2" x 72" Belt Grinder kit $369.99

Got er done.
For anyone considering a 1800 rpm motor. Dont do it, I am using a 3600rpm motor and its about the perfect speed with a 4 inch drive wheel.
Very pleased with this grinder, the improvements make it much nicer. I still need to make a dedicated workrest for the separate tooling arm.
Chris
 

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Looks great, Chris. I can't wait to have mine up and running. I pondered going with the lower rpm motor but then decided to go with the higher speed. My pieces are going to be powder coated this weekend. Hopefully, I can begin assembly next week.

keith
 
Just a couple tips for folks who find someone to weld the base for them.

My whole reason for posting this is ericspaw's post about "close enough is not quite close enough"

(If you're welding it yourself you probably already know all this so disregard it, but I know some folks will seek out a buddy to weld it for them and might not know this stuff.... so watch out for it ;) )

Personally I would weld something like this up with solid wire (wirefeed) or TIG.

If your buddy is going to stick weld it, then ask him to use a low hydrogen rod like 7018. There's no need for a deep penetrating rod like 6010, and unless he's real good with it, it won't look as nice. 7018 will lay a very pretty and uniform bead.

If he tries to just weld up the whole length of one side first, then he's not accounting for warpage. Ideally you'd tack the ends, then run your welds down the sides. If he's really good, he'll probably stitch weld it and be able to run his stops/starts smooth enough that it looks like a continuous weld.

An experienced welder could account for warping by simply offsetting the upright before welding, but with the tab that sits down into the base plate I don't think that's possible.

A good weld could make something like this even more solid... a poor one could screw it up. :)
 
Hey Blind Dog That looks sweet!! Where did ya pick up that 10" wheel?? Thanks
 
spaknives said:
Hey Blind Dog That looks sweet!! Where did ya pick up that 10" wheel?? Thanks
Click to expand...

You know whats funny, when I marked it I thought it was a 10 inch wheel (too lazy to get a tape measure). But its actually only a 8 incher from Sunray.
And now I am too lazy to unmark it.
Chris
PS Had I known about Tracy at usaknifemakers I would have purchased from him instead though. Great guy to work with.
 
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blindhogg said:
Got er done.
For anyone considering a 1800 rpm motor. Dont do it, I am using a 3600rpm motor and its about the perfect speed with a 4 inch drive wheel.
Very pleased with this grinder, the improvements make it much nicer. I still need to make a dedicated workrest for the separate tooling arm.
Chris
Click to expand...

Chris,
I already have my 1750 rpm motor. Would using a 6 inch drive wheel work to speed things up a bit? I'll be using a VFD for speed control.
Also , I do not see a 4 or 6" drive wheel with a 5/8" bore on usaknifemakers web site. I was ready to order all of the supplies to put this together.
Thanks
 
Yea I hate to say it but I have a feeling you are going to think the 1800 rpm motor too slow. Yes going to a 6 inch drive wheel will speed things up some, but I do not believe anyone makes a 6 inch drive wheel in 5/8 bore, only 3/4 bore. Might be best to just get a faster motor. But if you have all the parts you might as well try it out, I think you will not be pleased though.
Chris
 
So the motors most people are using have 3/4" shafts and 56 or C face motors? Guess I need to look thru the Granger book again. My motor is still new in the box. I can swap it out.
 
5/8 shaft is standard for a 56 framed motor. I am using a 5/8 shaft on my motor and I had no problem finding a 4 inch drive wheel. Give tracy at usaknifemakers a call if you do not see it listed.
Chris
 
blindhogg said:
5/8 shaft is standard for a 56 framed motor. I am using a 5/8 shaft on my motor and I had no problem finding a 4 inch drive wheel. Give tracy at usaknifemakers a call if you do not see it listed.
Chris
Click to expand...

That is what I thought! Whew. I called and left Tracy a message, no call back yet. I will swap out the motor. I just looked at it and notice it is not TEFC, so it needs to go back anyway.
Thank you
Porter
 
I'll let you know how it runs with the 1800 rpm motor. I have a 2hp and a 4" drive wheel on the way. If i'm not happy, I'll shelf the 1800 rpm motor for a future horizontal grinder build and pick up a 3600 rpm motor.

--nathan
 
I ordered my 5/8 wheel from Tracy at USAKnifemaker. He said he was out which is why it isn't showing on his website and only shows the 3/4. He expected to get a shipment in either today or tomorrow. As said above, he is a great guy to work with. He said he would put them back up on his site once he got more in. You could probably just call him and have him put one back for you when they come in.
 
Silver
Just use the1800 rpm motor until you get the faster one. I use a 1800 motor on my KMG clone with step pulleys to get the speeds where I want. Horizontal grinder is a good idea also, I really need to build one of those I think.
Uh oh gears are starting to turn, Gotta go fire up the cad program.
Chris
 
I talked with Beaumont Metal works yesterday and ordered their 2hp motor and VFD. He said with the direct drive to go with the 3600rpm motor, so you are correct Chris.
In the grinder kit, it looks like the holes to be tapped in the tool arm holder is meant to be 1/4" for the clamping screw. I am going to drill and tap those for 3/8" and only use 1/4" for the tracking wheel adjuster. Does this sound ok?
 
porterb123 said:
In the grinder kit, it looks like the holes to be tapped in the tool arm holder is meant to be 1/4" for the clamping screw. I am going to drill and tap those for 3/8" and only use 1/4" for the tracking wheel adjuster. Does this sound ok?
Click to expand...

Yep, no problems. Going with the VFD? Can't wait to see it finished!

Good tips on the welding. I don't remember which rod I used to weld mine. It didn't move much, but I factor that in, I've had too much stuff warp.

I love the progress that everybody has been making on their kits. I must say, you're keeping me busy right now!

Jamie
 
I did the same for the clamping holes. I drilled and tapped for 3/8" Many of the heavier duty clamping knobs/handles out there are 3/8". I should be getting the drive wheel, tracking wheel, and some misc in a few days as well as my motor any day (ordered last week). As soon as it's up, I'll post pics. I've already wired a switch setup into my VFD output, so all I'll have to do us connect the motor :D.

--nathan
 
Thanks for the critique/hints on welding- this is one of those life skills that is on my to learn list this year. My set up is a 4" drive wheel on a 56c frame 1800 rpm motor. I'm slightly skittish around power tools, so this is fine for now. The last things I have left is to wire it up to a VFD (it figures since I work for an electrical contractor, don't ask why there is a bare bulb in the dining room for a couple years.) and to finish up a platen. The contact wheel is an 8" and all the wheels were purchased from Tracy. I'll post more pics when I get this thing wrapped up in the next couple days.

Again thanks to all who worked to pull this together as well as those sharing tips and advice.

Eric
 
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Porter
Yes I upsized my 1/4 hole to 3/8 also to have a stronger clamp for the tooling arm.
I also heli-coiled my two 1/2 holes so I dont have to have nuts on the other side of the flat platen. Not that I feel this is necessary for everyone, but i had them so I decided to use them. Pictures of that after the 2 inch contact wheels come in, in a few days.
Chris
PS We might have to have a thread of everyone showing off there EERF grinder in the future.
 
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