$7 Edc?

[UnknownVT]

You can cut a lot with low end steel properly ground, you can't do a lot of extended work, but few people likely need the ability to cut many meters of thick cardboard without sharpening in a small edc.
-Cliff

Thanks for the encouragement Cliff.

I agree with you, that good geometry can make even lower end steel perform well - OK, "reasonably".

I consider myself a "lite" user - I am not forever cutting things or looking for things to cut - but when I do use a knife I expect it to be sharp and cut well.

This low grade steel cheapy does do that well - don't forget we're only talking about a 1 3/4 edged blade - so it's not exactly designed for heavy duty work.

I normally EDC a SAK - and find that more than adequate (it also has a home convexed edge) - this $7 EDC is just so I can carry a one hander - that's small enough not to raise eyebrows - and fulfills my need for a quick access knife.

For example I used it at a friend's dining table to open a food shrink-wrap package - when the host went to get scissors - so it wasn't even noticed until they saw the package was already opened......(and my knife clipped back in my pocket)

--
Vincent
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[Cliff Stamp]

I carry several knives of that type myself, usually it takes quite awhile before they are sharpened, and if you do a nice job on the relief, you can get away with touchups on the Sharpmaker for a long time before they need a serious sharpening. The problem usually is that low end steels tend to mean low end overall. A lot of people can't/won't reprofile either, and the majority tend to judge quality even based on initial sharpness. With a little effort though, and realistic viewpoints, much can be said about really cheap knives. Feedback on them is likely more relevant to the majority of people than the high end customs. They don't tend to baton well, or twists of any kind, but not everyone needs that. A lot of people often give the impression that low end means blunts instantly, but it isn't that bad, even with the really low end steels. We did use even weaker metals for a long time.

-Cliff

 

[UnknownVT]

the majority tend to judge quality even based on initial sharpness. ...............
A lot of people often give the impression that low end means blunts instantly, but it isn't that bad, even with the really low end steels. We did use even weaker metals for a long time.

Thanks for putting things into perspective.

This $7 EDC was blunt out of the package on both samples - despite the boast of "Hand-honed razor sharp" it didn't even cut hanging paper well.

However after my reprofiling to a convexed edge - it does cut very, very well - probably what people might call "scary sharp".

From my sharpening and seeing the burr roll/fold-over I know this has to be "soft" steel - probably as suggested 420J2 - which I'm almost "embarrassed" to write - but having used it for a month without any touch ups - the knife is still stunningly sharp - I do know if I cut cardboard or carpet frequently this is NOT the knife I would choose.......

But if anyone wants to know how "soft" this steel is -
I suggest pushing one's thumb hard against my edge and see if it will blunt....

oh, it didn't?

you can try again.....

--
Vincent
http://UnknownVT2006.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/

 

[Cliff Stamp]

From my sharpening and seeing the burr roll/fold-over I know this has to be "soft" steel - probably as suggested 420J2 - which I'm almost "embarrassed" to write - but having used it for a month without any touch ups - the knife is still stunningly sharp - I do know if I cut cardboard or carpet frequently this is NOT the knife I would choose.......

Yes, I just did a run with a 420 knife, the Point Guard, which they spec at 54/56 HRC, which is a bit high for 420 but the carbon content on that steel has a wide range so it is possibly though unlikely, in any case I was able to cut about 4 meters of 1/4" double ridged cardboard on a slice through the ridges at about 30 cm per second, using only 3 cm of blade.

Now this is blown away by high end steels many times over, but forgetting that comparison and just evaluating the numbers, that is a decent amount of cardboard. This is with a custom edge, reprofiled and honed, the stock edge would not come close. How many days does the typical small EDC run through before it cuts that much abrasive material?

-Cliff

 

[UnknownVT]

Yes, I just did a run with a 420 knife
Now this is blown away by high end steels many times over, but forgetting that comparison and just evaluating the numbers, that is a decent amount of cardboard.
How many days does the typical small EDC run through before it cuts that much abrasive material?

Yes, I saw that .... Again it is all perspective.

However this makes a very good case for those harder grade disposable blades for utility/boxcutter knives that you told me about.

But changing a blade is not such a hardship - perhaps that's why I (and probably many others) didn't even know about the better grade blades... and like razors - most of the profits are made selling refill blades.

--
Vincent
http://UnknownVT2006.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/

 

[Cliff Stamp]

It will take quite awhile for them to make inroads and now they have to compete with the disposable cutters which store blades in them and make it trivial to replace blades. The heavy duty Olfa's were always used around here, I bought an x-heavy duty one a few years back and loved it over the heavy duty. My brother picked up one and the switch is spreading strong. They are so much more capable due to the thicker blade stock. I don't think they will ever get made in better steel due to how they are used, but the carpenters knives with the non-snap off blades are used in a different manner. I do know a guy locally who not only sharpens them but reprofiles them.

-Cliff

 

[inspira]

It will take quite awhile for them to make inroads and now they have to compete with the disposable cutters which store blades in them and make it trivial to replace blades. The heavy duty Olfa's were always used around here, I bought an x-heavy duty one a few years back and loved it over the heavy duty. My brother picked up one and the switch is spreading strong. They are so much more capable due to the thicker blade stock. I don't think they will ever get made in better steel due to how they are used, but the carpenters knives with the non-snap off blades are used in a different manner. I do know a guy locally who not only sharpens them but reprofiles them.

-Cliff

I'm guilty of that. My x-acto blades are convex ground =) I get much more out of my blades than throwing them out, its very easy and quick to sharpen them too.

 

[UnknownVT]

I'm guilty of that. My x-acto blades are convex ground =) I get much more out of my blades than throwing them out, its very easy and quick to sharpen them too.

I think you should be applauded for doing this in a disposable society -
it may interest you that our friend Don Luis actually strops those double edged razor blades - see Post #28 (linked) in this thread - Multi-Blade Razors

You guys have convinced me enough to try to re-sharpen my "disposable" utility blades......

The heavy duty Olfa's were always used around here, I bought an x-heavy duty one a few years back and loved it over the heavy duty.
I don't think they will ever get made in better steel due to how they are used, but the carpenters knives with the non-snap off blades are used in a different manner. I do know a guy locally who not only sharpens them but reprofiles them.

Do you know what steels are actually used in the Olfa's and the Stanley utility blades?

Thanks


--
Vincent
http://UnknownVT2006.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/

 

[Cliff Stamp]

No, but based on how badly they rust if left wet, and in general based on ease of heat treating and cost I would assume a very low alloy carbon steel.

-Cliff