- Joined
- Aug 24, 2003
- Messages
- 717
What is the concern with buffing? Getting a catch? Woodturning is an advanced eduction in that. It can be eliminated as far as the geometry goes, of course we all make mistakes, or wander.
A catch is when the object in contact with a spinning wheel has a pivot point such that if it is grabed, it's arc of rotation will force it deeper into the spining wheel rather than moving it clear of the wheel. With the catch the object loads up, and either breaks (you can break a finger real easy polishing on the lathe), breaks the wheel (you can break a bowl on a lathe, the "wheel", probably not a contact wheel), or throws one or the other, or both, apart.
It might be wise to spend some time buffing out a wooden knife just to get all the angles.
Also, I just got a cork belt for my 2x72, and of course all those trimite grits. Are they any safer to buff on, not having as much texture as a rag wheel? I also have a hard felt buffing wheel. I have rag wheels I use for buffing wood, though so far I haven't tried one on a knife.
What about clamping the knife, and buffing it with a polisher? I have one of those with two speeds, and a lambswool head. Sometimes that is the trick with power tools: Find out what works best stationary woorkpiece, or stationary tool.
I also have a bunch of natural and artificial Japanese wet stones. You can polish with those also. The thing about a bunch of forged knives that one sees, they have very soft contours, is it too difficult to buff these on anything hard? If one prefers harder shapes, some of which are proven cutters then maybe some of the harder buffers would be safe and effective?
A catch is when the object in contact with a spinning wheel has a pivot point such that if it is grabed, it's arc of rotation will force it deeper into the spining wheel rather than moving it clear of the wheel. With the catch the object loads up, and either breaks (you can break a finger real easy polishing on the lathe), breaks the wheel (you can break a bowl on a lathe, the "wheel", probably not a contact wheel), or throws one or the other, or both, apart.
It might be wise to spend some time buffing out a wooden knife just to get all the angles.
Also, I just got a cork belt for my 2x72, and of course all those trimite grits. Are they any safer to buff on, not having as much texture as a rag wheel? I also have a hard felt buffing wheel. I have rag wheels I use for buffing wood, though so far I haven't tried one on a knife.
What about clamping the knife, and buffing it with a polisher? I have one of those with two speeds, and a lambswool head. Sometimes that is the trick with power tools: Find out what works best stationary woorkpiece, or stationary tool.
I also have a bunch of natural and artificial Japanese wet stones. You can polish with those also. The thing about a bunch of forged knives that one sees, they have very soft contours, is it too difficult to buff these on anything hard? If one prefers harder shapes, some of which are proven cutters then maybe some of the harder buffers would be safe and effective?