This evening trying to catch up on very neglected web stuff including the Forum.
ITEM 1: Do not pound stakes with a round-eye hawk. Have countless pictures in my reference library of old hawks with triangular eyes from use as a hammer or splitting wedge. And you'll never get a handle to fit again. You can get away with some light pounding on wood or plastic stakes on an occasional basis but DO NOT use the Warhawk or Competition on steel stakes or for heavy beating. Get a hammer polled hawk like the Longhunter or Voyageur.
ITEM 2: The Competition has not been discontinued. I'm just way behind on them and currently out of materials which should be here soon.
ITEM 3: Competition and Warhawk are machined from the same materials, the only real difference is the edge geometry. As was correctly pointed out the razor sharp upper and lower fighting edges on the Warhawk can be a potential liability for "routine" camp use unless you are careful.
ITEM 4: Blade main-edge contour on the Competition (and the Warhawk) is very nice for skinning, a nice approx. 4 inch sweeping edge, and it can be used like an ulu due to the rounded edges near the handle. Also it is a wider edge than the Longhunter which is nice for some chores. The Competition was optimized for sticking in a block of wood (and flies like it was laser-guided) but also works well for other stuff .... a hawk is a multipurpose tool.
ITEM 5: The Longhunter is based on 1700's medium belt hawks and is basically a camp tool though it could be very handy on a dark trail when there are bad guys around. It pounds stakes well, cuts wood well though the blade edge (see MEDIUM BELT HAWK) is fairly narrow compared to a cordwood-beast like the heavier Voyageur.
ITEM 6: Civilian vs. Military hawks .... the Longhunter and Competition are blued like a nice rifle (Comp is a Hardware/80 finish and Longhunter is Field/220 finish) while the military models are all low-reflectance (rough) surface with a tough acid brown finish like brown parkerizing. Militaries also have dark satin oil handles, thong ferrules, OD paracord grip wrap/wrist thong, and a mottled earthtone rawhide upper handle reinforcement. "Shiny" is not good when the smelly stuff is hitting the fan in bad-guy country.
ITEM 7: Some customers have gotten good "modern" sheaths from Survival Sheath Systems (
http://www.survivalsheath.com).
Hope this information helps, and thanks to everyone for their patience as my aging slow nasty body tries to keep up with the big backlog in orders.
TWO HAWKS
http://www.2hawks.net