I paid $21.00 for the plans on a C.D. and printed them from my computer. In my opinion they are well worth it. Caffreys websight is www.caffreyknives.net The propane forge I use was also Ed's design. I built that forge around five years ago and its still going strong after alot of use.
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- Thread starter wilhurley
- Start date
I paid $21.00 for the plans on a C.D. and printed them from my computer. In my opinion they are well worth it. Caffreys websight is www.caffreyknives.net The propane forge I use was also Ed's design. I built that forge around five years ago and its still going strong after alot of use.
Ok I Made part 2 two inches taller and extended part 5 by 1.5 inches which I believe will bring back the tooling arm 5-6 inches. I updated the blueprints earlier in this thread.
Link below of my website and where I am hosting the blueprints, cad files and photos etc..
http://blindhogg.com/eerfgrinder.html
Link below of my website and where I am hosting the blueprints, cad files and photos etc..
http://blindhogg.com/eerfgrinder.html
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- Joined
- Aug 8, 2004
- Messages
- 227
I've been working with Chris on this pattern. I cut one out at work (I run a laser) and got a chance to work on it this weekend.
There were a few changes that we've talked about that I'll be trying out in the next implementation. One of the changes that I suggested in the beginning, was to shorten the main upright plate a bit so that everything fit int a medium flat rate box from the post office. Shipping would be about $11 priority mail with delivery confirmation.
One modfication that I made right away, was to tab the main upright and leave an accompanying slot in the base plate. (Note: I'll be making the same modifications to the main upright and the base plate to incorporate the additional mounting the motor base).
I also made a similar notch on the idler arm. I expanded the idler mount more the original, but I'm not entire convinced that I needed to do that.
In the picture of the entire grinder, I didn't have long enough bolts on hand, and I left part of the spacer out, but put a different on in. That's why the upright on mine is a bit different than in Chris'. One change is to add the ability to have a work rest.
I want to make some changes and run another one. I'll be able to cut these and sell them for about $250 plus shipping.
Jamie
There were a few changes that we've talked about that I'll be trying out in the next implementation. One of the changes that I suggested in the beginning, was to shorten the main upright plate a bit so that everything fit int a medium flat rate box from the post office. Shipping would be about $11 priority mail with delivery confirmation.
One modfication that I made right away, was to tab the main upright and leave an accompanying slot in the base plate. (Note: I'll be making the same modifications to the main upright and the base plate to incorporate the additional mounting the motor base).
I also made a similar notch on the idler arm. I expanded the idler mount more the original, but I'm not entire convinced that I needed to do that.
In the picture of the entire grinder, I didn't have long enough bolts on hand, and I left part of the spacer out, but put a different on in. That's why the upright on mine is a bit different than in Chris'. One change is to add the ability to have a work rest.
I want to make some changes and run another one. I'll be able to cut these and sell them for about $250 plus shipping.
Jamie
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2004
- Messages
- 587
Jake,
Post 270 shows a bolt (looks like a 1/4-20) at the bottom of the upright.
Take care
Charles
Polarbearforge
Man I am glad you decided to show off your grinder, your upgrades are awesome. I think the two tabbed parts will make it much easier for guys to assemble one of these. It looks like your parts are steel, Is that so??
I actually think now that I have made one of these grinders in Aluminum that steel is preferable for both mass and rigidity.
Strahd
Charles is right, just a 1/4-20 bolt drilled and tapped into the 1/2 plate. It is not in the blueprint because the location depends on the length and strength of the spring you acquire. This spring I picked up at the local fastenal.
Man I am glad you decided to show off your grinder, your upgrades are awesome. I think the two tabbed parts will make it much easier for guys to assemble one of these. It looks like your parts are steel, Is that so??
I actually think now that I have made one of these grinders in Aluminum that steel is preferable for both mass and rigidity.
Strahd
Charles is right, just a 1/4-20 bolt drilled and tapped into the 1/2 plate. It is not in the blueprint because the location depends on the length and strength of the spring you acquire. This spring I picked up at the local fastenal.
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2006
- Messages
- 984
Thats what i`m hoping for as to get one cut out in the states and ship it over here would be BIG$$$$$
I`ve researched the nearest waterjet and laser cutters and i`m awaiting the files to start getting some quotes. I`ll be using steel so i can just weld it together.
Will the files be loaded up here ? Or can you email them to me
:thumbup:
Cheers Matt
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Jamie,
Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or is the idler arm on your machine backwards? it appears the idler wheel is on the left side of the machine(facing it from the front) shouldn't it be on the right side?
or are you trying to corner the market on knife grinders for lefties?
Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or is the idler arm on your machine backwards? it appears the idler wheel is on the left side of the machine(facing it from the front) shouldn't it be on the right side?
or are you trying to corner the market on knife grinders for lefties?
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2004
- Messages
- 227
Nope, your eyes are fine. I did make it the opposite way from the way that Chris made his. It's the way that I prefer mine and have always made my grinders.
Cornering the market for lefties would be about right though, I am left handed.
Jamie
Sorry about this dumb question but how much has it cost those who have one built? Materials and cutting service? I just want to get a basic idea. I read earlier in the thread some one mentioned it cost $250. Was that for cutting out the parts or both time and materials? This was a very cool thread and I love the way you guys pulled together for this. Thanks guys.
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2004
- Messages
- 227
panch0, the $250 I quoted is for the laser cut steel parts. Some assembly still required (drilling and tapping a few holes), as well as wheels, motor, and tool arm.
ericspaw, I made a modification that includes the addition of a tool arm. I'm going to try to have more pictures to share this weekend that will include that.
Jamie
ericspaw, I made a modification that includes the addition of a tool arm. I'm going to try to have more pictures to share this weekend that will include that.
Jamie