- Joined
- Oct 9, 2011
- Messages
- 2,189
my Case soddie happens to be perfect.
As far as the Buck amd Case go, SEND THEM BACK!
They are under warranty.
As far as the Buck amd Case go, SEND THEM BACK!
They are under warranty.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
3 new traditionals, one disappointed knife fan
- Thread starter clich
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2011
- Messages
- 6,901
Damn. The flood gates opened up didn't they. I wasn't even following this thread since I do most of my browsing from tapatalk on my phone and for some reason this thread wasn't in my "participated" list and I forgot about it and I'm sorry I did.
Just an update, the 110 is on its way to buck, the case is still here and I've decided that its not worth sending it out. The buck creek is just a nice looking knife and is going in the collection so the wacky grind isn't really an issue. I did get the 2005 bulldog brand and its absolutely perfect. I got a bunch more slippies coming from case, gec, kabar and more so we will see how they stack up. Good conversation though.
Just an update, the 110 is on its way to buck, the case is still here and I've decided that its not worth sending it out. The buck creek is just a nice looking knife and is going in the collection so the wacky grind isn't really an issue. I did get the 2005 bulldog brand and its absolutely perfect. I got a bunch more slippies coming from case, gec, kabar and more so we will see how they stack up. Good conversation though.
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2011
- Messages
- 2,189
As long as you aren't too OCD the Case should be a good user 
Hope Buck treats you right. They usually do.
Hope Buck treats you right. They usually do.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,534
If you use that Sod Buster on a regular basis, I think you'll begin to see it's value & character emerge. I've always viewed this model as 'that one knife' that most won't be afraid to use, straight out of the box. I still believe that was Case's original intent with this pattern; to build an accessibly-priced knife that's meant to just work, with absolutely no designed-in pretense about being 'pretty'. Other Case models, with their polished bolsters and scales of bone, stag, etc., are sometimes a little more difficult to deliberately scuff 'em up. I can understand why many would want them to be as pristine as possible, at least at the start.
That imperfectly ground edge on the Buck Creek is something that I've come to view as an opportunity. Keep hanging around, and if you're ever inclined to do so, take advantage of all of the guidance here to put a new edge on it. There's great satisfaction in arriving at the point where you can put a superior edge on it by yourself, and you start looking for other 'imperfect' knives to do the same. That's what's been driving my interest for a while now.
That imperfectly ground edge on the Buck Creek is something that I've come to view as an opportunity. Keep hanging around, and if you're ever inclined to do so, take advantage of all of the guidance here to put a new edge on it. There's great satisfaction in arriving at the point where you can put a superior edge on it by yourself, and you start looking for other 'imperfect' knives to do the same. That's what's been driving my interest for a while now.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2011
- Messages
- 2,189
Or if you really want to you can Fisk it. I know you are familiar with that method.
I've owned and still own a few BUCK 110s, 2 made to my specs came from the old BUCK Custom Shop with Damascus blades.
Never had one with a loose blade, they've all been and those I still have are very tight to the bolsters to the point of needing regular hinge lube.
Rust on the lock spring I have actually seen and just chocked it up to a lot of carbon in the steel [not a bad thing] and going unused/ unmaintained for long periods in a humid tropical climate where I live.
I'd definitely send it back to BUCK, have them either tighten the blade or replace the knife as I'm sure they'd do for free especially if you can provide proof of recent new purchase such as an invoice from a retailer.
In all honesty I've seen the quality of BUCK going up recently, the Fit & Finish is actually better on the newer knives I've seen than on some older vintage ones dating pre-'86, so that's a bit surprising for a new BUCK 110.
Maybe because it was a demo, or display as you say, perhaps some heavy-handed customers trying to check for blade-play actually loosened the blade?
Whatever the cause, having purchased it new it should be tight, so sending back to BUCK with a copy of your receipt would most likely get it resolved.
This is a busy time of year for knife manufacturers, from what they've been telling me when I've called, so the turn-around time may be in the weeks before you get it back, but BUCK usually makes it well worth any wait.
Never had one with a loose blade, they've all been and those I still have are very tight to the bolsters to the point of needing regular hinge lube.
Rust on the lock spring I have actually seen and just chocked it up to a lot of carbon in the steel [not a bad thing] and going unused/ unmaintained for long periods in a humid tropical climate where I live.
I'd definitely send it back to BUCK, have them either tighten the blade or replace the knife as I'm sure they'd do for free especially if you can provide proof of recent new purchase such as an invoice from a retailer.
In all honesty I've seen the quality of BUCK going up recently, the Fit & Finish is actually better on the newer knives I've seen than on some older vintage ones dating pre-'86, so that's a bit surprising for a new BUCK 110.
Maybe because it was a demo, or display as you say, perhaps some heavy-handed customers trying to check for blade-play actually loosened the blade?
Whatever the cause, having purchased it new it should be tight, so sending back to BUCK with a copy of your receipt would most likely get it resolved.
This is a busy time of year for knife manufacturers, from what they've been telling me when I've called, so the turn-around time may be in the weeks before you get it back, but BUCK usually makes it well worth any wait.
Will Power
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 33,674
Interesting indeed! Modern equipment AND hand-testing.
"How you going to keep them down to just one Farmer, now that they've seen Victorinox?"
SAKs are like some other things I can think of, you just can't have too much!
"How you going to keep them down to just one Farmer, now that they've seen Victorinox?"
SAKs are like some other things I can think of, you just can't have too much!
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,534
That's the perfect complement and contrast to the Case "How It's Made" video.
Thanks Kevin.
Thanks Kevin.
Interesting discussion.
Paraphrasing Pirsig, Quality is that which produces peace of mind for the user.
This means there are no universals on such matters. We differ in taste, so I'll only speak for myself.
IMO, as a rule, I expect machine-made production things to have closer tolerances than human made production things. Robotics and computer-aided manufacture are just too good and can be ramped up to speeds that humans can't match. John Henry was a steel drivin' man but the steam driver beat him eventually. In the cycling world in the 70s, Raleigh bikes were a part of the bike boom and were hand made. Fuji (in Japan) made huge advances in computer controlled robotics and hand built production bikes just couldn't keep up.
So for me, this is the rub.
Option 1 - You can get incredible fit and finish from custom or limited production shops for a lot of money (e.g. GEC knives).
Option 2 - You can get incredible fit and finish from high tech modern robotic production machines for cheap (e.g. SAKs, Bucks [usually])
Option 3 - You can get less fit and finish from production level handmade shops or older machine made shops (e.g. Case?)
I'm not particularly moved by perfect fit and finish in knives (or bikes or cars). I care much, much more about functionality and who and how it was produced. Perfection leaves me cold, particularly perfection that doesn't have a direct bearing on real function. Don't get me wrong. I can't abide junk that doesn't work. But, I want quality that makes a real difference in terms of performance.
This is no indictment of the original post. Wobbly blades only get worse and if I had a Buck that wobbled, I'd send it back in a heart beat. Wouldn't worry 'bout that Sodbuster though. But that's just me. If anything bugs you about any of the knives, let your own personal peace of mind be your guide.
Paraphrasing Pirsig, Quality is that which produces peace of mind for the user.
This means there are no universals on such matters. We differ in taste, so I'll only speak for myself.
IMO, as a rule, I expect machine-made production things to have closer tolerances than human made production things. Robotics and computer-aided manufacture are just too good and can be ramped up to speeds that humans can't match. John Henry was a steel drivin' man but the steam driver beat him eventually. In the cycling world in the 70s, Raleigh bikes were a part of the bike boom and were hand made. Fuji (in Japan) made huge advances in computer controlled robotics and hand built production bikes just couldn't keep up.
So for me, this is the rub.
Option 1 - You can get incredible fit and finish from custom or limited production shops for a lot of money (e.g. GEC knives).
Option 2 - You can get incredible fit and finish from high tech modern robotic production machines for cheap (e.g. SAKs, Bucks [usually])
Option 3 - You can get less fit and finish from production level handmade shops or older machine made shops (e.g. Case?)
I'm not particularly moved by perfect fit and finish in knives (or bikes or cars). I care much, much more about functionality and who and how it was produced. Perfection leaves me cold, particularly perfection that doesn't have a direct bearing on real function. Don't get me wrong. I can't abide junk that doesn't work. But, I want quality that makes a real difference in terms of performance.
This is no indictment of the original post. Wobbly blades only get worse and if I had a Buck that wobbled, I'd send it back in a heart beat. Wouldn't worry 'bout that Sodbuster though. But that's just me. If anything bugs you about any of the knives, let your own personal peace of mind be your guide.
I just picked up a full sized sodbuster from a local thrift shop for $15. I have taken the perfect walk and talk of my sodbuster Jr's perfectly centered blades for granted... this big guy was loose. The blade's very sharp out of box edge would have beefed it into the liner if I hadn't immediately noticed the gaps in the backspring admiring it. Alot of blade play too obviously. I can sympathize, it was honestly very dissappointing. Luckily I was able to carefully smash the absolute bejesus out of it in the vice and that fixed 'er right up. This is not really something I mind doing, but it took a minute to muster the courage to wrap a brand new knife in leather scrap and crush it inbetween wood blocks to tighten the pivot. It might have spent a good while on the shelf instead of my pocket if I hadn't happened into this thread and read someone recommend a remedy I was considering. It's just what I needed to hear take a leap, otherwise I wouldn't have resurrected the thread for a thank you.
Even worse for us Eropeans.
First we have to pay almost twice as much for the same knife.
For example:
$50 for a Yella Soddie CV
$61 for a Yella Mini Trapper in CV
$57 for my Yellow CV Peanut
Second we have to pay a considerable amount to get the knife back from sending in(shipping/taxes)
And all three knives had loose and off centered blades and I had to hammer the bejezus out of the pivots to correct the play.
Too bad I think:grumpy:
First we have to pay almost twice as much for the same knife.
For example:
$50 for a Yella Soddie CV
$61 for a Yella Mini Trapper in CV
$57 for my Yellow CV Peanut
Second we have to pay a considerable amount to get the knife back from sending in(shipping/taxes)
And all three knives had loose and off centered blades and I had to hammer the bejezus out of the pivots to correct the play.
Too bad I think:grumpy:
So, after reading much of this thread, I took a closer look at the American Workman Sodbuster I just got the other day; and while the blade was centered fine, I did notice gaps between the brass liner and the backspring and also between the liner and the cover/scales on 1 side... not extremely large gaps, but you could see light and slide a sheet a paper through them.
I decided to call Case and inquire about the issue. I simply asked were those things typical of that knife, and was told by the repair shop "ABSOLUTELY NOT", and to send it in. Here's the problem I have with the resolution. I just paid $25 for the knife, and it was like this right out of the box; and now I have to pay an additional $5 to send it back in... so, ultimately, it's a $30 purchase.
I'm happy they're willing to repair or replace the knife; but if it's never been used and is faulty right out of the box, shouldn't they be paying the shipping? I know it's only $5, but that's not the point... the point is I paid for a new $25 knife; didn't get a new $25 knife; and now if I want the $25 knife I paid for, it'll cost me $30 and whatever time and trouble it takes to ship it and get it back. Definitely not cool.
I decided to call Case and inquire about the issue. I simply asked were those things typical of that knife, and was told by the repair shop "ABSOLUTELY NOT", and to send it in. Here's the problem I have with the resolution. I just paid $25 for the knife, and it was like this right out of the box; and now I have to pay an additional $5 to send it back in... so, ultimately, it's a $30 purchase.
I'm happy they're willing to repair or replace the knife; but if it's never been used and is faulty right out of the box, shouldn't they be paying the shipping? I know it's only $5, but that's not the point... the point is I paid for a new $25 knife; didn't get a new $25 knife; and now if I want the $25 knife I paid for, it'll cost me $30 and whatever time and trouble it takes to ship it and get it back. Definitely not cool.
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2009
- Messages
- 3,198
First. good for CASE for doing what they can to make that right. I am so used to folks here saying "bah! It's just a user, what do I care if the fit and finish is poor?" that I really don't even think of CASE or any others standing behind their product if it is a simple workingman's knife. Post after post after post here explaining how to lower the expectations on sodbusters and the like have got me into the herd mentality of not expecting much of anything from CASE on their regular production (not the Bose collab stuff) and nothing at all on the sodbusters.
If you bought the knife at a store and it was in that shape, take it back. If you purchased it online, you pay your money and take your chances. I buy a lot online (including the computer I am using now!) and I rarely, if ever, see anyone that will pay shipping both ways even if the product is defective.
Personally, if I could have a factory tuned knife for $5, I would probably do it.
Robert