710 Barrel Spacer mod?

I just came upon this thread because I just got my first (brand new) 710 and I look at the spacer and it has that line.

So I will send it in to BM.

Are the barrel spacers pretty cool looking? I haven't seen a 710 with them yet.

I hope they will install them on mine since it is a unused knife except for me opening and closing. I hate to be without it since I just got it.

anyone know the turn around time?

Also do I have to call them first and get a reference number or can I just mail it in with a note?
 
You'll need to fill out the Warranty Service Form, here: https://www.benchmade.com/services/warranty.aspx
Print it, then send it, along w/ the knife, to the address provided.
Turnaround time, on the two knives I've sent to BM, averaged 2 to 2 1/2 weeks.
The standoffs are just plain jane ss barrels.


BM710D2 by jeronsewell, on Flickr

BM710D2 by jeronsewell, on Flickr

JS

thanks for the info


...and the pics!


I just sent mineoff today...turns out it had an uneven dge grind on it and the lock was crooked as well...


guess I got a lemon.:(
 
Here's that same 710 that was pictured above.
The blades not hitting anything now that it has standoffs....

 
Here's that same 710 that was pictured above.
The blades not hitting anything now that it has standoffs....


What a sexy knife, those backspacers do a lot to add to the overall presentation of the knife.
 
Here's that same 710 that was pictured above.
The blades not hitting anything now that it has standoffs....


Are those the same barrel spacers that BM puts on the knives now? Or are those after market?

Also if the kni fe is hitting the backspacer does that mean installing your won standoffs will prevent the balde from hitting them? Of is that an adjustment BM need to make?
 
Are those the same barrel spacers that BM puts on the knives now? Or are those after market?

Also if the kni fe is hitting the backspacer does that mean installing your won standoffs will prevent the balde from hitting them? Of is that an adjustment BM need to make?
No, those are not BM's standoffs.
So, far every BM I get that's hitting the back spacer.
Doesn't hit anything after I'm done with my MOD's.
"He said as he knocked on the wooden table" ;)
 
I am thinking about getting a 710. I have wanted one for over a year now, but just never crossed it off my WTB list.

Anyway, is there a place that I could buy the standoffs?

Anyone know what size I would need?

I much prefer open construction and would rather not send a new knife back to Benchmade.
 
.165"
The place that sells knife kits has them with a throat/neck(stepped) and with out a throat/neck(ringed).
I like the stepped ones better visually(that's what is in the above picture) .
So, I buy them and remove the neck.
Be careful, this is very hard to do free hand (I created a tool for this).
It's almost impossible to keep the end square.
 
These work perfectly with no modifications required.

I am thinking about getting a 710. I have wanted one for over a year now, but just never crossed it off my WTB list.

Anyway, is there a place that I could buy the standoffs?

Anyone know what size I would need?

I much prefer open construction and would rather not send a new knife back to Benchmade.

.165"
The place that sells knife kits has them with a throat/neck(stepped) and with out a throat/neck(ringed).
I like the stepped ones better visually(that's what is in the above picture) .
So, I buy them and remove the neck.
Be careful, this is very hard to do free hand (I created a tool for this).
It's almost impossible to keep the end square.
 
JNewell-I have taken much of your advice and information to heart. Much thanks! Regarding those spacers, do the stock screws work?
 
.165"
The place that sells knife kits has them with a throat/neck(stepped) and with out a throat/neck(ringed).
I like the stepped ones better visually(that's what is in the above picture) .
So, I buy them and remove the neck.
Be careful, this is very hard to do free hand (I created a tool for this).
It's almost impossible to keep the end square.

These work perfectly with no modifications required.

Thanks for the info guys!:thumbup:

Now, off to order my 710 and standoffs!
 
When the spacer went bad, (cracked) on my AFCK I made my own out of aluminum round stock, cut to length and drilled and tapped them, looks get and have had no problem since, ( that was nearly 10 years ago).
 
These work perfectly with no modifications required.
Those are the ringed ones ( no neck) that I was talking about.
I did not think a direct link to knife kits was permitted.


JNewell-I have taken much of your advice and information to heart. Much thanks! Regarding those spacers, do the stock screws work?
Yes.
The OEM screws thread into the captive nuts in the opposing scale.
So, the standoffs don't really need to be threaded.
But, they are.

The back spacer can be removed without fully disassembling the axis lock.
Take the pivot and blade out of the handle.
Remove the two screws that are going through the back spacer.
Swing the tail end of the back spacer out back of the knife.
The spacer will still be held in place by two platic posts that go into the liners on both sides of the knife.
Now grasp the end of the spacer that is sticking out the back and twist it and gently pull.
Trust me, twist.
The back spacer should pop right out.
If you try this with out removing the blade first, then there won't be enough space between the liners to perform this move.
It's either this way or you need to fully diassemble the axis lock.
 
^^ More great info, thanks!

Using your measurements I found some plane standoffs that look like the ones Benchmade uses, not as nice as the ones above, but they were only six dollars shipped.

Also ordered my 710, should get it and my spacers by Thursday:D
 
^^ More great info, thanks!

Using your measurements I found some plane standoffs that look like the ones Benchmade uses, not as nice as the ones above, but they were only six dollars shipped.

Also ordered my 710, should get it and my spacers by Thursday:D
Good deal!
 
JNewell-I have taken much of your advice and information to heart. Much thanks! Regarding those spacers, do the stock screws work?

Yes, no problems or machine work required. You've already seen Keyman's great post on removing the backspacer below. :thumbup:
 
Those are the ringed ones ( no neck) that I was talking about.
I did not think a direct link to knife kits was permitted.



Yes.
The OEM screws thread into the captive nuts in the opposing scale.
So, the standoffs don't really need to be threaded.
But, they are.

The back spacer can be removed without fully disassembling the axis lock.
Take the pivot and blade out of the handle.
Remove the two screws that are going through the back spacer.
Swing the tail end of the back spacer out back of the knife.
The spacer will still be held in place by two platic posts that go into the liners on both sides of the knife.
Now grasp the end of the spacer that is sticking out the back and twist it and gently pull.
Trust me, twist.
The back spacer should pop right out.
If you try this with out removing the blade first, then there won't be enough space between the liners to perform this move.
It's either this way or you need to fully diassemble the axis lock.


Thanks for the tips Keyman!:thumbup:

I got my 710 in and immediately took it apart and put the standoffs in; which was smooth sailing thanks to your instructions.

Now I am wondering if I dare to attempt the famous Keyman handle holes.:eek:

I might try those after I actually carry the knife a week or two. lol
 
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