Hickory n steel
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- Feb 11, 2016
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Lanyard tube.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
2018 Buck 110 Bucklite
- Thread starter Topgear9
- Start date
Lanyard tube.
Hickory n steel
Gold Member
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- Feb 11, 2016
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- 20,264
I feel the same way about screws, but I must say im sort of indifferent towards clips.
I have nothing against them but im not super into them or anything other than suspension clips on a few when other things will be in the same pocket.
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- Jun 9, 2011
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yes Sir. i get that. i just find screws easier to tighten up using locktite. where as pins and rivets can be done but not as easily for most.
pocket clips are a generation thing i guess. i started with pocket carrying slipjoints as a youngin. when pocket clips came out i switched and never really looked back. i find they carry a knife stable and easier to get to than pocket carrying. sheath is about the same and im okay with those as well.
guess buck needs to keep doing some of both to appease their current customer base and at the same time to bring in younger crowds. which they basically are doing both and thats good. i just like clips, so im gonna push for them. course easily removed clips are a win win. those who want them get them and those who dont can take 'em off and toss them.
BuckShack
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- Jul 19, 2015
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Clips allow easy access. Thumb studs/holes allow easy opening. Together they provide a quick one handed solution to many problems. I like this very much! I often carry a traditional knife too though, I like them too! So, I'm okay either way with this new knife.
One comment, my 110/112 Paperstone models have a metal frame under the scales. They have remained very sturdy, even with rivets. I would have no fear using them as ice picks if needed (no, I don't abuse my knives). My Bantams on the other hand have no interior frame. Over time mine have become a little loose. They are still fine for everyday tasks, but not for the serious work I want them to do. So, I buy another one. Maybe a screw would help. Maybe not.
One comment, my 110/112 Paperstone models have a metal frame under the scales. They have remained very sturdy, even with rivets. I would have no fear using them as ice picks if needed (no, I don't abuse my knives). My Bantams on the other hand have no interior frame. Over time mine have become a little loose. They are still fine for everyday tasks, but not for the serious work I want them to do. So, I buy another one. Maybe a screw would help. Maybe not.
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- Dec 8, 2016
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Clips, I agree, are a generational thing.
Us retired guys with many-pocketed pants and vests from Cabela's usually have four or five knives in our many pockets and at least one in a sheath on our belt (along with a gun or two).
We don't need no steenking clips.
Us retired guys with many-pocketed pants and vests from Cabela's usually have four or five knives in our many pockets and at least one in a sheath on our belt (along with a gun or two).
We don't need no steenking clips.
My fishing vest has 22 pockets. I still clip 3 knives. Right front pocket is a Camillus CUDA MAXX. Left front pocket is a Titanium Waiter. Shirt placket is a William Henry B-15.View attachment 815042View attachment 815043View attachment 815044View attachment 815045
View attachment 815077 View attachment 815078 The 110 series knives have 1/8” diameter pins/rivets in the pivot. The brass and wood models have a friction fit pin. The Bucklites, Selectors, and 560 Titanium folders have headed pins (rivets).
The blades swing on bushings that have a 1/8” diameter hole in the middle. Ideally the the bushing is immobilized. I use 2 different modifications to replace a pivot rivet/pin. One is a #5X40TPI screw anchored in a Helicoil. The other is an internally threaded 1/8” diameter barrel which takes 2-#2X56TPI screws. The #5X40TPI setup gives more clamping force. The screw set does not require the Helicoil tools and inserts.
I use #2X56TPI Helicoils for pocket clips. The first picture shows the 5X40 tools and parts as well as some knives modified thereby. The second picture shows the screw set mod with illustrative knives. The Helicoil bits in the second pic are for pocket clips anchored in plastic.
When putting pocket clips on metal handles, I usually just drill and tap the metal.
In the first pic, the Firex spotting drill is used to dehead rivets. The counterbore is used to sink the capscrew into the left bolster. The bolt cutter is used to trim screws to length. The special tap is just for the Helicoil. The special drill for said tap is not shown. I put a ball end on the Helicoil insertion tool.
In the second pic, the #2X56 bolt cutter is shown. The special Helicoil tap is shown but not the special drill. Under the tap is the tang breaker. After the Helicoil is inserted, the tang (which the insertion tool grips) must be removed. I usually put red Locktite on one side of the screw set effectively turning it into a T-nut.
The blades swing on bushings that have a 1/8” diameter hole in the middle. Ideally the the bushing is immobilized. I use 2 different modifications to replace a pivot rivet/pin. One is a #5X40TPI screw anchored in a Helicoil. The other is an internally threaded 1/8” diameter barrel which takes 2-#2X56TPI screws. The #5X40TPI setup gives more clamping force. The screw set does not require the Helicoil tools and inserts.
I use #2X56TPI Helicoils for pocket clips. The first picture shows the 5X40 tools and parts as well as some knives modified thereby. The second picture shows the screw set mod with illustrative knives. The Helicoil bits in the second pic are for pocket clips anchored in plastic.
When putting pocket clips on metal handles, I usually just drill and tap the metal.
In the first pic, the Firex spotting drill is used to dehead rivets. The counterbore is used to sink the capscrew into the left bolster. The bolt cutter is used to trim screws to length. The special tap is just for the Helicoil. The special drill for said tap is not shown. I put a ball end on the Helicoil insertion tool.
In the second pic, the #2X56 bolt cutter is shown. The special Helicoil tap is shown but not the special drill. Under the tap is the tang breaker. After the Helicoil is inserted, the tang (which the insertion tool grips) must be removed. I usually put red Locktite on one side of the screw set effectively turning it into a T-nut.