6th knife 3rd with known metal actually finished.

And to fix my plunges I just ordered 2ea 1/16" X 3/8" x 6" tungsten carbide strips and will pick up some 1/2" x 1/2" steel tomorrow. That'll give me enough carbide to make 2 guides. The carbide with shipping was $26 and 5' of steel is $4. some JB weld and bolts I'll have 2 guides for less than $20ea... I've got some extra 1/4" pins for some 80 grade hooks laying around I can use for alignment pins.
 
On you handle finish can you feal the cloth, does it feel fuzzy? If so then you could try a superglue finish to harden the fabric and then sand and glue sand and glue. Keep doing this till you have the finish you want. It will come out looking like glass if done right.
 
So the problem def isn't the way I made my hadle material. It was the way I was finishing it. Cork belts aren't the way to go even up to 1000 grit. This is resanded from 500 grit to 1200 grit by hand. This is the highest grit I have at the moment. But def 100% better.





 
Yes. That is MUCH better. For canvas micarta, I go up to 500 and then hit the buffer with green compound.
 
the micarta looks much better. if you ever make any 3/8" denim scales, i would be interested in a few sets :)
 
the micarta looks much better. if you ever make any 3/8" denim scales, i would be interested in a few sets :)

Thanks John. I'm actually planning an making a second press for 3/8" material. When I get set up, I'll pm you, maybe we can work out a "trade".
 
If you want good laminated scales, you need to use good laminating resin.

West system 105 epoxy resin and the slow set 206, or extra slow set 209 hardener is what you want. Get the pumps for the cans, too. That assures the proper mix. The difference in the final product will amaze you.

When doing laminated cloth, the best method is to place all the cloth strips in a flat pan, like a disposable 9X11 aluminum baking pan. Mix the resin/hardener properly and pour all of it over the cloth. With rubber gloves on, take the cloth out one piece at a time, squeezing the excess resin out between two fingers. Place in the mold and stack. When done, all the cloth should be saturated with resin. Then press under as much pressure as you have. A ton would be minimum. Let cure under pressure for 24 hours. This is why you want the slow or very slow hardener ... to allow time for the resin to penetrate the fibers. The pressure and impregnated fibers make for a product where the fibers are bonded to each other, not just one layer of cloth glued to the next. If you are just layering up cloth with resin that is already starting to cure, you get a stack of cloth. If you impregnate the cloth, you get a solid block of laminate that will cut, sand, and polish as a unified material.

The knife is nicely done. My only comment for future reference is the logo is far too large, and the placement on the lower bevel is a bit distracting. A smaller logo placed in the top 25-30% of the blade looks better. When I have stencils make, I have them done in three sizes to allow for different size blades.
 
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Thanks for the comment Stacy. I def think better resin will give me a much better result. Getting the fabric 100% wetted out isn't a problem my original finishing not so much. I just went out this weekend and bought some small drawer stacks to organize my sand paper assortments so I have a drawer for each grit. One part of my shop/process I wasn't organized in, so this should help me with this stage better. I have all my sheath, pin materials, and etching tools organized now too. I agree the logo is too large, it was a learning process as well. I plan on getting more done, but have other thing more pressing.

So to my question regarding handle finishing. I want to upgrade my sand paper supplies. Currently I just have cheap HF sand paper and it's virtually useless although it does work. What brand and where is a good place to purchase sand paper. Also what grits should I go up to? I plan on doing wood in the future so how high do I need to go?
 
sounds good to me ! rhynowet is a good quality sandpaper, i started using it after watching nick wheeler videos. he uses it. it cuts longer and faster than the black autobody wet paper i had been using. i have heard black ice is another good brand, but i have not tried it.
 
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Black ice is good. It's easier to get in Canada than rhynowet. Personally, I like black ice in 120 and 220. For over 400, I prefer rhynowet. Either is good though. They're the best two sandpapers on the market. If I'm in a pinch, 3m is good stuff too, just not as good.

For grits, I start at 120, and have, 220, 400, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, and 2500.
 
Thanks for the input Warren I'm getting some more stuff in place as I really want to get something of great quality made for the kith. Just got my supplies in to make a couple carbide file guilds just need a new tap and odd size but for the guide pins. I'm going to really push myself and go all out on every step.
 
Check out Lee Valley for abrasives, if you can't get the black ice or rhynowet. They gave Hermes rolls in 2" wide in 120 and 220 that work pretty good. It has a thicker backing which is good for the corners where regular paper rips. They also sell 3m paper that is good, but not great. I buy my abrasives in full boxes. You go through a lot making knives. :grumpy:
 
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