A knife for Mark by Markman

erik markman · Feb 1, 2012

Both flats finished to 600 grit.

Cleaned up the swedge with a Diafold and put some marker on it so when I sand the flats one more time I can see if I have a nice flowing line.

Cleaning up the bolster with a 600 Diafold.

Finishing the choil with an EDM stone.

Before finishsanding to 1000 grit I will put th final shape and finish on the handle because now I have the final shape of the bolster.

erik markman · Feb 1, 2012

To make the handle to it's final shape I like to have a small step between the handle and the bolster.
I do this by cutting a narrow strip of masking tape and wrap that around the bolster.
I grind close to the maskingtape and do the rest by hand until the fourth layer of tape starts coming off so I get a even step of three layers all around the bolster.

Cover the blade with a piece of bycicle innertube because accidentally hitting an almost finished blade with a fast moving 40 grit belt is not funny......

Hengelo_77 · Feb 2, 2012

"Cover the blade with a piece of bycicle innertube because accidentally hitting an almost finished blade with a fast moving 40 grit belt is not funny......"
It sounds like you are talking out of experience.
I like your work and enjoy seeing it take shape.

erik markman · Feb 2, 2012

I haven't done it yet but I can imagine the feeling it causes.

Getting ready to grind the handle close to the maskingtape.

I have split a 220 belt to about 3/4" to get into the tight curves of the handle.
Make sure to break the edges of the split belt so they do not dig into handle.

Handle roughly shaped.

Hand sanding to the maskingtape with 120 grit.
I will peel off the first layer of tape with 400 grit.

GTH11 · Feb 2, 2012

Great work Erik!! Mark i hope youll share it with us at the OKCA.

Burl Source · Feb 2, 2012

GTH11 said:
Great work Erik!! Mark i hope youll share it with us at the OKCA.

I am going to have to make some sort of a stand to display the knife, but yes I will bring it in April.

Erik, this knife is looking great!

Patrice Lemée · Feb 2, 2012

I like the bicycle tubing idea, might borrow that one. Thanks.

erik markman · Feb 2, 2012

Handle sanded to 400. I do not like highly polished handles so I use an oil I got from a dutch knife maker that really pops the grain and fills any voids or checks in the wood with the oil and sandingdust.
You can see the first layer of tape coming off.

Handle at 800 grit with the magic oil. It has a bit of resin in it so it hardens with time and gives a very nice satin finish.

Handle at 1000 grit.

erik markman · Feb 2, 2012

Overall vieuw with it's little brother wich I am making for myself.
Now comes finish sanding.

I use a piece of plastic tube because it fits the transition to the bolster and it sands faster.
I do not have to readjust the paper everytime, I just turn the tube a little while sanding.
It also gives more pressure on a smaller surface wich gives the paper more bite.

Burl Source · Feb 2, 2012

Erik, I am glad you mentioned using an oil that will build up a surface.
A lot of the makers just sand then buff with stabilized woods.
That can work out well with some of the woods, but many of the stabilized woods will still have some hairline checks around the eyes as well as small voids.
In my opinion, doing the finish the way you are showing makes wood that would have looked good look even better.
Plus, I like the way the oil brightens the colors.

The knife is looking great.
I am really excited about this one.
Thank You for doing such an in depth WIP.

penvisser · Feb 3, 2012

looking great, mate!

Jan

erik markman · Feb 3, 2012

Blade sanded to 800. Logo is next.

I put a strong light under the blade so I can see where to put the stencil. It takes the guessing out of it.
Stencil from Ernie Grospitch.

I use a batterycharger and a Q-tip and a bit of salted water.

Stuff used to do the etch.
Next is sanding to 1200 and etching the blade.

erik markman · Feb 3, 2012

Blade sanded to 1200. It looks nice as it is, not sure if I want to etch it......

Calvin Richardson · Feb 3, 2012

Beautiful integral sir.

jurgen · Feb 3, 2012

thats a really amazing knife,beautiful wood,i also like the indepth WIP,
whatever you doing buddy,you always do it only one way, the right one !!

i am very impressed,again !!

MVF · Feb 3, 2012

Really great looking knife. Thanks very much for the WIP.

NickWheeler · Feb 3, 2012

AWESOME!!! Can't think of anyone better to get an integral from Mark!!! Erik's got some mad skillz!

Even though he makes my feet hurt... just thinking about those wooden clogs!!!!

Erik, how do you make sure the knife is positioned in your new filing jig so that the bolster shoulder will be perfectly square to the blade/tang??? I like the idea. I am getting more into integrals lately, and want to improve my tooling so I can be more proficient with them.

That Redwood is insane... it looks like Maidou burl!!! SOOO NICE!!!

Thanks for sharing Erik and Mark!!!

erik markman · Feb 3, 2012

Thank you all for your compliments!

Nick: The jig has a slot in the front exactly in the middle of the tube so when I put the knife in it I can adjust it with the bolts so the back of the blade runs right through the middle of the slot. The top end with the hardened plate has to be square. Hope that makes sense.....

Wooden shoes rule!!! LOL.

firebolt · Feb 3, 2012

nice one Erik,

very nice piece off wood you got there

billf · Feb 3, 2012

Erik

That integral jig is very clever....but now you've done it by showing it to Nick

I foresee a Wheeler version full of bling, 20" spinners.....or at least polished to 1500 - haha

Not that I feel in any way qualified to give you advice, but I have toyed with a few integrals, and have a much less nice jig set-up - I usually start the shoulders on the metal cutting bandsaw, since that seems to get rid of "bulk" pretty nicely, and then there is much less filing.....

Bill