a not-so-little rust prevention test: round 2

KennyB said:
Isn't Eezox very toxic? I've heard that before in the past, which makes me really surprised that FrogLube was able to match the performance of it so well and while being foodsafe.
Click to expand...
Umm... you might want to look again. FrogLube didn't match Eezox at all. At 18hrs they were very close, but on Day 5...
 
And I'd bet it Eezox is toxic when wet, But I doubt there is much if any transfer when applied properly. I don't really use my pocket knives for food and the fixed blades that do see food I won't use it on. I'll see if I can find the MSDS for it.
 
With respect to toxicity, would the very small amount placed on a blade be enough to really be toxic?

I think not... I mean, it's probably not worse for you than a packet of sweet-n-low.


EEZOX is good stuff in preventing rust. For those who haven't used it, it applies a thicker coating to the steel as opposed to oil's thinner coating. I would not consider it a lubricant at all though. It seems to dry sort of 'sticky' and might actually hinder folder opening although I can't say for sure, I generally use EEZOX on machetes, axes, tools and fixed blades.

Great test though, I'm happy to see CLP do so well. I really like it as a lubricant and rust preventer. Thanks for taking the time to do the test... very informative.

.
 
I think we've reached the end of this test since I decided to up the ante with two days of salt water. After two days of spraying the remaining plates with isotonic salt water twice/day, and then 36hrs of rain -- intermittent downpours and drizzle -- the lubricants met their match:

lubetest2-day12_zps7c6dd007.jpg


The photos have shown the best side, assuming that it had the proper application of lubricant and the other side was not necessarily applied enough/properly. Assuming that I removed the scale from the metal properly on each one and applied an even amount of each lubricant, it's pretty apparent which one protects the best. The kicker is that Eezox is a lousy lubricant. One other thing that I find puzzling is that the back side of the Eezox plate looked exactly like the CLP and WeaponShield plate. Until the last saltwater applications, the WeaponShield was doing better than the FrogLube and even the CLP. It may be that it doesn't hold up as well to salt water as FrogLube does, but for everything else it does better than FrogLube and just as well as CLP. It also lubricates a ton better than Eezox or CLP. I haven't tested out FrogLube's lubrication properties yet as that will entail dismantling the knife to heat up the tang for proper Frog Lube application. Maybe when my Contego arrives I'll give it a shot, especially since that's an M4 blade.

I may have to try this again after I figure out a way to consistently remove the scale from the welding plate and a more consistent way to apply the lubricant evenly. Of course, if anyone wants to donate a 3/32" or 1/8" thick 2" wide by 4ft. long bar of 1095 for this test along with some reinforced cutting wheels for my Dremel...:jdwink2:

Any future test would be sure to involve FrogLube in the kitchen setting since they advertise it as being made from food safe materials. Tomatoes, oranges, onions, mustard, etc. I'm also considering mixing 5W Nano-Oil (the best lubricant I've come across ) with some of the others to see if it improves their lubrication properties and how it might affect their protective properties. Maybe I'd even be able to find some Ballistol and include it.
 
I'll tell you, the EEZOX is some pretty amazing stuff. Not sure how well it lubricates but in all manner of these sorts of tests, the results seem to be the same. The EEZOX test piece is always the least rusty with the Breakfree CLP and/or some other thing (here froglube I guess) a close second...and the old school stuff like WD-40 and 3-in-1 doing terrible.
 
HoosierQ said:
Not sure how well it lubricates
Click to expand...

Not all that well, actually. What these two tests seem to show is that the better at lubricating it is, the worse at rust-prevention it is. The better a rust-prevention, the less it lubricates. The problem is finding a happy medium. WeaponShield and CLP seem to have done a fairly good job of that. If I need to coat a carbon blade, Eezox is my choice. Lubricating my Benchmade 581 with M390 steel? Nano-Oil. Not sure I'll use Nano-Oil on my Contego that I have coming since it's CPM-M4. Probably use WeaponShield on that after I disassemble it and clean off the Militec that Benchmade uses from the factory(!).
 
I've seen contradicting reports on frog lube. Can you give specifics on how it was applied besides the metal was heated? How hot, like to the touch or in a oven to a higher heat?

By the way I use eezox on all the external metal on my guns and on knives that are being stored, but Breakfree CLP on moving parts. No rust yet.
 
KennyB said:
Isn't Eezox very toxic? I've heard that before in the past, which makes me really surprised that FrogLube was able to match the performance of it so well and while being foodsafe.

I've seen tests with Eezox befor eand it always fairs well. Though one particular test, only one did better than it, and quite a surprise it was... Rem Oil
Click to expand...

Unfortunately Eezox contains Trichloroethylene - (see eezox msds). If you use it in a well ventilated area with gloves to protect your skin you should be ok though.

on edit: Froglube contains organics which while they are edible, are also prone to growing molds if stored for a few weeks. I suppose if you use it (knife or gun) that would keep any molds from forming.

So it's a choice you have to make. Mold, or health risk.
 
gixxer1237 said:
I've seen contradicting reports on frog lube. Can you give specifics on how it was applied besides the metal was heated? How hot, like to the touch or in a oven to a higher heat?
Click to expand...
I heated it with a hair dryer until it was too hot to hold, held the plate with an oven mitt and coated both sides. The FrogLube turned to liquid pretty quick, and I spread it around with a wood-shaft q-tip until it was evenly applied, then let the plate cool.


One thing I'm considering is getting some 5-weight Nano-Oil to mix with CLP, WeaponShield, or FrogLube (not sure how to mix it with a paste, though) to improve their lubricating ability. Nothing has shown (to me) to be slicker than Nano-Oil, and the maker says they can be mixed with other lubricants to improve their properties. I figure I'll give it a shot.
 
Last edited:
Really neat test. I have never heard of most of these, but I luckily have a bottle of CLP laying around, nice to hear that it fairs so well.
 
loonybin said:
I thought I had some Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30, but I had used it. Otherwise I would have included it.


I have a feeling that they are chlorinated in some way (hence they make more salts each time they get wet). Militec-1 did the same thing, but worse than the Prolix/Blue Lube.
Click to expand...

Weaponshield is also chlorinated, but uses a fairly stable form of the additive along with a healthy dose of buffers to keep acidic byproducts down. In my own testing I can confirm how badly militec 1 did, I'm glad to see WS CLP do so well though since it's my "go to" lubricant right now and I have a big 16oz bottle of it that's nowhere near empty yet.
 
I'm getting a machete pretty soon-carbon steel- I believe. I plan on using it to chop coconuts as well as small chopping tasks. I see that the frog oil is best for that, but, I may eventually designate a cleaver for coconuts and just use eezox. You guys mention that it leaves the blade almost sticky? Will that gunk up a sheath and/or cause it to get grimy?
 
Also, you guys write about wanting to lubricate your blades, why would you want to lubricate blades. Sorry, I'm new to all this. By the way, you administering this test is why I go on bladeforums; I learn so much from the enthusiasts on here. Thanks a lot!
 
The lubrication aspect is for folding knife pivots and mechanisms. Most lubricants are marketed as being protectants as well, and vice versa. For coconuts I'd recommend something that doesn't mess with the flavor of what you're cutting, you can either clean and dry the knife regularly like you would for a carbon steel chef's knife, or use something like food grade mineral oil or ballistol. Ballistol has a very strong scent when fresh out of the can or just applied, but once the alcohol and other volatiles in it evaporate it's flavorless and odorless. Actually coconut oil for cooking would work for your application too.
 
I think I will just use two different oils: one for the pivot and me for the blade on folders. Thanks for the test, you did a great job keeping the variables down and giving us some real world proof!

Thanks!!
 
Great review. Thank you for doing this and sharing!! I have been using cpl break free on my guns since I got them. Been using on my knives too. So it's a good thing. :)
 
Hi, all.

Thank you for this wonderful thread. I am new here and been using Tuf-Glide for the past 10 years, and am glad that it seems to do ok(at least before day 12).

Eezox seems to be a clear winner here but as someone mentioned in the thread, although it might not be the best lube for the joints(post #24). And that got me curious, what happens if Eezox is mixed with Weaponshield or nano-oil(Say 1:3 or 1:2)? Would that make a good rust-proof joint lube with decent performance then?

About the test methodology, I am also curious why the backside(worst side) of Eezox is just as bad as CLP/Weaponshield at Day 12. Will changing the direction the plates face or their position every 12 or 24 hours be a good solution to mitigate potential side effects from weather/sunshine/wind? Also, will placing these plate on a foam rub off the lube/rust and make the worse became worst?

Once again, thanks for the test and the effort that put in it, hope to see more in the future! :thumbup:
 
comis said:
Hi, all.

Eezox seems to be a clear winner here but as someone mentioned in the thread, although it might not be the best lube for the joints(post #24). And that got me curious, what happens if Eezox is mixed with Weaponshield or nano-oil(Say 1:3 or 1:2)? Would that make a good rust-proof joint lube with decent performance then?
Click to expand...
I really don't know how well that would work. I am way too busy with a new job and new house (not to mention practicing for bowhunting season) to try another test with mixed lubricants. If someone else wants to try, though...

About the test methodology, I am also curious why the backside(worst side) of Eezox is just as bad as CLP/Weaponshield at Day 12. Will changing the direction the plates face or their position every 12 or 24 hours be a good solution to mitigate potential side effects from weather/sunshine/wind?
Click to expand...
I really don't know why that one side did better than everything else. It's possible I didn't get enough scale off of the good side, or I removed too much product from the "bad" side at the start.

Also, will placing these plate on a foam rub off the lube/rust and make the worse became worst?
Click to expand...
Not likely. I set them on the foam gently, didn't slide them around, and they were only on the foam long enough for pictures.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top