A gap showed up between the scale and tang

That might be the problem.
I remember using quite a bit of acetone to remove squized out epoxy from the front of the scale/ricasso area

So if not clean with plenty of acetone, how should I clean the squized out epoxy?
How do you guys do it?

Keep checking it after glue up. Every 20 mins. or so.
I can't remember who posted this originally, but it makes sense. You can also use a sharpened brass rod to scrape it without scratching the blade.
 
That might be the problem.
I remember using quite a bit of acetone to remove squized out epoxy from the front of the scale/ricasso area

So if not clean with plenty of acetone, how should I clean the squized out epoxy?
How do you guys do it?

I've lately been using a dry Q-tip to clean the epoxy that squeezes out the front of the scales. One firm pass each side. This gets the bulk of it, but usually leaves behind a thin film of epoxy on the blade surface. I remove this by very carefully wiping with a paper towel wetted with acetone, making sure not to touch the joint itself. Seems to work pretty well.
 
teppojutsu, I use carb cleaner on my blade before epoxy only because I have 4 cans of it handy. The brand I buy doesn't seem to have any residue but I use brake cleaner on gun parts to be cold blued and parts that are to be "browned" so I'm sure it would be great for degreasing blades also. Good idea. Larry
 
That might be the problem.
I remember using quite a bit of acetone to remove squized out epoxy from the front of the scale/ricasso area
. . .

I do that too with blade pointing down so acetone will flow to the blade not to the handle.
 
If you're going to depend on epoxy to hold the scales, you need to do everything you can to make the best bond.
The tech support people at the company that makes G-Flex epoxy told me that wet sanding, that is doing all the usual surface prep and then wetting the bonding surface with glue and sanding it before clamping the scales on, DOUBLES the rated holding power of the epoxy.
The reason for this is that (most people don't know this) stainless steel is stainless because it oxidizes immediately when exposed to air- if you don't wet sand, you're bonding to an oxide layer rather than the steel itself.
I don't tend to worry about this when using fasteners, but I sure would if I wasn't using them.
 
First - The proper cleaning solvent for uncured epoxy is not acetone - it is denatured alcohol.
Cured resin dissolves in acetone.

Here is how to get a perfect gap free and neat joint:
1)Use slow cure epoxy if you want the strongest bond. 24 hour cure is best. 5 minute epoxy is terrible for this task,and a really bad idea. 1 hour cure is an absolute minimum. Realize that one hour resin may only have 5-6 minutes working time. 24 hour resin has about an hour working time. Structural epoxies ate the best. T-88, G-flex, acraglass, etc.
2) Prep all surfaces with 100 grit paper. Make a recess in the tang if possible, or drill many extra holes to make epoxy bridges between the scales.\
3) Wash the tang with dish soap, rinse well, dry. If you feel the need to wipe off the scales and tang, use clean denatured alcohol and a paper towel.
4) Measure the epoxy by weight. You can't get the mix right by eyeball. The "By Weight" ratio should be on the container.
5) Wearing rubber gloves, apply the epoxy to both the scales and the tang. Apply epoxy to the rivets and the holes. Assemble and hold together with fingers.
6) Wipe off squeeze-out with a paper towel and toss the towel in a trash box. Place light force clamps on the scales in two or three places. Wipe off any new squeeze out. You d NOT want to clamp the scales down hard ..... just lightly enough to hold them down flush.
7) Change your rubber gloves, and wet a paper towel with denatured alcohol. Wipe off the blade. Don't worry about the handle, just get the excess off the blade. Only briefly wipe off the front of the handle at the ricasso. The alcohol will easily remove any resin.
8) Let set for a few minutes and wipe off the front of the scales again with a less wet paper towel. Just a damp amount of alcohol is what you want when cleaning up the front of the scales.
9) Check the mix pot and as the resin starts to gel, wipe off the front of the scales one last time with alcohol.
10) Let sit unmoved overnight to cure. In the morning, remove the clamps. If there was any additional squeeze out, use a 1/4" piece of brass square stock as a graver. Grind a 45 degree angle on the end to make the graver edge. The brass will not mar the blade. Wipe off with a paper towel dampened in acetone.

Note, the best position to place a knife while the resin cures is on its spine. Have the tip about an inch higher than the butt. That way, and drips and squeeze out will run down the front of the scales and off the blade. Usually, this leaves a perfect glue joint.
 
^ Awesome tips Stacey ... especially the brass graver :)
teppojutsu, I use carb cleaner on my blade before epoxy only because I have 4 cans of it handy. The brand I buy doesn't seem to have any residue but I use brake cleaner on gun parts to be cold blued and parts that are to be "browned" so I'm sure it would be great for degreasing blades also. Good idea. Larry

Cool Larry :thumbup:
Please if you can remember just call me Paul
Teppojutsu is a lot to type for a name lol
 
Thnx for the replies.
A quick question on denatured alcohol.
Over here it is 85% alcohol with a blue additive. Is that the same?
Doesn't the blue additive leave residue?
 
While it is generally called denatured alcohol, it is properly called methylated spirits. It is ethanol mixed with 10-15% methanol. The addition of methanol makes it non-drinkable, and poisonous. In many countries, a blue dye is added to let everyone know that it can't be used for drinking. It is fine to use as a cleaning solvent on knives.


Trivia -
Denatured alcohol was created to allow industrial use of it as a solvent without having to pay the tax on ethanol to the ATF. Ethanol was a "spirit" and all spirits were taxed.

In some parts of the world, drinking methylated spirits is called "Riding the Blue Train". ( because of the blue dye)

In the old days in the USA, pure ethanol ( 200 proof grain alcohol) was used in hospitals as a sterilizing agent. There were these little bottles of it that held a thermometer at every bedside. Drunks would sneak in the hospital and go from room to room drinking the alcohol out of the bottles. The hospitals switched to denatured alcohol ... and then they were treating lots of poisoned drunks. They had to add a blue dye so people would know it wasn't drinkable. They sometimes added camphor to make it smell and taste bad, too.

Around 1900, a mixture of gelatin, methanol, and ethanol was marketed as "canned heat". It was a clear gel that burned slowly ( and nearly invisibly) to cook over or heat food in buffet tables. It was first a waste product from making nitrocellulose. It was then used by a candle company experimenting to find a candle that didn't make soot. What they found was a good heat source, but a bad light source. The next company to take up this stuff was a chaffing dish company - S. Sternau & Co. - thus the name sterno. It was nothing much in sales until WW1 came along. Sternau Co. made a small metal box stove that collapsed, and canned the fuel in small tins. They called then device the Sterno-Inferno. It was sold as the perfect gift to give a soldier going overseas to fight the war. In the tradition of many great invention ( like sticky note, WD40, and super glue) they created a demand for a new product - Sterno. You could buy it at the grocery store in six packs. After the war, campers and hunters took it to the woods, and every home had it for emergencies when the power was out. During the depression, when alcohol was banned, drunks used to get the Sterno and squeeze it through a cloth and drink the alcohol to get high, and many went blind from methanol poisoning. They took to putting fruit in a sock with sterno, and squeezing it through the sock. It diluted the alcohol enough to allow a serious drunk to get a buzz without going blind. They called the mix "sock wine".
 
Just an fyi as an aside.... Brake cleaner is about the most effective wasp killer that I've ever come across, and evaporates quickly. And I mean dead on contact effective. I understand that brake cleaner and dry cleaning fluid are the same thing...oops....I guess thats two asides. :rolleyes:
 
Okay...denatured alcohol is tough to get in Canada for some reason. Seems that you might find it in drug stores if you look long enough. But through a camping forum I found "BioFuel" which is

95% Ethanol, and 5% 2-Propanol. So would that work too or is the propanol likely to leave a residue?
 
When I asked for denatured alcohol at the local hardware stores they all pointed me to methyl hydrate...99.9% pure. Will that work too or am I getting residue?
 
Methanol, methyl hydrate, wood alcohol, methyl alcohol, and a bunch more similar names are all the same thing. It is used as a thinner for some paints and shellacs, and as a cleaning agent.
When I was a kid, they used to call all the paint thinner type alcohol "Wood Alcohol".

Denatured alcohol is a bit purer, and a more precise blend of ethanol/methanol, but either type should work as a cleaning solvent.

Denatured alcohol comes in USP grade at the drug store for several bucks a pint. It also comes in industrial grade at the Big-box and other hardware stores for about $12 a gallon. It is often easier to find at the hardware stores that the drug store. Sometimes it is a mix of methanol and ethanol and the gallon can is just labeled "Alcohol".
 
Well...in Canada denatured alcohol seems to be a difficult score. Don't know why, but it doesn't show up at our hardware/building supply places. At least not under that name...maybe it has another name? Good to know that these other ones will work too. They are easy to track down.
 
I did a little checking and you are correct that it is hard to find in Canada. Canada probably had enough problems with people drinking it that it requires a permit to buy the stuff. They use methyl hydrate (methanol) up there instead.

You can get denatured alcohol in Canada at ridiculous prices as stove fuel, but it isn't worth it. It is also supposedly sold at marine suppliers by the gallon as "alcohol for boats" for a somewhat reasonable price.
 
Okay...denatured alcohol is tough to get in Canada for some reason. Seems that you might find it in drug stores if you look long enough. But through a camping forum I found "BioFuel" which is

95% Ethanol, and 5% 2-Propanol. So would that work too or is the propanol likely to leave a residue?

Propranol sounds like a petro product (I didn't look it up just assuming)
If it is then it's a no go petro=oil=bad for glue.

If nothing elese is available clean with what ever solvent you can find (brake cleaner) then wash with dawn dish soap and hot water wearing gloves.

We are over complicating now lol.

To test your solvent get a clean CLEAN piece of glass and drop some on it when it evaporates it should be clean . No residues or hard water looking stains.
 
Wikipedia says propanol is a primary alcohol and is an isomer of isopropyl alcohol. I guess I will experiment with a few things on glass and use the best. I know we have methyl alcohol readily available here and I will test some out soon.
 
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Methanol is an alcohol with three hydrogen atoms and one carbon atom, tied to a hydroxyl radical (OH) - CH3-OH

Ethanol is two carbon, five hydrogen, one hydroxyl - C2H5-OH


Propanol is an alcohol molecule with five carbon atoms in the bond - C5H7-OH
Iso-propanol is an isomer of propanol. Iso-propanol (isopropyl alcohol) is called rubbing alcohol.


Isopropanol is not nearly as good a solvent as the lower carbon alcohols ( methyl and ethyl).
 
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Never thought I'd be learning this alcohol stuff when I started sniffing around knife building! Very cool.
 
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