18" Kobra...15 oz of pure snake

I am haveing a hard time getting good picture of the blade. Any tips would be welcomed. There was some damage but not as much as you might think. The bone was very hard. Edge folded about 1/8 of a inch in depth over about a 3/4in length of blade if that makes sense. I will try to get some better shots of it. Now after doing this do I think that I could cut someones arm off...I don't know maybe. But I do know this. The damage to the head would be massive, that much news paper slowed down the blade alot when the bone was hanging up and it still chiped it pretty well. WHen the bone was in a place where it couldn't swing back and forth then the damage to the bone was terrible. Take a look and let me know what you think. I will try to get some blade damage pictures. The damage really wasn't that bad. Thanks all.
 
Keep in mind that dead bone is different from live bone. Live bone would be easier to cut, as dead bone is harder (calcification or something like that).
 
Originally posted by Eikerværing
But that is not a whole lot of extra force.

I am able to transfer hip force in a straight punch myself but not in a khukuri chop strike. Remember the khukuri strike tends to go down in a chop. It is not a strike or a throw, it is a chop movement. I think speed and weight of the khukuri is the most important element, just like in Dadao's words.
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You can also transfer force from the upper torso rotating left-right or right-left, and from snapping your wrist forward. That IS a whole lot of extra force, and all with a 15oz khukuri - which means you can do it again, and again, and again in quick succession. Something you'll find hard to do with a 22oz WWII, for example.

The pictures look frightening. But an 18 inch Kobra is a lot shorter than that. Less speed and strike.
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You wouldn't say that after seeing me whip that 18" Bura Kobra around in horizontal and diagonal attacks :) It is FAST.

re: escrima pics. Imagine that guy holding an 18" kobra instead of the escrima stick. He'd still be well within range. His attack to the side of the head, with a kobra, would have severed part of the neck or cut off the right mandible, or penetrated the temple - that's not including the stun effect of 15oz of steel propelled at high speeds.
 
Some perspective. The 28" version of this weighs 18 ounces. Of course this is the "youth" model, the adult versions weigh quite a bit more.

yb704.jpg


OK, this is certainly not a scientific comparison.

But just imagine if you'd sharpen it a bit. I guess the tricky part with a Kuhk is anticipating if it's going to stop when you hit something or if it slices right through and takes off your big toe.

Although, if your knife just slices through, it doesn't release all of the energy (mass * velocity-squared) into the target. What to do, what to do.
 
I'd HAVE to add that the size, weight, and curve/bend of each khuk vary but each ends up balanced at some point, and in doing so each affords different but easily adjusted to uses.

My old 18th Century had an extreme bend such that it's normal swing would land on it's point. It's normal swing used the tip like a pick.

Most average khuks bend such that their blades tend to hit when swung normally in a combination of a slash and chop. The heavier and slower AK's in more of a chop, and the straighter or less bent Sirupatis and light fast khuks swing ending in more of a slashing/slicing motion.

What I meant when I said "throw" using the straighter khuks was to use the motion you'd use to throw, but employed so the blade's tip would impact at a point on angle, ( as in ) a stab but with wind up before the point of impact, and follow through afterwards. By the same token, an 18th Century used in this manner would end up slashing. Same motion, different effect.

As everyone has told you, maximize the strengths, minimise the weakmesses. The quick lightweights excell in slashing/slicing but can chop. The slow and heavyweights excell in chopping but can slice and slash. If it has an edge you can chop or slice or slash, and if it has a point it can stick. One way or another.
 
I'd HAVE to add that the size, weight, and curve/bend of each khuk vary but each ends up balanced at some point, and in doing so each affords different but easily adjusted to uses.

My old 18th Century had an extreme bend such that it's normal swing would land on it's point. It's normal swing used the tip like a pick.

Most average khuks bend such that their blades tend to hit when swung normally in a combination of a slash and chop. The heavier and slower AK's in more of a chop, and the straighter or less bent Sirupatis and light fast khuks swing ending in more of a slashing/slicing motion.

What I meant when I said "throw" using the straighter khuks was to use the motion you'd use to throw, but employed so the blade's tip would impact at a point on angle, ( as in ) a stab but with wind up before the point of impact, and follow through afterwards. By the same token, an 18th Century used in this manner would end up slashing. Same motion, different effect.

As everyone has told you, maximize the strengths, minimise the weakmesses. The quick lightweights excell in slashing/slicing but can chop. The slow and heavyweights excell in chopping but can slice and slash. If it has an edge you can chop or slice or slash, and if it has a point it can stick. One way or another.

If you know one khuk, you already have an idea of how to use another radically different one. You just have to get used to it.

This post makes some sense, I swear, even if I forget what it was.
 
Mark Nelson!!! Thank you very much for your dedication to solve this question. This really burries all kinds of doubts about the Kobras.

Now I want a light weight khuk also.

Any chance of a picture of that damaged edge?

Hmmm... a hanshee style light weight khuk. That would be something. Any chance of a limited reproduction?
 
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