15n20 or 8670

Pelagicfun

Pelagicfun

Joined
Oct 16, 2017
Messages
245
What are the major differences? Any I would notice as a rookie looking to add a steel to my lineup?
 
Thank you for a fast response. I not interested in damascus at the moment. I do find it interesting reading from people that says 15n20 is a good all around and underrated. Does #50 need warmed for it? If a choose to clamp in plates after quench how long do you wait? I read multiple times it is easy to straighten if mistakes are made. Does this make clamping in plates not so worth it?
 
I'd just buy the 8670. It doesn't make sense to pay for all that extra nickel in the steel your not using.
 
I’ve worked with both, and have made choppers, and skinners in both steels, heat treating in a simple forge. My choice after a lot of testing is 8670. You can get unbelievable results from it, if you experiment. The toughness in both is great, but 8670 is tougher by a decent margin in my testing! I quench in parks 50, no need to warm it, but you can use canola oil, at about 120 degrees too. I quench in oil, then put it in my plates and clamp it in my vise, maybe 5 minutes or so is good. Just till it cools to the touch, then I dunk it in water and wash off the oils. I’ve experimented with dry ice, and liquid nitrogen, even though these are simple steels, and you don’t gain much. It bumps the rc by a point or 2, and I seem to get better edge retention on my rope tests, so I’m sticking with this practice. I temper either steel between 325-350, depending on application.
 
rodriguez7 said:
I’ve worked with both, and have made choppers, and skinners in both steels, heat treating in a simple forge. My choice after a lot of testing is 8670. You can get unbelievable results from it, if you experiment. The toughness in both is great, but 8670 is tougher by a decent margin in my testing! I quench in parks 50, no need to warm it, but you can use canola oil, at about 120 degrees too. I quench in oil, then put it in my plates and clamp it in my vise, maybe 5 minutes or so is good. Just till it cools to the touch, then I dunk it in water and wash off the oils. I’ve experimented with dry ice, and liquid nitrogen, even though these are simple steels, and you don’t gain much. It bumps the rc by a point or 2, and I seem to get better edge retention on my rope tests, so I’m sticking with this practice. I temper either steel between 325-350, depending on application.
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Nice what's the final RC at that temper and cryo?
Did the parks increase the AQ hardness?
 
I have no way of testing actual rc. But in any case, I seem to be getting better, and more consistent results with parks. I am clay coating the spine, and I can get around 90 degrees or so before the blade snaps. Chopping into elk antler, I’m getting minor deformation. This is with a convex Edge. Not sure of the overall Edge geometry. But it’s rather thin.
 
I want to master every detail I add to my process and there is much to work on perfecting. I have never used plates after a quench. Its a worthwhile practice to start and learn? Only real warping I see is on the blades I practice free hand because of uneven geometry. I'm getting there. How long is oil dip before plates? Are there any tricks to doing this quickly? I imagine time in oil and into plates is important and takes some trial and error?
Thanks
C
 
I’ve had some warp, but I blame uneven heat from my forge, I finally bought an oven. I usually quench for around 10-15 seconds, then move into the plates, while it’s still relatively hot! Usually I move as fast as I can! The most important time, is from the oven or forge to the oil! The plates, I don’t think are needed, just to minimize warp.
 
Quench plates are a very good addition to ones HT. They aren't used on evry quench, but are nice to have around. Once you start with stainless steels and high alloy steels, they are required. Once the blade has been in the oil for 5 seconds, it can go right into the plates. Leave clamped for 5 minutes to be sure the blade has fully converted to martensite. Temper immediately when taken out of the plates.
 
Thanks so much. Very helpful. 2 more things while I have you guys. Plate thickness? Also do any of the ppl that offer HT test coupons?
 
I bought a 1 inch thick plate off ebay, and cut it myself, i think it’s like 4x6x1. I need some bigger plates soon!
 
rodriguez7 said:
Stacey is the guy to learn from!!
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Yes, this is what I have gathered after a year of quietly following along here. Thankful for Staceys good, fast advise and never makes us newbies feel like our quesions are ridiculous. This means a lot. It was actually 3 threads or so involving you 2 and samuraistuart that promped this question.
 
I’m still learning, but I do ask a lot of dumb questions. But you don’t know unless you ask! Stuart and Stacey are big helps! They know more than I’ll ever know.
 
I like plates 1.5" thick or thicker, but 1" is more than ample on single knives. 3-4" wide by 16" long is a good size. My plates are 2.5X4X24"

BTW, the name is Stacy ... no e. I get this all the time, so it doesn't bother me at all.

Give JT an email or PM. I bet he could do the Rockwell test on your coupons. Best solution is to find a maker in Indiana who has a hardness tester. Take a twelve pack of beer and visit him with your coupons. I know folks who have done the same thing with a machine shop in their town. Most full size machine shops have a hardness tester.
If none of that works out, post your request in The Exchange - Services Wanted.
 
Yes, I have been told that. Another reason I hate auto-correct.

I get a chuckle out of how it will take a mistyped ask ( say asl) and change it to ass.
Example. "I will asl your sister if she will go to the lake with me." becomes a very different sentence with auto-correct.
 
Parks #50 does not require heating unless the ambient temp is below 70F. ?The other question is whether or not it is the right quenchant for 8670 because of the added Mo and Cr?
 
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