A couple of equipment questions

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Jan 3, 2011
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Im looking for a good inexpensive oscillating spindle sander and steel cutting band saw.
Enough to make knives with but not a poor quality machine.

Im looking at a small Craftsman oscillating spindle sander. Craftsman is usually descent I think.
As for the band saw I have no idea. I actually have a new Craftsman band saw but its single speed and I cant figure out if it can be used for steel cutting.

What would you guys recommend in this sort of thing ??

Thanks!
 
I have that same saw 1234.. it does work well. Gotta be careful not to break the blades, but it works good. I want to build a little table for mine so I can use it like a stand up C-shape saw.
 
I use a harbor freight model with a pedal to start and stop it. Total cost was like 80-90$ tops.

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The pic is crooked not the saw lol
 
Personally I think it's near useless until I build a table for it. It's good for cutting bars to length.. but you cant really do detail work by hand (at least i can't) without having a table to rest things on, and a steady platform. Grizzly sells standup models starting around $1100.. but this thing is cheap and if you make a little table and clamp it up, it would probably do most work we need to do.
 
Its supper sturdy and has a 8x10" wooden table that is also sturdy. I can easily cut out a blade blank in 10 mins max depending on size etc. Touch up the profile in 5-10 mins depending on notches curves etc and im good to go. I could have spent more but really I just dont see the need after having it. Im all for buying the right tool for the job. Here are a few other toys I use and this bandsaw setup is just as good as the others tools in my shop!

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Different angle pic of bandsaw and if you wanted you could make a bigger table area but ive found this plenty big enough. That paper outline is 12" long for reference.

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Im not showing this to showoff or anything just saying Im willing to spend money (sometimes >1k$) for the right tool and if my 80$ foot pedal band saw is good enough its good enough otherwise I would have gotten a better setup. Now Im not saying there arnt tools that could do better but not anywhere near the price.
 
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I've got two spindle sanders from HF. I really like em and use them alot. Great for doing inside curves. Get your sleeves from Supergrit. In expensive, quality and good selection of grits. I got two sanders so I can go right from one grit to another. Good tool.
 
William,
Did you get that lathe after watching Dan work with his? I have moved a lathe up the list on my wish list
Jason
 
William,
Did you get that lathe after watching Dan work with his? I have moved a lathe up the list on my wish list
Jason

LOL actually yes. I wanted the mill (remember Im a nurse with a mechanical engineering degree) before I was really into knives for all kind of fun things but as I was ordering I was liek what the hell (thinking of seeing dan use his).
 
The Grizzly/Harbor Freight 4 X 6" bansaw is the standard for knifemakers. Use a good, bi-metal 24 TPI blade.
 
The Busy Bee has a 4 X 6" import type I've been using for all sorts of jobs for the last 20 years or so. Do the newer spindle sanders have a flexible shaft that holds the sanding drums? I had one from sears and after a short time it started to do any angle except a 90 degree. I use an inexpensive speed control router and small table from Canadian Tire, with the 1/4" shafted drums.
 
I guess the more important question on my end is that, are wood bandsaws and metal bandsaws created differently, and is it just the blade that changes?
 
Mostly the speed. Slow for steel. My HF Portable works great. I don't have wall space either and bolted a bar on it and use my bench vise to hold it vertical.
 
What Bill is saying is IMMEDIATELY replace that blade that comes with the saw with a good bi-metal blade. You can actually buy a good replacement blade at the Harbor Freight store now and there is a big price difference between them and the "standard" blades and for good reason.
The Grizzly/Harbor Freight 4 X 6" bansaw is the standard for knifemakers. Use a good, bi-metal 24 TPI blade.
 
I got you. Here is a good question for this thread, what do you use to clean the edges of the curvy parts of the hadles?
 
A 2x42 grinder can't get the curves and I hate using the files for the outlines. Like the swells in the handles. I am working on something that is close to a woodlore knife and I had a friend that has a metal shop at his work with a 2x42 grinder. I couldn't get the handle swells all grinded and smooth I had to use a file, or like a choil.
 
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