A new cutting surface for my work table - Hydroma.

300 would not be to bad for an entire table of that size. I could not see myself needing that much but if this stuff is that good it is pretty reasonable. Compared to the crappy little self healing mats you get at Walmart that are around $.06 per sq in. and only last a few months tops with heavy use, $.20 per sq in. for something that will last a long long time is looking pretty good to me. Thanks for bringing this to the board Tal!
 
Talfuchre said:
Sure thing man.

I honestly thought most people think that I was crazy to buy it.

TF
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Well, you did have one rather "blunt" detractor. :p

But honestly, only a maker that has been at it for years and went through a "few" cutting surfaces would understand spending a bit more for a better quality item. Its akin to the knife community, there are those that just cant understand why anyone would spend more than they themselves would for a cutting tool. And there are some who would vocalize their displeasure.
 
When I looked at it - and how cutting boards could be had - about 7 of them - for the cost - I thought to myself "Man, is this worth it?"

Now that I have looked at the final result - I am glad I did make the move. Now to make a head knife - I think that is the next logical step.

TF
 
Talfuchre said:
When I looked at it - and how cutting boards could be had - about 7 of them - for the cost - I thought to myself "Man, is this worth it?"

Now that I have looked at the final result - I am glad I did make the move. Now to make a head knife - I think that is the next logical step.

TF
Click to expand...

I been planning to make a head/round knife as well, someone somewhere said an Ulu works well too, if made from thinner stock
 
Brian and Matt,

I have a design in mind and plan on getting one made soon. I will post up a 'how to' sequence if I get to it soon.

TF
 
My next steel order I think I am going to get some 4" wide 1095 just for this 0.93 I think would be a good thickness
 
I would be interested in seeing that TF. I'm just busy and havnt got a hold of the 15n20 or o-1 I was going to use. .042 thickness for me.
 
Gentlemen, I have seven round/head knives and the ones I use hardly at all are the thicker one or two. I prefer the base thickness of the body of the blade at a max of .045. My two absolute favorites and by far the best performers are .041. My latest which I like very much was made from M4 steel by Joe Kious. Please consider going thinner. I think you will like the results. Heat treat, of course, is of prime importance also. L6 is also a very good steel for round knives. Think of used up circle saw blades as a possible recycle source and inexpensive if you at first don't succeed.

Paul
 
Well thank you :)

This is very interesting, especially the price… considering this price for the Uchida
Uchida GLL Marvy Opaque Cutting Mat, Jade Green, 36-Inch by 48-Inch - Price
$149.82
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We go thru 6 of these Uchidas at a time and they last around 6 months if we are busy.

Definitely food for thought here.
I think a small sample is in order for a test drive…

Thanks again.
 
Paul -

3/32nd steel is what I was considering using. Your measurment of .041 is about 1/2 as thick as that.

A saw blade, if you could find one that is actually high carbon, is 3/32nd.

Would you mind posting the knife (or a link) you are speaking of? I trust you implicitly on this regard and find your urging of thinner as correct. I would like to learn from you when making my own.


TF
 
TF - I was doing research on round knives. Lots of people make them with thick stock. I trust Paul. Nick Wheeler made one out of 1/16" O-1 if I remember correctly.

You can find O-1 in really thin stock from different places. Some guys use 15n20 which is what a lot of the saw blades are made out of as well. You can get that in thin stock as well.

Heat treat and then grind is my plan.
 
Per you request, my three favorites. Left to right

Danny Marlin custom made about 18 years old now. L6 saw blade steel .041

Very old Osborne, reprofiled blade shape and rehandled. It was the original round knife shape and I had one side ground off and rounded. Danny Marlin did the modification. He is located in Blanket, Texas. I really don't know the steel but it's good and also at about .041

Newest knife in the stable. Made by Joe Kious using the Danny Marlin as a guide. It's M4 steel and .041

They are all relatively small which I like. Left to right 3 1/4" point to point across the blade 3 1/8" and the M4 is 3 1/2"

Joe had to surface grind the M4 stock to take it down to the thickness we wanted.

Paul
 
Those are some nice looking and well loved knives there. Thanks for sharing the advice and showing them to us.
 
Meh.... what does this "Paul" guy know anyway? ;)

Thanks again sir. I am working on my own knife now - by hook of by crook I will get one.

Man that thing is thin!

TF
 
Wow, this thread is full of all kinds of great stuff! :D

I love that cutting board. I NEED a better leather cutting surface, and this looks like a great option. Thank you for sharing! :)

And pics of Paul's favorite round knives??? Sweet! :D (but now I'm gonna have to make a thinner, narrower one... :foot: ;)).

Thanks guys! :)
 
My friend Dave (Horsewright here on bf) is making some head knives. He's a full time maker and does a lot of leather work as well. Hope he doesn't mind me posting this picture, but these are some of what he's working on.

2iBHljt.jpg


He's doing them in AEB-L which should be perfect for this app.

Anyway, I'd bet he'd be happy to help any of you that have questions.

Just thought I'd mention that.

The other reason I'm posting... Tal, I looked at the cutting mat in your video, then read the reviews on Amazon. I then found the Olfa mat at Joannes. Using a coupon I got a 24x36" for $21 which seemed more than fair since it was far less than I found it anywhere else.

The mat is still new. Would you recommend that I take it back and get the mat that you more recently bought, or is the Olfa fine for cutting leather on?

Thanks,

Anthony
 
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