A Couple New Knives

Horsewright said:
Those are great Nic! I too am impressed by the finish on the wood handles. Good job. Not only do you keep improving but you are developing your own style. Those look like Nic knives to me. This is a good thing. On the sheaths we got to get ya an edger and maybe leave about a 1/10th of an inch border between your stitchline and the border stamp. A lot of folks will actually cut this border line with a swivel knife and bevel it and then hit it with a camo border tool. I don't as I feel the cut can leave to cracking on long hard use. But doing it certainly gives a very nice appearance. What is NWTF?
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Thank you Dave! I'll have to look into what an edger is. I have a stitch groover and an edge beveler?
NWTF is the National Wild Turkey Federation.
I appreciate the compliments, thank you!!
 
redsquid2 said:
That is it! These knives are visually graceful.

Also glad you are using 15N20. I keep hearing it does great on it's own, instead of just being a layer in damascus.
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Thank you! I'm liking the 15n20. From the testing I've done with it and, and testing others have done to it and I have read about, it seems to be a great steel on its own!!
 
sharppics said:
Im sure a lot of us would like to know how you finished the maple.
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It's a process!! After I do all my shaping and start to get into my final sanding, I "whisker" the wood. I use rubbing alcohol, rub it on the handle, let it dry then sand with 320 grit paper. Repeat this process of rubbing with alcohol and sanding until once you rub alcohol on you no longer feel roughness on wood ( usually 3 to 4 times). Then, I start wet sanding at 3:20 grit with Teak oil. Send in small circles and work up a slurry on the wood. Let it dry, then do the same thing with 600 grit. Then I do the same thing with 1500 grit but don't let the slurry fully dry this time. Use a rag to wipe off the slurry crossgrain. After this dries, rub oil on andlet dry and repeat until your happy! Then I'll typically put a coat of paste wax on it as well.
I typed that up really quick, so I hope that makes sense!
 
Thanks for the details Nic. I've got a lot of curly maple laying around but never can get it looking as good as what you have done with these. I'll try the teak oil.
 
sharppics said:
Thanks for the details Nic. I've got a lot of curly maple laying around but never can get it looking as good as what you have done with these. I'll try the teak oil.
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My pleasure! Feel free to let me know if you have anymore questions!
-Nichole
 
Yep edger, edge beveller same deal. What size is yours? For that thick an edge (where the welt is, I'd use at least a #2 and probably a #3. I blew up the pics and saw that you had used an edger. You want that edge to have a more rounded look a less pronounced 90 degree look to it. Sand first, edge, dye (if you're gonna do that, I almost never dye an edge), burnish using saddle soap, paraffin, gum traganath or Wyo Quick Slik with a smooth piece of wood, canvas etc.The edge should darken and shine up like glass. When properly rubbed.
 
Dave- I have no clue what size my beveler is, I'll have to go look.
Ok, I'll start finishing that way, thank you for the advice!!
 
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