A new cutting surface for my work table - Hydroma.

Olfa, is that the thin green mat made for use with rotary cutters? If so it wouldn't last me a month.

If your concerned with costs (I am very much so) get a simple 1/2" thick polymer cutting board.

my next one, I think, will be one of those thicker restaurant supply models. Warpage is becoming an issue with mine. I dont know if its the heat of the summer or what. Two of my four are just slightly warped, not a big deal though.
 
I'll look into that. I did buy a cheap white plastic cutting board at the dollar store. It easily protects the surface under it, but my knives leave nasty wounds in the plastic that can transfer to the leather. I thought about grabbing a chunk of uhmw from work to cut on. It's super tough, but would probably still scar.

The Olfa mats are for rotary cutters specifically, which is what worries me. From what I've read, they are one of the best of their kind, but still not designed for using knives against.
 
Oh boy! Warped doesn't even begin to describe ...... er .....



what was I talking about? :confused:
 
No problem Strig. Those round knives that I made up are working great. I have five round knives currently and these are cutting circles around all the others, pardon the pun. Only one was for me the other for a buddy. I agree that thinner is absolutely better and was a design criteria from the get go. Peter's did the HT and they are right at 60 RC. My only problem was getting them symmetrical. I grind everything freehand and if I were to do them again I think I would come up with some kind of jig. All grinding was post ht by the way. They are simply too sharp for the poly boards, ya get stuck. Same with the Olfa mats. I do use the mats for cutting out chaps and leggings though, but I use an Olfa roller blade for that and fringe cutting. in the meantime I stole the wife's bamboo cutting board out of the kitchen and that is working. I'm researching this Hydroma stuff and that's how I found this thread. Leaning towards the whole workbench top deal. That framing is cool!
 
Its pretty great. It scars much like other mats - but due to its durometer and thickness - it essentially can take that abuse forever.

TF
 
Its pretty great. It scars much like other mats - but due to its durometer and thickness - it essentially can take that abuse forever.

TF

But my hard plastic cutting board would probably last, if not forever, then for a very long time. My question (now that you answered the other gentleman's) is the Hydroma going to scar and transfer the marks easily to the leather?
 
I can't speak for the others, but after I'm done with the cutting all my work is done on a granite slab that won't mark the leather.

That is a piece of counter top that I trash picked when they remodeled the local pizzeria.
 
I can't speak for the others, but after I'm done with the cutting all my work is done on a granite slab that won't mark the leather.

That is a piece of counter top that I trash picked when they remodeled the local pizzeria.

I'm a complete idiot. I read that and thought, yes, but if it's scarred up it'll transfer to the next piece, the next time you go to cut...

I've been cutting my leather grain side down. :banghead: So stupid! :(

Only thing that makes me feel better is seeing sweet work. :) Definitely makes me feel like pulling out the swivel knife. I did some half way decent work a few years back but I've lost my confidence. Do you use a pattern and transfer it? That's how I did it. That slightly translucent transfer paper with a basic drawing transfered on damp leather with the modeling stylus that came in a kit that my wife had bought me. I'd practice but I hate the thought of ruining a great piece of leather, same with stamping I guess.

Can't imagine why I'd dig that carving. :rolleyes: :D

BZB1Ljz.jpg
 
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Strig buddy don't be to hard on yourself. Granted you could probably do 80-90 percent of your cutting grain side up, there's still a percentage of trimming etc where the grain side, depending on the project, could be down. A smooth cutting board in those instances is still very desirable.
 
Paul, out of curiosity, what is your cutting table made of?

If I'm the Paul you are referring to, I have a four foot X four foot cutting table with the entire top covered with 1/2" poly, the type that is used for restaurant and butcher work, and smaller 18" X 24" board over on my work bench adjacent to my granite block. I got mine years ago from a restaurant supply house and a butcher supply respectively. They seem to be very similar to the Hydroma.

99.9% of the pattern cuts are made with the flesh side down so scarring even IF it could happen is not a factor, plus the fact that I don't cut wet or even damp leather. It's always bone dry when I cut so it would be really difficult to mark or scar it.

Paul
 
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If I'm the Paul you are referring to, I have a four foot X four foot cutting table with the entire top covered with 1/2" poly, the type that is used for restaurant and butcher work, and smaller 18" X 24" board over on my work bench adjacent to my granite block. I got mine years ago from a restaurant supply house and a butcher supply respectively. They seem to be very similar to the Hydroma.

99.9% of the pattern cuts are made with the flesh side down so scarring even IF it could happen is not a factor, plus the fact that I don't cut wet or even damp leather. It's always bone dry when I cut so it would be really difficult to mark or scar it.

Paul

Paul,

After watching your videos I concur with your first paragraph.

Your second paragraph matches my current findings as well.

TF
 
From the little I've been able to find, it seems Hydroma is a product of compressed fibers or layers of some sort. Not a homogeneous material like a poly board.

It sure would be fun to do some destructive testing on a small sample. :D
 
Thanks Dave and Paul. I'm not sure why I was cutting grain down. I remember thinking about it and making a conscious decision to do so, but for the life of me, cannot remember why.

Doesn't matter, all part of learning. ;)
 
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