I know you've seen the reasons listed a thousand times here, what is it you don't understand about them?
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52100 Paramilitary II for good measure
- Thread starter Nemo
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In a folder , is toughness really needed as much as it is in a fixed blade? Aside from one , all my fixed blades are 1095 (coated). So I can see where that steel is handy. Good for chopping and camping duties that require a good size blade that's easily sharpened in the field without the fear of chipping.
But in an edc folder (for my uses) , I don't see much need for such tasks. The corrosion issue alone in carbon steels seem to outweigh any benefit that they may have for my uses. Again FOR ME , I'd much rather take a top stainless with high wear resistance like S90V and S110V over top carbons like 52100. Just having to keep applying Tuff glide or Frog Lube is enough to turn me off. Of course , I live @ 30 feet from the Atlantic so it's quite s bit salty and damp here.
But a carbon steel with a DLC coating is a different story. I see the appeal there. Like the Manix M4 DLC.
Anyway , this is just my opinion. I'm not bashing carbon steels at all. To each their own.
Leftytwogunz
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I think the steel on my 52100 PM2 is beautiful and sometimes I can detect a slight, not unpleasant, scent from the steel.
Of course it cuts well and holds a great edge, is light weight and is super smooth, but the fact that it looks great and smells unique are added bonuses.
Of course it cuts well and holds a great edge, is light weight and is super smooth, but the fact that it looks great and smells unique are added bonuses.
I don't have a 52100 para2, but do have 2 customs and a military.
@Wolverine666 There's a lot more ways to stress an edge other than chopping (impact). I don't chop with my folders.
Corrosion is a non issues for me even though I live in a humid environment. The only oil my knives usually see is from oil stones or if what I'm cutting is oily. Rinse/wipe/dry keeps the corrosion at bay most of the time.
I would trade all my stainless blades for 52100 except for serrated H1 salts.
@Wolverine666 There's a lot more ways to stress an edge other than chopping (impact). I don't chop with my folders.
Corrosion is a non issues for me even though I live in a humid environment. The only oil my knives usually see is from oil stones or if what I'm cutting is oily. Rinse/wipe/dry keeps the corrosion at bay most of the time.
I would trade all my stainless blades for 52100 except for serrated H1 salts.
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That's cool. You dig 52100 and the like. I'm an S90V & S1110V guy. M390 too. They're all available on the sweetest Spydercos anyway. So let us enjoy what we like.
Yeah, I say if you're not seeing any chips, rolls, or premature dulling with stainless, then you're good. Unfortunately that's not the case for me.
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Just a guess...S110V?
That's just one of many alloys I've tried. Oddly, the best of the bunch so far has been s30v.
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I've always had great experience with Spyderco's S30V. I just appreciate the significantly longer edge retention of other steels if given a choice.
Right, it all depends on use.
We all have our preferred balance. Those "others" get damaged faster than s30v does with my use. I would spend more time on the stones with them repairing damage than sharpening s30v when it dulls. Since corrosion is a low priority for me, I can use a steel that both has long edge retention and a very stable edge that doesn't easily get damaged.
My 52100 blades don't have the edge retention of s30v, but it takes more to damage them and they take a quick screaming sharp super fine edge. I find s30v and other carbide rich stainless a little finicky/tricky to get to the same level of sharpness.
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I meant was it the S110V that chipped or something else. I have had no issues with anything other than S110V, and hence my curiosity.
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Yes , certain stainless steels can be a real bear to sharpen if you're not familiar with them. When I was first introduced to S30V back in 2009 , I could not for the life of me get a proper edge. It was much more difficult than 154CM (which is what I was used to using/sharpening). But after some practice , I nailed it.
I will say that out of the non-stainless/tool steels I've tried lately , I think Cruwear is decent overall.
Yes, s110v was one of the worst, but not THE worst of the bunch. In general, all stainless steels I've tried got damaged easier than non stainless. Of the stainless, s30v has been the best for me when it comes to the balance of chips/rolls/dulling.
With that said, I haven't tried the most recent s110v from Spyderco, which I hear has improved HT. I will try it eventually.
I have no problem sharpening the s*v steels, just gotta mind the tenacious burrs and wire edge that they're prone to.
I don't have any cruwear, but do have z-wear custom, which is similar composition, and it's excellent. Not sure how it would compare to commercial cruwear blades.
sharp_edge
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Good to know. How about the edge retention of 52100, say, as compared to s30v?
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Spyderco S90V is one of my absolute favorites, especially in stainless - way better IMO than M390, but one of the most amazing performers I've ever owned is the MT01 in 52100. I haven't bought myself a Para2 in 52100, though I will...so I can't say how this one performs, but that MT01 is so good that the little extra care is a small price to pay.
