20"inch SHER Chiruwa AngKhola (my first HI order) - succesfully delivered!

Gorgeous blade! Time to let the chips fly! It dont have to be razor sharp to get the job done.
 
Most of my kukris are field sharp to moderately sharp. That is all you really need with a kukri. My Reti's are a whole different animal. They are made from through hardened files that are almost diamond hard to begin with. All my Reti's are shaving sharp. All of my HI swords are razor blades as well.
 
From my experience (and others'): it's possible that during the buffing process the edge overheats - this results in usually less than a mm of softer steel, that the first or second sharpening will take away and then you hit the properly hardened material. To complicate matters, during forging, from my understanding if the blade has been overheated, the metal loses some of its carbon content (along the edge) - this process is called decarburization. Thus, this second aspect concerns the satin-finished knives as well. This usually results in very very small edge rolls that should go away once you get to the thoroughly-hardened core, and is not the same thing as a heat treat failure.

Now, I initially thought that this could happen only in custom blades, but I read Cliff Stamp saying that he is usually reserving two or three sharpenings before he makes up his mind about a knife, as production blades might present the same issue.

This is from my research on this forum and others, someone please correct me if I am wrong in any detail. I can see why an annealed through buffing or decarbed edge would wear off quicker, but this should become a non-issue.

I would rather be curious if anyone here managed to sharpen his kukri enough times to get past the hardened metal into the springy, softer steel behind it. I know edge lifetime can be preserved through steeling with the chakmak but sometimes you do need to take material away, no way around it.

Oh, and your knife looks stunning, nothing less than I expected from HI in general, and Sher in particular.
 
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Moonw said:
From my experience (and others'): it's possible that during the buffing process the edge overheats - this results in usually less than a mm of softer steel, that the first or second sharpening will take away and then you hit the properly hardened material. To complicate matters, during forging, from my understanding if the blade has been overheated, the metal loses some of its carbon content (along the edge) - this process is called decarburization. Thus, this second aspect concerns the satin-finished knives as well. This usually results in very very small edge rolls that should go away once you get to the thoroughly-hardened core, and is not the same thing as a heat treat failure.

Now, I initially thought that this could happen only in custom blades, but I read Cliff Stamp saying that he is usually reserving two or three sharpenings before he makes up his mind about a knife, as production blades might present the same issue.

This is from my research on this forum and others, someone please correct me if I am wrong in any detail. I can see why an annealed through buffing or decarbed edge would wear off quicker, but this should become a non-issue.

I would rather be curious if anyone here managed to sharpen his kukri enough times to get past the hardened metal into the springy, softer steel behind it. I know edge lifetime can be preserved through steeling with the chakmak but sometimes you do need to take material away, no way around it.
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Moonw,your comment makes sense... What surprised me personally,how did Himalayan Imports managed to figure out mirror polishing along with prevention of this overheating effect on carbon steel,as edge retention seem to be very well holding up,despite this high gloss finish...It would be interesting to know,what way are Kamis polishing blades,i have seen few videos,they use buffing wheels,,,maybe they keep interupting the polish process with constant short breaks in between the buffing process,or just touch up the blades very soft way,not using much pressure on it....(just wondering)...For example if somebody look into most comprehensive and detailed polishing ever-polishing of Japanese samurai swords,this is done purely on whetstones and with natural small stones (i know this is completely different and very extensive process for one polisher and taking usually few weeks and can not be compared to any buffing wheel) - it is very clear,why Japanese swords do not suffer despite high gloss finish,as overheating is not any issue there,thanks to this very slow process And edge retention on Katana is possibly the toughest of all edged weapons/tools.
 
I guess cloth buffing wheels? Surely, stopping every now and then to prevent hit build-up (or soaking in some fluid? water?) could prevent that. Or using a lower spinning speed? I don't know how they are doing it. (In the case of decarb, I understand grinding off carefully some of the edge would fix the issue on the spot.)

Anyway, to completely ruin a blade, especially this thick I think it would require a bit of an effort on the over-buffing front...wish someone with more experience would enlighten us. Because what I *think*, is not what I *know*.

I'm not sure whether there's a single person doing all the polishing versus each kami for his own blades.
 
They use a large homemade flannel buffing wheel and stuff they call "magic stone" which is basically a homemade rouge.
One person usually does all the buffing, but at times others will rotate in to give him relief if he gets hurt.

The Kamis are well taught and well experienced blacksmiths, particularly with khukuri. They are taught by their fathers, as their fathers were taught before them into time immemorial. Most have been learning about it since they were old enough to walk and understand the teaching given. Most, by the time they are 20 years old, are at or near master-craftsman level in teaching even if their workmanship level isnt up to that par. Himalayan Imports hires only those with the best workmanship as kami. Others are hired as helpers and given the chance to learn better craftsmanship.
 
Karda said:
The Kamis are well taught and well experienced blacksmiths, particularly with khukuri. They are taught by their fathers, as their fathers were taught before them into time immemorial. Most have been learning about it since they were old enough to walk and understand the teaching given. Most, by the time they are 20 years old, are at or near master-craftsman level in teaching even if their workmanship level isnt up to that par. Himalayan Imports hires only those with the best workmanship as kami. Others are hired as helpers and given the chance to learn better craftsmanship.
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That's the way most true craftsman teach apprentices. You start by sweeping the floor and watch, watch , absorb, learn, watch some more... And maybe in a few years you get to pick up a hammer. All good shops teach in this manner in my opinion. The masters don't want to give there secrets and tricks to just anyone. They want to know you have a passion and true understanding of the work it takes to get the job done.
 
gurkha berserka said:
That's the way most true craftsman teach apprentices. You start by sweeping the floor and watch, watch , absorb, learn, watch some more... And maybe in a few years you get to pick up a hammer. All good shops teach in this manner in my opinion. The masters don't want to give there secrets and tricks to just anyone. They want to know you have a passion and true understanding of the work it takes to get the job done.
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Very true in almost all cultures and crafts that have apprentices but particularly so in sword and knifesmithing in the East. In Japan it can be literally years before you pass beyond setting up and cleaning up workrooms. And apprenticeship is considered short if it only lasts 7 years, though each is as long as that particular Apprentice/Master pair need for each step to be completely learned so some could be shorter many longer. Though even once you are passed as an apprentice it takes another certificate before you can setup your own shop. So it might be another 10-20years after apprenticeship before you are able to move out from under the supervision of your Master and have a shop of your own...if EVER.
 
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