Don Hanson III said:
Rinse and wipe dry is all we do with carbon steel in the kitchen. Never any rust.
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Matthew Gregory said:
That doesn’t fly up here, bud - I can rinse and dry a carbon steel knife, place it on a shelf and, depending on the time of the year, have rust spots in two weeks or two days. Yes, rust spots.
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Sounds like down here in Florida. I can't grind a knife without the other side completely rusting. Gotta wipe my knives down with wd then put them in a zip lock
 
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