2020 GEC #62 Easy Pocket Congress and Pocket Carver Thread

Look at those blades! These are going to be so nice.
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Jiki said:
Look at those blades! These are going to be so nice.
JH1xngH.jpg
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I have a spring-liner gap in my Pemberton. I wonder if Mr. Howard could get a blade in that space, too?

Ive been looking at this for a while trying to figure it out: the secondaries snake around the main. To me it resembles the kind of accommodation a pen knife uses for a single spring, two blade configuration. I might guess krinked blades, but honestly I’m not sure I can tell how they did this. I’m pretty sure it’s a parallel spring setup with a catch bit. Asymmetric grind on the “carver” blades, maybe?

I have a case seahorse Whittler that I love, but the parallel double spring spacing (combined with the fat wharnecliffe they stuffed in there) means the secondary blades literally bend around the primary to open and close. I’ve taken to opening the primary first before opening/closing the secondary just to keep the blades from knocking together. A rather annoying feature on an otherwise well designed, beautiful knife.

what do you guys think? Kinda crammed in there? I’m not sure what I’ve been hoping for, but I wasn’t picturing that. Kudos to Mr. Howard for that “sardine-like” blade configuration. I’d bet that the double carver blade situation would have been the only one to fit in that tiny space.

edit: I’m calling it now- I bet there’s going to be lots of complaints about blade rub.
 
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As fine as these blades are, unless one exercises caution when opening, any of these knives will show blade rub. Lifting straight up will prevent it, but I'm usually just getting it out of the pocket and opening it.... not thinking "ok, gently lift straight up.." I've seen slight rub marks on a couple of my 62's. I'm certain the carver will be more rub-prone... and I'm perfectly ok with that. If I absolutely don't want blade rub, I'll leave 'em in the tube. :D
 
Hard to be certain from that picture, but it does look like parallel springs with a catch bit between the secondaries. As short as the main blade is, it shoudn't be a problem, but if you care about blade rub, don't buy it. That leaves more for me. Blade rub doesn't bother me unless it's severe enough to stop a blade from opening.
 
I don't think we can discuss exact pricing on here, but I assume the stags are going for slightly more than the camels? I might end up having to try to grab one of those, if there's enough to go around.

Of course, if Larry (boykinlp) was a really nice guy, he'd just sell me his....:cool:
 
hornetguy said:
As fine as these blades are, unless one exercises caution when opening, any of these knives will show blade rub. Lifting straight up will prevent it, but I'm usually just getting it out of the pocket and opening it.... not thinking "ok, gently lift straight up.." I've seen slight rub marks on a couple of my 62's. I'm certain the carver will be more rub-prone... and I'm perfectly ok with that. If I absolutely don't want blade rub, I'll leave 'em in the tube. :D
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Open the Large Blade first and then open the small ones . It is what I have to do with my 13's .

Harry
 
A
Old Engineer said:
Open the Large Blade first and then open the small ones . It is what I have to do with my 13's .

Harry
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also that’s what I’ve been doing with my whittlers, though recently I’ve discovered I don’t have to on my split back Queen #48. My Case seahorse Whittler requires it to keep from literally bending the secondaries around the main. The Apostle P calls it “whittler etiquette”. I think it’s fine if you want to prevent blade rub, but on a well designed knife it shouldn’t be required, as in the case of the Seahorse Whittler.
 
EngrSorenson said:
A

also that’s what I’ve been doing with my whittlers, though recently I’ve discovered I don’t have to on my split back Queen #48. My Case seahorse Whittler requires it to keep from literally bending the secondaries around the main. The Apostle P calls it “whittler etiquette”. I think it’s fine if you want to prevent blade rub, but on a well designed knife it shouldn’t be required, as in the case of the Seahorse Whittler.
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Agree with you . That is the price we have to pay to have a lighter knife . Myself , I would prefer to have thicker blades and thicker knives , but I don't whittle but very little so I really should have very little input if any , on a Whittler knife .

Harry
 
Just speculation right now on this particular knife. I know that GEC doesn't fail to amaze all of the time. We won't really know till we get them in hand. I for one I can't wait.
 
For what it's worth, I have a few GEC's with blades packed in there and no blade rub... I wouldn't speculate off the production picture.
 
... but if we’re not speculating then there goes 41% of the porch conversation!

I’m merely speculating for the thrill to see if I’m right. Blade rub never hurt a user knife anyway... and let’s face it, this one is designed for use.
 
EngrSorenson said:
my vote is squarely in the wharnecliffe camp. Sheepsfoot (feet) to me have a distinctive hard angle that runs uninterrupted to the point. Anything that soft and rounded just screams “wharnecliffe”.
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A Wharncliffe has a long continuous slope from the tang to the point, by definition! Every one I have ever seen, also!! I respectfully disagree , ES!!
 
Stropping Young Lad said:
Any Whittler or Stockman is prone to rub, it’s just the way it is. It won’t bother me the way Lockback blade play does, though.
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My experience, for what it's worth....of GEC multi blades has been very positive indeed: little to no blade rub including the single-spring Pen type knives- Conductor, White Owl, Churchill, Clerk, Easy Pocket. It's a mark of quality if it doesn't rub, if there is some it's OK so long as it doesn't impede 'talk' As for Lockback play, yeah well GEC doesn't cover that one quite so well, but doesn't bother me much ;):D
 
waynorth said:
A Wharncliffe has a long continuous slope from the tang to the point, by definition! Every one I have ever seen, also!! I respectfully disagree , ES!!
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I love the debate- your remark just made me pull out my Pemberton. Using a straight edge, I determined the “slope” doesn’t start until mid-nail nick. So to say all the knives you’ve seen always start the sweep at the tang is incorrect. (I’m sure you’ve seen this Pemberton!)

... then I went and checked my case tear drop wharnecliffe, my case swayback, my case mini-copperhead and my case seahorse Whittler to discover all four of these are just as you say- sweeping from the tang... so I see what you mean.

I shutter to think Case is the one of the two producing honest wharnecliffe blades, but at this point I humbly bow down to your traditional folder expertise.

though when I think of sheepsfoot blades I will say I know one when I see one, so maybe I could get you to buy the argument that a sheepsfoot is a more specific design than a wharnecliffe?

After all, I’m sure all the sheepsfoot blades you’ve seen have some ~60 degree departure at the tip onto a small flat on the blade before rounding over to the spine.

I’m just a guy with too much time on his hands that likes to discuss the finer points for fun.

Edit for clarification:
The Pemberton in question is the 060119: the single blade with the wharnecliffe.
 
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EngrSorenson said:
I love the debate- your remark just made me pull out my Pemberton. Using a straight edge, I determined the “slope” doesn’t start until mid-nail nick. So to say all the knives you’ve seen always start the sweep at the tang is incorrect. (I’m sure you’ve seen this Pemberton!)

... then I went and checked my case tear drop wharnecliffe, my case swayback, my case mini-copperhead and my case seahorse Whittler to discover all four of these are just as you say- sweeping from the tang... so I see what you mean.

I shutter to think Case is the one of the two producing honest wharnecliffe blades, but at this point I humbly bow down to your traditional folder expertise.

though when I think of sheepsfoot blades I will say I know one when I see one, so maybe I could get you to buy the argument that a sheepsfoot is a more specific design than a wharnecliffe?

After all, I’m sure all the sheepsfoot blades you’ve seen have some ~60 degree departure at the tip onto a small flat on the blade before rounding over to the spine.

I’m just a guy with too much time on his hands that likes to discuss the finer points for fun.
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The Pemberton's secondary is a coping blade, not a wharncliffe.
 
Well here is a warncliffe from the source (Sheffield itself and the knife designed by the Earl of Warncliffe himself the Ettrick). The spine does come out parallel to the nick before it begins it's gentle slope to the point. Just to add some information to the conversation. Today's carry BTW.
I6SOXyq.jpg
 
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