2 Jerry - What is INFI not recommended edge angles.

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Tony G said:
Or have big enough weiners.:p


So you were a meat cutter. What are your thoughts one edge angle and weiner size?

And hurry up... I want to go play darts.:cool: :thumbup:

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On something as soft as meat the pic of vasselies GW would be just right...and I'm pretty happy with my wiener size:thumbup:

I buy the jumbos:D

Really though, you just need a thin blade and keep it sharp at all times.
Good luck tonight.
 
Wonder if they have thought about a 50/50.
Top of blade normal and the handle area melted.
 
idahoskunk said:
careful, the mods are thicker than ticks on a hogs back around here. ok... whats the angle of the dangle?


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angle of the dangle is equal to the heat of the meat.

All the Busse blades that I have moded have a 20 degree angle.

Richard
 
This guy is just trolling lol. exactly like he did on the kershaw forum. only here to stir trouble, so I suggest you put it on ignore and go about the other threads
 
You know Busse already addressed this with the Boney ADs. They were very thin for a Busse and per Busse required a harder blade to support the thin edge. So says BUSSE!

I agree. I have found that when I made a edge to thin on normal Infi it rippled pretty easy.

According to Busse, and my experience anyway. I also think BAN noted this as well at some point.

Perhaps people need to step back and take a deep breath.
 
Justabuyer said:
I agree. I have found that when I made a edge to thin on normal Infi it rippled pretty easy.


Perhaps people need to step back and take a deep breath.
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He claimed his edge was not that thin! Check it out in General.
 
samhain73 said:
Well, Spyderco puts a 26 deg angle on they're folders, with a 40 deg microbevel.
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In terms of blade geometry and steel match, Spyerco makes some of the best slicers out there. A number of knives in the Spyderco line use VG-10 which, according to several sources I've seen, was developed by the Japanese to use in horticultural/pruning blades. It slices like nobody's business when sharpened properly.

Would I want a Spyderco if I had to hack through a concrete weiner? Probably not. For the hard weiners, I'll stick to my Busses.
 
It isn't completely impossible that it's bad steel near the edge. I got a scrapyard ss4 in infi that had a similar problem. Sharpened out just fine but I had to take a good 1 or 2mm of steel of the edge before I got to the good stuff. It was pretty extreme in that case, the thick factory edge just flopped right over easily on stuff that my ultrathin slicers could be pounded into no problem.
 
This is my AD at 30 degrees. It holds up very very very well.
img_1504.JPG

In my opinion, any knife sharpened at a more acute angle, except for kitchen knives, is unnecessary. It's not the 30 degree edge that keeps it from slicing, it's the metal behind it.
 
yoda4561 said:
It isn't completely impossible that it's bad steel near the edge. I got a scrapyard ss4 in infi that had a similar problem. Sharpened out just fine but I had to take a good 1 or 2mm of steel of the edge before I got to the good stuff. It was pretty extreme in that case, the thick factory edge just flopped right over easily on stuff that my ultrathin slicers could be pounded into no problem.
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Can you give me some more info on this. How do you know when to stop, how you see that you got to good staff? 2 mm is quite a good part of blade width, .

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Well I noticed the edge start to roll easily, so after a quick steel and strop, I did something I knew it should be able to handle fine. I chopped, lightly, into one of my 30lb dumbbells. I'm not sure what it's made of, cast iron/lead whatever. This rippled the edge like it was tinfoil. I knew it wasn't normal since I've smashed my battle mistress with a (at the time) thinner edge on it into hard rocks and an occasional nail buried in wood with just a very slight glimmer in the edge to indicate it was hit there. Checked with a few other knives that I knew were normal performers on the dumbell the same way, none were damaged including a 20 Bm 710, Busse NO, my FBM, and a becker magnum camp with a quarter inch wide super thin convex edge.

Took it to my dmt coarse and ground past the damaged steel, at the same time I thinned the angle down so it would be a better cutter. Repeated my impromptu dumbell test and it was still not quite there, not as bad as the factory edge. Repeated that a couple times until it started to perform up to expectations. Mind you I wouldn't have kept sharpening it much past where I did, if it didn't get better I would have called up Scrapyard and had them take a look at it, since it did it even with the very thick factory edge.

I can't really tell what happened with yours since I wasn't the one using it, but I just wanted to throw that bone out there for those that think it's impossible to get bad steel at the edge on Infi.

**Edit: and you're right, 2mm is a bit much, I just looked at a ruler, it was more like 1mm or perhaps a hair less, still quite a bit of steel I had to remove to get past the bad steel.
 
yoda4561 said:
It isn't completely impossible that it's bad steel near the edge. I got a scrapyard ss4 in infi that had a similar problem. Sharpened out just fine but I had to take a good 1 or 2mm of steel of the edge before I got to the good stuff. It was pretty extreme in that case, the thick factory edge just flopped right over easily on stuff that my ultrathin slicers could be pounded into no problem.
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More I think about this - more it makes sense. About year ago I posted here test results of INFI and 420HC. INFI was not performs very well at all. Test I did last month shows IMHO better results. And that happen after those damage (to drastically altered paper thin edge to 30 degree...). From last year I did resharpened it many times - had to almost after any use. May be I just need to dig more?

Vassili.
 
yoda4561 said:
Well I noticed the edge start to roll easily, so after a quick steel and strop, I did something I knew it should be able to handle fine. I chopped, lightly, into one of my 30lb dumbbells. I'm not sure what it's made of, cast iron/lead whatever. This rippled the edge like it was tinfoil. I knew it wasn't normal since I've smashed my battle mistress with a (at the time) thinner edge on it into hard rocks and an occasional nail buried in wood with just a very slight glimmer in the edge to indicate it was hit there. Checked with a few other knives that I knew were normal performers on the dumbell the same way, none were damaged including a 20 Bm 710, Busse NO, my FBM, and a becker magnum camp with a quarter inch wide super thin convex edge.

Took it to my dmt coarse and ground past the damaged steel, at the same time I thinned the angle down so it would be a better cutter. Repeated my impromptu dumbell test and it was still not quite there, not as bad as the factory edge. Repeated that a couple times until it started to perform up to expectations. Mind you I wouldn't have kept sharpening it much past where I did, if it didn't get better I would have called up Scrapyard and had them take a look at it, since it did it even with the very thick factory edge.

I can't really tell what happened with yours since I wasn't the one using it, but I just wanted to throw that bone out there for those that think it's impossible to get bad steel at the edge on Infi.

**Edit: and you're right, 2mm is a bit much, I just looked at a ruler, it was more like 1mm or perhaps a hair less, still quite a bit of steel I had to remove to get past the bad steel.
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Thanks, I will try it and see. I think I did nothave right example as you did - it was first Busse I start using. However othe GW (and I have 4) pretty much same - I did not test tem - just general feeling.

Thanks to everybody else - I also learn a lot about me, my personality and Busse people in general...

Vassili.
 
The steel isn't necessarily bad I don't think, what it could be though is a difference in the heat treat on the edge.

I've got a Yoshikane gyuto kitchen knife and the edge microchipped like mad! I couldn't find any reason for it as Yoshikane's following is pretty large. One person did mention that it could be "bad" steel on the edge. So I took it to the waterstones and took off just the slightest amount, put a steep edge on it and it's been great ever since.
 
yoda4561 said:
Well I noticed the edge start to roll easily, so after a quick steel and strop, I did something I knew it should be able to handle fine. I chopped, lightly, into one of my 30lb dumbbells. I'm not sure what it's made of, cast iron/lead whatever. This rippled the edge like it was tinfoil. I knew it wasn't normal since I've smashed my battle mistress with a (at the time) thinner edge on it into hard rocks and an occasional nail buried in wood with just a very slight glimmer in the edge to indicate it was hit there. Checked with a few other knives that I knew were normal performers on the dumbell the same way, none were damaged including a 20 Bm 710, Busse NO, my FBM, and a becker magnum camp with a quarter inch wide super thin convex edge.

Took it to my dmt coarse and ground past the damaged steel, at the same time I thinned the angle down so it would be a better cutter. Repeated my impromptu dumbell test and it was still not quite there, not as bad as the factory edge. Repeated that a couple times until it started to perform up to expectations. Mind you I wouldn't have kept sharpening it much past where I did, if it didn't get better I would have called up Scrapyard and had them take a look at it, since it did it even with the very thick factory edge.

I can't really tell what happened with yours since I wasn't the one using it, but I just wanted to throw that bone out there for those that think it's impossible to get bad steel at the edge on Infi.

**Edit: and you're right, 2mm is a bit much, I just looked at a ruler, it was more like 1mm or perhaps a hair less, still quite a bit of steel I had to remove to get past the bad steel.
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I have SR101 - should INFI when I get to right depth be similar to it?

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Haven't used sr101 so I can't really say. It should hold up at least as good as anyones 154cm or ats34 with edgeholding and stability, as well as having toughness those steels can't approach. At least that's been my general impression of it over the years.
 
Still not certain is the steel. Two of the same knives from differents troughs are acting the same.
Now that I think about it, bad steel due to heat treat should chip, not roll correct?
 
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