A bit rough on the outside

Dave , do different Saddle makers have their own ideas and designs in regards to layout , fit , shape , dimensions and hardware?
Or is there a sort of standard Saddle that is then individualised with materials and tooling etc ?

Ken
 
Okay, okay, you win. Apparently you do have a head, although it could be photoshopped. I'm reserving critical judgment for future plausible outcomes. :suspicious:

Good call on the heels down. I remember that from riding lessons. Clench your thighs! Heels down! Was a cool cowgirl taught my whole family.

A lot of guys wear boots around here that seem to be more for working at the dairies than riding, although I'm sure they work in a pinch, ropers maybe? I think they have shorter heels. I'd feel goofy in anything with more than an inch heel just because of my height. They seem slippy too with the flat sole, but I couldn't say for sure.

I think I may do a rough out pouch and stamp it. Lots of win in this thread.
 
Ive been trying a few different lanyards on this sheath and so far the simplest is still the best .

This is my latest and final version which will be what I will use from now on .




Ken
 
I had a piece of scrap leather 3 layers thick that was glued together , so I just drilled a small hole and then used a hole punch to make a 3 layer deep leather lanyard bead :)

Ken
 
I have an affinity for stacked leather. ;)

0BC6iYM.jpg


I may have to steal your idea, but for my own knives. :)
 
Ken you nailed it again on this one!!!! There are different saddle styles, a lot of which is based on what the saddle will be used for. A cutting saddle (like Paul use to build) is completely different and built differently than say one of these saddles I've pictured. These are called Wade saddles which comes from the name of the tree that the saddle is built on. These are great for genieral riding and ranch work but you will have regional differeces too. A ranch cowboy in Texas or Arizona will likely ride a different type of saddle because even though they do similar work their conditions are different and how they do that work is different. Thank you would have different sizes of seat. Nichole rides a 15" and mine are 16". Individual after that and certain saddle makers will have their own style and specialty.
 
Harronek, Horsewright, others -

I'm intrigued enough with this rough-out style to try it on a sheath I have on the bench right now. I'm using W&C 6/7 oz and I just want to do the rough-out on a couple of parts of this sheath. I usually dye with Fiebings then finish my sheaths with a good rubbing of mink oil. Would this process be suitable for rough-out leather? A better method?

Thanks,

Peter
 
Peter I'm not qualified to comment , so I'll be very interested to hear from Horsewright and maybe Paul Long who have real time experience with Rough out .
I just treated it like I any other leather I work with , but have no idea if that was right or wrong .
I love to see anything you come up with , please post pics .

Ken
 
Quite q bit off topic of sheaths, but here is the last cutting saddle I made and it happened to be for me. 17" flat seat with in skirt rigging. Hasn't been off that saddle stand for over 10 Years.:(

Paul
 
sheathmaker said:
Quite q bit off topic of sheaths, but here is the last cutting saddle I made and it happened to be for me. 17" flat seat with in skirt rigging. Hasn't been off that saddle stand for over 10 Years.:(

Paul
Click to expand...

I've sat here for about 30 minutes studying that photo .
I have spent nearly as long trying to imagine the overwhelming satisfaction and sense of accomplishment that must be felt when you know " you made that "
I take my hat off to you , that is a wonderous thing .


Ken
 
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Nice saddle Paul!! See Ken a completely different saddle for a completely different job. You try to ride my saddle on a finished cutting horse and you'd probably end up on your head in the arena sand while the horse is down the way working the cow with out you.

Peter I can't remember ever using dye on roguhout. I'd work on a scrap piece first to make sure it didn't get too blotchy. That would be my concern. If it would work for you then you might try your mink oil. My concern with it would be that as a heavier oil would it lay down the nap so much on the roughout you wouldn't be able to tell much difference between that and the rest of the sheath if that were the idea. I just oil rougout with warm neatsfoot oil. I enjoy the pics of your work that you post.
 
I have a question about nap. The majority of my leather right now seems to have been buffed or sanded? It's really smooth and feels about like the smooth side.

Why have I had really nappy stuff, but this is so different? Is buffed the correct term, and if so, how is it achieved? I guess I could rough it up to get some nap back.
 
Try Sno-Seal. It is a beeswax product. Apply it with a clean washcloth and work it in with a blow drier until it melts and work it into the leather. It will restore those tore-up areas as well as water proof the leather. It wont hurt your knife either.
 
I never thought about this before however, I´ve seen it done. What I most like is the contrast between the roughout side and the topside on the saddles. Beautiful in one word. Gives me a lot of ideas. I like your sheath very much harronek, very nice stitching, nicely formed, very proffesional. I love it, happy newyear:thumbup:
 
I recently bought a Svord Mini Peasant knife ,.
The short version of all this is that even though I live in Australia I am actually a Kiwi ( New Zealander ) I owned a Peasant Knife years ago when Brian Baker first started making them , back then it was only wood for the handle and there was no Mini version , I dont think they were exported and they were just thought of as local knives , made in New Zealand by the guy up the road .
I carried that knife as my EDC for about 2 years , but then flashier , better , more expensive knives caught my eye .
I have a Custom Friction Folder coming so I thought that while I wait for it I'd just buy a Svord to reacquaint myself with the secret world of " Friction " .
After carrying the thing for a few days I'm loving it , so its only natural that I would make a sheath for it .
This knife is just a worker , you know what I mean , if it was human it would wear Wranglers , drink Beer , drive a truck not a car , watch Football , and have dirt under its fingernails .

Roughout was the only option , nothing else would be right .







Ken
 
Really nice Ken haven't tried one of those folders yet, had a friction folder by Otha and should have kept it! but didn't...

NOW, ya drop a sneaky few words in there about a custom friction folder coming ;) that wouldn't be from South Africa by any chance? :)

G2
 
harronek said:
I recently bought a Svord Mini Peasant knife ,.
The short version of all this is that even though I live in Australia I am actually a Kiwi ( New Zealander ) I owned a Peasant Knife years ago when Brian Baker first started making them , back then it was only wood for the handle and there was no Mini version , I dont think they were exported and they were just thought of as local knives , made in New Zealand by the guy up the road .

Ken
Click to expand...

Here's one of the Svords I've redone for myself. I think it's a really cool knife and I may just try out your roughout idea for it...

Peasant2Small.jpg


Jigged bone handle scales, brass bolsters and mosaic pins. I used cold blue on the blade.
 
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