4v, my experience with patina and corrosion in a Very wet environment.

Nice. I’ve had similar on D3V under the scales as well, though less severe. Blade itself looks new still. Slight darkening when compared to a pristine example.

Looks like 4V isn’t too bad at all. Thanks for taking the time to write this up.
 
JustinFournier said:
Nice. I’ve had similar on D3V under the scales as well, though less severe. Blade itself looks new still. Slight darkening when compared to a pristine example.

Looks like 4V isn’t too bad at all. Thanks for taking the time to write this up.
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Hey Justin, what caused the rust under the scales for you?
 
I use 4v in dry environment only. 3v for anything wet. Could use some frog lube under your scales and not worry too much about it. Your knife will smell like mint leaves lol.
 
XtianAus said:
Hey Justin, what caused the rust under the scales for you?
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I think just hand sweat and humidity. I never even had mine out in the rain. They always got wiped down. I live in the Pacific North West, so I think once a little gets started under there, it just grows from humidity in the air.
 
a film of Boeshield under the handle slabs is a good way to ensure no corrosion sets in there
 
Lorien said:
a film of Boeshield under the handle slabs is a good way to ensure no corrosion sets in there
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Ok, ok. I’ll give it a shot. I have 20 products that are similar and a never ending argument about products from firearms so one more won’t hurt. I like it leaves a wax layer. Neat idea. Are you using the bicycle one? Which one exactly?
 
boeshield is boeshield, so far as I know. It was formulated to keep their landing gear from corroding and is wax based
 
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Casinostocks Casinostocks
They are for me. I just had to reload the page. They did not work the first time I viewed the page.
 
But how did it cut/perform/retain the edge? How do you touch up the edge....or even need to?
 
Dawkind said:
But how did it cut/perform/retain the edge? How do you touch up the edge....or even need to?
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Ah yes, I forgot to add those little details...

The edge held up nicely. A toothy working edge (DMT Medium) would last easily until lunch without significant noticed degradation and by the end of the day would have me stropping on cardboard or hitting a steel twice. A higher polished edge (DMT EEF), would last until lunch with needing a quick cardboard strop once or twice, then two or three times on a steel/cardboard to get me to the end of the day.

Don't take my comments as meaning the edge was "dull", it would still cut fine, working edge, but fine. I am just Very particular about my edges, so I tend to be a bit fanatical when it comes to feedback from my knifes edge.

Edited for clarification and added to OP.
 
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NJBillK said:
Ah yes, I forgot to add those little details...

The edge held up nicely. A toothy working edge (DMT Medium) would last easily until lunch without significant noticed degradation and by the end of the day would have me stropping on cardboard or hitting a steel twice. A higher polished edge (DMT EEF), would last until lunch with needing a quick cardboard strop once or twice, then two or three times on a steel/cardboard.

Don't take my comments as meaning the edge was "dull", it would still cut fine, working edge, but fine. I am just Very particular about my edges, so I tend to be a bit fanatical when it comes to feedback from my knifes edge.
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What motivated you to use 4v in that environment, as opposed to something traditionally more corrosion resistant?
It sounds like you can make a more acute edge on the 4v. Have you you tried 3v in similar circumstance, and have you noticed any substantial difference in durability/edge retention with your level of daily use and care?
 
Packerrat said:
What motivated you to use 4v in that environment, as opposed to something traditionally more corrosion resistant?
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One of the primary reasons that I chose this knife is that though not likely to corrode as quickly as some other alloys (1095 for example), it is still prone to corrosion.

This past summer, I was laid up on medical leave due to a surgery on my foot, so I didn't get to put the knife through its paces in a hot, humid and sweaty environment (hiking, fishing, camping, yard work, etc). Since I plan on carrying this knife regularly, I wanted to see exactly how the knife would react in as inopportune atmosphere as I could manage. This meant I was barring abuse and seeing how the only elements I had at my disposal (aside from weather and perspiration) would affect the alloy.

Packerrat said:
It sounds like you can make a more acute edge on the 4v. Have you you tried 3v in similar circumstance, and have you noticed any substantial difference in durability/edge retention with your level of daily use and care?
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I have only used 52100, 1095, and 1084 in a similar role, though more beef was contacted. Ranked in terms of:
Edge retention: 52100, 1095, 1084.
Corrosion resistance: 52100, 1084, 1095

52100 (custom from Daado), 1095 (Becker), 1084 (custom I made)

These knives are barring the low end alloys that they use in Dexter-Russel, F. Dick, Ultrasource, etc, knives. They are generally low carbon and highly stainless.

If I am planing on using a knife for regular carry, it will see yard work, side jobs (fencing and landscaping), household utility, and a host of other tasks. Due to this, I want to know exactly how the alloy will hold up to water, salt, protein, veggies, perspiration, how does it handle staining, how easily the edge is maintained, does the edge break down quickly due to corrosion, etc...

Now that I have a firm grasp of what everything other than perspiration will do to the knife, I know what I have to do to care for and maintain it.

I am sure I can go a bit thinner (and I likely will). But I am going to wait and see how the knife handles small diameter wood processing (backyard fire pit) prior to doing so. I don't want to get used to a thinner edge geometry, just to have it kick me in the shins while camping in the spring.
 
Thanks for the info, NJBillK NJBillK . excellent experiment. I'm new to 4v and as a layman, I asked because I am trying to understand how dramatic the differences are between 4v and 3v with regard edge durability, and if someone like me who isn't pushing it to the limits of its capability would even be able to detect the difference. As I understand it so far- 4v grants a keener edge but needs a tune up more often, and has a greater risk of chipping in hard materials.

I may try out a 4v big knife for brush work, and am curious about the mileage you can get out of the 4v as compared to the 3v in wood and brush before needing to tune up the edge when not abused. Will it race through the first hour of kudzu then dull down rapidly, or will it hold its edge well as long as I don't smack into hardwood? would that eliminate 4v as a contender for a camp knife that does routine firewood prep, as Nathan seemed to imply in the 4v lc sale post- Or would it do just fine.... maybe just can't keep an edge as well as 3v after cutting through cinder block and other extremes testing? Need to get off my ass and do my own test.
Please continue to share feedback from your travels and tests. I'd love to hear how it does for you in the bush. Thanks again for the excellent thread!
 
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