17 inch contact wheel grinder

Lots of engineering to work out for nothing gained. What keeps tension? How do you release tension? How do you keep side to side slop out? Driven by a belt and pulley? Attached to motor? If pulley, how do you get the drive belt and abrasive belt tight at the same time?
 
mike-E said:
Lots of engineering to work out for nothing gained. What keeps tension? How do you release tension? How do you keep side to side slop out? Driven by a belt and pulley? Attached to motor? If pulley, how do you get the drive belt and abrasive belt tight at the same time?
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The drive belt is most likely tightened by the motor. Usually, you mount the motor on a hinged based so that either gravity or a mechanical lever can tension it.

The idler wheel behind the large contact wheel usually tensions and tracks the abrasive belt.
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Edit to add....... Sorry I did not see his last pic... yes I agree that his "simplification" could get complicated... lol.
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Guys , it will take us one hour on lathe and mill to do this .I have no problem with work to do this ........ ;) Tension will be steady , when I turn part /red color on picture/ and lock it ? About drive belt .... it easy to do that , like Rick explained . . .
another drawing

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This is rear wheel from Kawasaki ...to get picture how this kind of tightening works. Axle of wheel is where that Allen tool is inserted

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Are the yellow and red part threaded together? If so, how do you know the belt will get tight at the same instant the shoulder meets? Or do you have to loosen two seperate things?
 
mike-E said:
Are the yellow and red part threaded together? If so, how do you know the belt will get tight at the same instant the shoulder meets? Or do you have to loosen two seperate things?
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No Mike , red part is round /like masive bushing / To lock that part I will use two M10 bolts ...see this draw ....green bolt is for lock ...
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That's what I meant when I said you would have to loosen 2 things.
Youre a fan of ratchet tension. You could put ratchet teeth on perimeter of the red bushing and not have to loosen the pinch bolt.
 
I would have to loosen only two M10 bolts , Mike ...and that is not problem at all . Here is picture of my work rest for this grinder .... in the same way will work this what I try to explain .....instead of one bolt I will use two bolts.
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mike-E said:
That's what I meant when I said you would have to loosen 2 things.
Youre a fan of ratchet tension. You could put ratchet teeth on perimeter of the red bushing and not have to loosen the pinch bolt.
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If I do that I will need to secure red bushing from move left and right ...and that is more complicated to do , bushing is 2 inch Dia.
 
Snap ring on wheel side of yellow housing. This is already way more complicated than a tracking/tension combination. I'm just thinking of one handed and speedy belt changes. That's always my first consideration when designing a tension system.
 
Ratchet tension ... yes I like that .This way will work same as ratchet .Speed of belt change is not that much important here , this is grinder for rough grinding Well , I already cut piece of round 2 inch steel . Perfect size for this and have hole for handle ...

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Now I wonder ..should I make it two speed or no ? With one speed would be around 30 m/s .....
 
Other than being a different way of doing things, I don't see any advantage. In fact, I only see disadvantages. They would be calculated disadvantages, since you are willing to forego ease of belt change and a make it a dedicated roughing machine.

If you want to do it, just to show yourself it is possible, then go for it, my friend. I just don't think it is advantageous. The chain tension system on the motorcycle makes sense on the motorcycle, where the tension is static and locked down. Belt grinder tension should be more dynamic.
 
I m not looking in different/advantage way to do things Rick .This way is much easier for me .All work is on lathe , and remains to drill several hole for bolts ? This way it will be very easy to precisely line up contact wheel and tracking wheel .
I m sorry , I don t understand your last sentence ...What you mean with Belt grinder tension should be more dynamic ?
With ratchet system for tension , is it more dynamic ? I really don t understand what you mean ?
PS . I really don t see why you say that this is complicated to do ? All i need is this two part . Anyway, in any case I have to somehow fix that contact wheel , right ?
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Well , one part is done , take us half hour on lathe .Wheel axle is pressed too , remains only to cut the excess of axle .....
Im still thinking of this Belt grinder tension should be more dynamic and I can t find answer ? What is difference between ratchet and this kind of tension I can not figure ??
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On the wheel ..........lot of movement for tension
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Guys if something is not right , talk now .I'm not doing this just for myself :)
 
mike-E said:
Lots of engineering to work out for nothing gained. What keeps tension? How do you release tension? How do you keep side to side slop out? Driven by a belt and pulley? Attached to motor? If pulley, how do you get the drive belt and abrasive belt tight at the same time?
Click to expand...

Mike , it is easy .First I tight abrasive belt and then drive belt . Then when I loose this of-center part booth belt will lose , same as I tight them booth will be tight as it was previously set up .......This of-center axle have a LOT of power , I have small press on that principle . You'd be surprised how much power it has . I think it will be possible to tighten the system with only one finger :)
 
This will end up as my WIP thread guys :) I make some progress tonight , I decided that the other part would be from two 2 cm. thick pieces of steel .That way I will have more tightening power with M10 bolts I intend to use ......This three small bolts a here temporally only to hold this two pieces together .I will remove them tomorrow after we drill that 50mm hole on lathe ....

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And I get same crazy idea about tracking wheel mechanism , too .It can t be simple that that . . .. . ;)
 
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