4v, my experience with patina and corrosion in a Very wet environment.

One of the primary reasons that I chose this knife is that though not likely to corrode as quickly as some other alloys (1095 for example), it is still prone to corrosion.

This past summer, I was laid up on medical leave due to a surgery on my foot, so I didn't get to put the knife through its paces in a hot, humid and sweaty environment (hiking, fishing, camping, yard work, etc). Since I plan on carrying this knife regularly, I wanted to see exactly how the knife would react in as inopportune atmosphere as I could manage. This meant I was barring abuse and seeing how the only elements I had at my disposal (aside from weather and perspiration) would affect the alloy.


I have only used 52100, 1095, and 1084 in a similar role, though more beef was contacted. Ranked in terms of:
Edge retention: 52100, 1095, 1084.
Corrosion resistance: 52100, 1084, 1095

52100 (custom from Daado), 1095 (Becker), 1084 (custom I made)

These knives are barring the low end alloys that they use in Dexter-Russel, F. Dick, Ultrasource, etc, knives. They are generally low carbon and highly stainless.

If I am planing on using a knife for regular carry, it will see yard work, side jobs (fencing and landscaping), household utility, and a host of other tasks. Due to this, I want to know exactly how the alloy will hold up to water, salt, protein, veggies, perspiration, how does it handle staining, how easily the edge is maintained, does the edge break down quickly due to corrosion, etc...

Now that I have a firm grasp of what everything other than perspiration will do to the knife, I know what I have to do to care for and maintain it.

I am sure I can go a bit thinner (and I likely will). But I am going to wait and see how the knife handles small diameter wood processing (backyard fire pit) prior to doing so. I don't want to get used to a thinner edge geometry, just to have it kick me in the shins while camping in the spring.

I love this kind of testing and tester. :thumbsup: Please keep us up to date on your findings.
 
Will do guys.

My Uncle is an avid hunter, and before he goes out for his next trip, I will be trying to get the knife out to him.

I want to see how it does cleaning a deer, with the dirty hide, hair and bone contact.

If he bags one, I will ask him for a write up. He makes custom violin and cello bows, so he is very familiar with reading the feedback his hands offer. This should allow him to give a fairly good representation of what he exerienced.
 
Have you you tried 3v in similar circumstance, and have you noticed any substantial difference in durability/edge retention with your level of daily use and care?
I do not currently own any knife in 3v, nor have I in the past. My description and grasp of the alloy and it's attributes come from reading posts of others (including those from Nathan).

Thanks for the info, NJBillK NJBillK . excellent experiment. I'm new to 4v and as a layman, I asked because I am trying to understand how dramatic the differences are between 4v and 3v with regard edge durability, and if someone like me who isn't pushing it to the limits of its capability would even be able to detect the difference. As I understand it so far- 4v grants a keener edge but needs a tune up more often, and has a greater risk of chipping in hard materials.
As far as 4v vs 3v, I would probably state the differences a bit differently.
4V should have the advantage over 3V in keen edge taking, thinner operating and optimal edge angle and maintaining the functional cutting edge for a longer period of time in abrasive materials, though it would be more prone to chipping in an abusive or any role where sudden impact with a harder item is encountered (say cutting open mortar mix for concrete).

Tasks that I would favor 4V would be cutting cardboard, wood, any daily "regular household utility" cutting task (barring ground or dirt contact, dirty indoor/outdoor carpeting for example).

Tasks that I would favor 3V for would be cutting/trimming dirty wood, garden stakes, scraping metal, cutting where contact with gravel, cinder block, fiberglass could occur, cutting/prying out old window sills where nails could be present.

Nathan the Machinist Nathan the Machinist , if I am far off on my estimated uses, I would appreciate it if you could let me know.
 
Back
Top