3d printable wave mod

silent john has a good point ,
printing is charged by a set up fee and cubic cm and these are pretty small .
im designing one for a ukpk right now that would be less than 2 cubic cm .
i found a high resolution printer near by me that charges around 7 buks set up an 50c per cubic cm thereafter .
still aluminum or g10 would be pretty cool too !
id be interested to hear if anyone has ideas of price on machine cost options ?
 
bradlox said:
silent john has a good point ,
printing is charged by a set up fee and cubic cm and these are pretty small .
im designing one for a ukpk right now that would be less than 2 cubic cm .
i found a high resolution printer near by me that charges around 7 buks set up an 50c per cubic cm thereafter .
still aluminum or g10 would be pretty cool too !
id be interested to hear if anyone has ideas of price on machine cost options ?
Click to expand...

Depending on the tolerances you give a shop, changes the costs. Also changes your fit.
 
seeing as how many different changes would need to be made depending on the knife also factors into cost.

but I agree on strength worries my szabo isn't exactly flying open like a breeze. I have to pull it pretty tough
 
I would like to have the parts "snap " together somehow zip tie style
Although that might make it a one way street . Im leaning towards torx screw
Constrution , i think if its the right kind of plastic it should thread ok and be Pretty tuff . Time will tell !
Im Just trying to finish up a design and find out if its printable .
stoked to get one done soon , ive been dreaming this up for a while .
Maybe ill do one for every knife ? !
 
what about a small screw for easy removal ?

here is a GIF of me waving my benchmade onslaught and then my szabo. you can see the szabo takes more force to open

bechmade-741-wave-o.gif


spyderco-szabo-wave-knife-o.gif


waving in reverse works better
szabo-knife-wave-opening-reverse-o.gif
 
bradlox said:
I would like to have the parts "snap " together somehow zip tie style
Although that might make it a one way street . Im leaning towards torx screw
Constrution , i think if its the right kind of plastic it should thread ok and be Pretty tuff . Time will tell !
Im Just trying to finish up a design and find out if its printable .
stoked to get one done soon , ive been dreaming this up for a while .
Maybe ill do one for every knife ? !
Click to expand...

I am thinking a screw would be best, perhaps a countersunk torx?

94414a106s.gif


I dont actually know the size needed, I just pulled a small screw drawing from mcmaster
 
You could also use a roll pin instead of a screw. This way you wouldn't have to worry about threads. Also, you could make a left or right side wave instead of making the material on both sides. That would also reduce the thickness.
 
I also really like the way that they did the wave on the Southern Grind/William Henry collaboration. Whenever I looked at my Benchmade Kulgera, I always wish I had some way to put a wave on the opposing thumb stud. Then I saw the Z10 and realized that someone else was thinking the same.

LJG-SG-110-K-2T.jpg

LJG-SG-110-K-4T.jpg
 
tokerblue said:
I also really like the way that they did the wave on the Southern Grind/William Henry collaboration. Whenever I looked at my Benchmade Kulgera, I always wish I had some way to put a wave on the opposing thumb stud. Then I saw the Z10 and realized that someone else was thinking the same.

LJG-SG-110-K-2T.jpg

LJG-SG-110-K-4T.jpg
Click to expand...

That's brilliant
 
Maybe a screw or roll pin as opposed to a snap, something that you can really torque down on. I have a spyderco pacific salt that i did a poor man's wave job on and since it has an oversized thumb hole I had to use three zip ties because they moved around too much (looks pretty cool though).

also an interesting idea... a 3D printed wave feature that could snap onto a thumb stud say like on a benchmade or cold steel. you wouldn't need to worry really about it moving around since it is fixed .
 
Last edited:
hurst. I use black wax rope as a backer for the zip. I also hear the zip up a little so it forms to the blade. I put mine on months ago and it's still going strong
 
im still working on some designs here , and learning how to get the model "water tight " and print friendly files .
theres so much free stuff out there . i am going to test my files on a program that tells you if there good to print .
bit busy with hols right now but i still plan on printing something as soon as poss .
as soon as i have an update ill put it on here !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top