3 winners by Bura for 4/16/3 -- Pix and good deals.

I saw a kagas katne at the convention that had a "white metal" handle. It looked like brushed cast aluminum that is popular for bathroom knicknacks and whatnot. However, a k.k. wasn't really big enough to get a good feel for the density.

lcs ended up with another white metal-handle a few months ago. Maybe he can tell us if it's light enough to be aluminum, or heavy enough for nickel-silver.

Edit
Here's the thread:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=225743&highlight=metal+handle

There's a closeup photo of the handle, and everyone refers to it as aluminum.
 
Well, I got the 'mustard' AK. When it gets here, I'll do my best to determine what the metal is.

If you have any hints on how to categorically tell the difference (other than lab analaysis) between aluminum and nickel-silver, please let me now, otherwise I'll have to guess based on appearance and experience.

Also, if you know how to re-dye REALLY yellow leather (yuck), I will be eternally grateful. I just hope none of the dye leaches into the handle before I get it.
 
Tohatchi says "lcs ended up with another white metal-handle a few months ago. Maybe he can tell us if it's light enough to be aluminum, or heavy enough for nickel-silver. "

Was wondering where that link was. I just reread it. I was surprised I wrote so much. Don't know what I could add.

BTW: Just handled the Chitlangi again. Handle is still cold!
:)
 
from Google search. (also has information on barettes! No, I don't know what the site is for...)

[Think I'd use something to tone down the yellow...thinner, mineral spirits, acetone?...then get leather dye from a cobbler and let it soak in. The hide is so thin...shouldn't take much either way. THEN apply neatsfoot or something like that to soften the fibers again. But..that's speculation. Good luck.]

Dyeing Leather: How Much Is Too Much?
by FAQ Files

QUESTION: While in the process of experimenting with Fiebing's Turquoise Dye on a ladies wallet, I wanted to tone down the color a bit. To make a long story short, right now i have five coats of dye using three different colors and i still DON'T like it! lol Anyway, my question is...how much or many coats of dye can leather take? Is it harmful to the leather after a certain point? Since the wallet in question has very little tooling, I am ready to "chop it." This is the second time this week that I am unhappy with the results. The other project was a set of four oak leaf coasters that really came out UGLY in color! Can only hope that someone "different" will buy them a some craft show down the road. lol Thanks in advance!
-Bud Hitchcock

Sounds like you need to get an airbrush and dye the large areas that way. With an air brush (and a lot of practice ;-) you can cover large areas with a light amount color quickly and EVENLY! :) I'm sure others will chime in with their experience on this. There are also some great articles in the LKB about airbrushing.
-Greg

You can put many coats of dye on leather, but each one will remove a little bit more of the oil in the leather, drying it out and causing it to crack. I'd suggest a light application of warm (Not hot enough to burn your hands) neatsfoot oil. When that dries wipe off the excess with a soft cloth and finsh with glycerin saddle soap or other leather preservative. Bee Natural makes some nice ones, as does Lexol.
I've had the problem you're talking about, colored it three times and it's still ugly! :) The only thing to do in that case is dye it black and toss it in the sale bucket. I'm always amazed at how many people want a finely tooled belt, then hide all that work by demanding you dye it black. Sometimes it's nice though. I've been playing with black antique over metalic acrylic colors. Some have turned out pretty nice. Hope that helps.
-Dave T.

Try to get Al Stohlman’s book on coloring, or Peter’s [Main].

...as Dave T mentioned, too much dye will certainly leach out the tanning oils that are in the leather to keep it flexible. Yet you do need good dye penetration, but rarely is it neccessary to have the leather dyed right through. Bridle leather is dyed through at the tanneries, but this is just a step in the process, and is followed by the addition of fat liquers to add flexibility and longevity (life) back into the leather.
You mention that you were experimenting with a ladies wallet...really, it would have been better to be experimenting with scrap leather. To go straight into a finished project with color is a dangerous move...and as it has turned out, you don' t like it.
Testing of new colors should always be carried out first...and remember each piece of leather will finish a slightly different color although the dye is from the same bottle. Turquoise will not be a true turquoise on veg tan leather...although it will be on white paper. The color is affected by the base...meaning that if your leather has oxidised (darkened by exposure to natural light) the color will be of a darker hue...it will loose its purity of color and appear 'dirty'. This is true when dying veg tan with yellow...some leathers are very tan in color to start with, and the yellow will always finish 'tan'.
All of the above refers to the use of spirit based dyes...this does not apply to acrylic paint. You also mention trying to 'tone down' the color...this does not work with some colors...they will only become darker...you can never make them lighter.
It is wise to dilute your dye...always start lighter...you can always strengthen the color later. The application of dye over a large area is best done with an airbrush as Greg mentioned...but this too requires some practice to lay down the dye evenly. Applying dye with 'clipped' fleece will work well if you apply it in different directions to ensure even penetration.
Always test your color on scrap (of the same leather)...and if in doubt, add solvent.
-Peter

Black or any of the darker brown antiques work real well over any of the acrylic colors. I use a lot of that type accents on my barrettes.
-Dennis Doaty Leathercraft
 
Kis,

Thanks a lot. You saved me a lot of Google-filtering.

Since I want a black or dark-brown color, I shouldn't have a coverage problem.

Or maybe I should strip the current leather off and make barettes out of it.

Worst case, I can always have Terry S. make a custom. The uniqueness of the blade might warrant it, anyway.
 
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