710 Barrel Spacer mod?

I am looking at doing the Standoffs too. What are the proper screws want to convert to stainless. Same info is needed for the pocket clip.

Thanks!
 
charger22 said:
I am looking at doing the Standoffs too. What are the proper screws want to convert to stainless. Same info is needed for the pocket clip.

Thanks!
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Not sure about the length, I would need to measure the original ones.
But you'll be looking for a 2-56 thread.
If it's the look you are going for; you could polish the originals.
They do satin out nicely.
 
Mine are in....Thanks for the instruction. Have one little adjustment to make. Think I want to Drill out the Stud so it no longer is threaded as the back seems to have trouble lining up to match the stud threads and the scale threads......don't know if I am missing something first though, but there is a small gap I can't quite make up......
 
Yea I had that same problem so I knocked out the captive nuts and put a short screw in from each side, that way each side could be individually tightened down.

That did two things- I didn't have to drill out the brand new stand off's and it was symmetrical from side to side.
 
Cereal_killer said:
Yea I had that same problem so I knocked out the captive nuts and put a short screw in from each side, that way each side could be individually tightened down.

That did two things- I didn't have to drill out the brand new stand off's and it was symmetrical from side to side.
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Great Idea C_K......What size screws did you order? I know the thread 2-56 what length?
 
1/8" is perfect, 1/4" will work if you grind them down a bit (and then fix the thread with a die/file). I didnt have 1/8" 2-56 so I just filed my 1/4" ones down till they weren't bottoming out against eachother inside the stand off anymore.

The captive nuts tap out easily enough and the hole's under them are stepped same as the original screw side.


Another idea if you don't have a die or small enough file- tighten the old captive nut down onto the strew's before you shorten them then when you screw it off it'll fix the thread.
 
Keyman said:
Those are the ringed ones ( no neck) that I was talking about.
I did not think a direct link to knife kits was permitted.



Yes.
The OEM screws thread into the captive nuts in the opposing scale.
So, the standoffs don't really need to be threaded.
But, they are.

The back spacer can be removed without fully disassembling the axis lock.
Take the pivot and blade out of the handle.
Remove the two screws that are going through the back spacer.
Swing the tail end of the back spacer out back of the knife.
The spacer will still be held in place by two platic posts that go into the liners on both sides of the knife.
Now grasp the end of the spacer that is sticking out the back and twist it and gently pull.
Trust me, twist.
The back spacer should pop right out.
If you try this with out removing the blade first, then there won't be enough space between the liners to perform this move.
It's either this way or you need to fully diassemble the axis lock.
Click to expand...

Will this trick work with the 707 as well? Mine seems to be hitting the plastic back spacer, want to remove it and sand it down a little. I spoke with Benchmade and they said I could send it in and theyd remove more material off the blade so it didn't hit LOL no thanks.
 
Redmasta said:
Will this trick work with the 707 as well? Mine seems to be hitting the plastic back spacer, want to remove it and sand it down a little. I spoke with Benchmade and they said I could send it in and theyd remove more material off the blade so it didn't hit LOL no thanks.
Click to expand...

This trick is not necessary with the 707.
The backspacer is different & comes out very easily once the two screws are completely removed.
 
Cereal_killer Thanks for the double screw idea worked like a charm.....only thing I am waiting on now is the Deep pocket clip from the 810 contego that Benchmade is sending me. The Awesome woman from Customer service said it could take a couple weeks but they are sending it free. I told her I was willing to pay. Great company to deal with.
 
My 810 clip arrived.... it is black though and I wanted it bare. Any tricks to make the finish match my blade as close as possible? Do you guys chemical strip the black first then polish?
 
If I am removing black, I'm usually aiming for satin.
I use the dremel with a polishing wheel Felt/cloth and some metal polishing rouge.
I just polish it off.
I dont know the name of the metal polishing rouge that I have is, it's blackish in color.
But, I can get a mirror finish in just a couple minutes.
 
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