A Buck that stays Sharp?

bikerector said:
Or as Hickory n steel Hickory n steel mentioned, something with an interchangeable blade like a havalon.
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I was thinking more of an entire knife that just stays sharp for a very long time but can't be sharpened ( because he mentioned buying new knives just for the sharpness ), but practically and realistically speaking it would probably be something with replaceable blades.

On a side note I do not discard and replace my utility knife blade, I sharpen it.
 
bucksway bucksway what ya need is a spyderco sharpmaker. it's easy to use and understand. the 30 inclusive side matches Bucks factory edges most of the time. when it doesn't ya just adjust your hand angle to find the edge angle. the key to it is to touch up edges often not after dull, dull. it's what i use 90% of my sharpening. as I leaned long ago to touch up often instead of use to dull and resharpen.

on reprofiling it's no good. can be done with the diamond an lower grit rods spyderco sells, but takes forever and its just better to use diamond bench or sic stones and speed up the work and thats what I do. course there is other setups and systems and I've played with them all.
 
Old Biker said:
Bucksway with as many 112s as you own, I don't see what the problem is. When one gets dull, put it back in the display case, and take out another one. Should take years, maybe even decades or a lifetime to rotate through them all. 😇

O.B.
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^that's truth there😁
 
jbmonkey said:
bucksway bucksway what ya need is a spyderco sharpmaker. it's easy to use and understand. the 30 inclusive side matches Bucks factory edges most of the time. when it doesn't ya just adjust your hand angle to find the edge angle. the key to it is to touch up edges often not after dull, dull. it's what i use 90% of my sharpening. as I leaned long ago to touch up often instead of use to dull and resharpen.

on reprofiling it's no good. can be done with the diamond an lower grit rods spyderco sells, but takes forever and its just better to use diamond bench or sic stones and speed up the work and thats what I do. course there is other setups and systems and I've played with them all.
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This is great advice. I struggled with sharpening and experimented with numerous methods but the Spyderco was a game-changer.

The 30° side really does match Buck blades nicely and the included stones do a decent job of touching up most steels. I did purchase the extra diamond rods. They work well on the S30V steel that gave me grief in the past (112 Ranger Pro).

I have two knives that need more reprofiling than I can do so I've got them set aside for dropping off at the factory when I pass through next year. I wish that I could use bench stones but my baby girl hands are no match for Jesse's XL mitts.
 
Jeff of the North said:
This is great advice. I struggled with sharpening and experimented with numerous methods but the Spyderco was a game-changer.

The 30° side really does match Buck blades nicely and the included stones do a decent job of touching up most steels. I did purchase the extra diamond rods. They work well on the S30V steel that gave me grief in the past (112 Ranger Pro).

I have two knives that need more reprofiling than I can do so I've got them set aside for dropping off at the factory when I pass through next year. I wish that I could use bench stones but my baby girl hands are no match for Jesse's XL mitts.
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yep on the sharpmaker.

and lol....

ya got that mitts things swapped around though. I ain't got no Canadian super sized hockey hands like ya do Jeff, wish I did though. I got the little girl sized paws.....
 
Buy an edge pro. With just a couple YouTube videos you will be able to sharpen almost anything.
 
Well..I DO rotate/use display a LOT of 112's and have for about 5 years. I have a core of about 25 (Mastodon, Ivory,Damascus and historical 112's) that I wouldn't use but Bucks SCARY sharp edge on most of the rest don't last long and frankly some were not all that sharp NIB. I'll try that Spyderco JB..
I really do understand knives must be sharpened. I messed up my BCCI BG42 301 but always kept one blade pristine. The point of this if anyone Can make a knife that will stay really really sharp with easy EDC use I think Buck can and should do it .
 
Maybe give a look at sandrin knives and their StaySharp technology. They use carbide blades, no idea on their toughness or how well they actually cut but they have more models than when I last looked, so maybe they are having success. Not cheap though.

I am not sure who sells them or if they are direct only, I never got past the aesthetics when they 1st came out with the torino.

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MT_Pokt said:
Ive been using the S90V 110 since i got it years ago, and the factory edge is still scary sharp. It's been through several deer, turkey, waterfowl, and everyday cutting. Really is the longest lasting edge I've experienced on any knife. I dread sharpening it.
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I have a Spyderco Military in S90V. In addition to the noteworthy wear resistance/edge retention, it seems to take an exceptionally sharp edge to start when compared to most other steels.
 
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