a not-so-little rust prevention test: round 2

Ernie1980 said:
I think I will just use two different oils: one for the pivot and me for the blade on folders. Thanks for the test, you did a great job keeping the variables down and giving us some real world proof!

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

That's what I do. Nano-Oil in the pivots and Fluid Film on the blades.
 
Thanks for the reply, and am in process of getting Eezox and Weaponshield. Pretty eager to see how well a mixed combination will lube at joint.
 
comis said:
Thanks for the reply, and am in process of getting Eezox and Weaponshield. Pretty eager to see how well a mixed combination will lube at joint.
Click to expand...

It will largely depend on your ratio of WS to Eezox. The more Eezox you put in the mixture, the less lubricating it will do.
 
Marking for future reference. I like Boeshield T9 on my tools. Developed by Beoing for use in aircraft especially around salt water
 
agile_1 said:
Unfortunately Eezox contains Trichloroethylene - (see eezox msds). If you use it in a well ventilated area with gloves to protect your skin you should be ok though.

on edit: Froglube contains organics which while they are edible, are also prone to growing molds if stored for a few weeks. I suppose if you use it (knife or gun) that would keep any molds from forming.

So it's a choice you have to make. Mold, or health risk.
Click to expand...

Just wanted to clarify for anyone interested the mold IS a health risk in itself, but maybe not in the concentrations we would see in this application. Molds produce mycotoxins which are carcinogenic and can be quite deadly in high enough doses.

I also can't help but think that the main toxicity concerning Eezox is the solvent(s) that are used. Once it evaporates, I'd imagine that what is left would be pretty much adhered to the steel. Can anybody confirm this?

When talking about toxicity, it's important to realize that quantity is extremely important. Everything on this planet is toxic with enough quantity, the question is whether a coating of Eezox would be enough quantity to be toxic at all. Take for example, apple seeds have cyanide in them which is highly toxic in larger doses. Eat one or two seeds and you will be just fine, but eat two or three apples worth of seeds and you might just die.
 
blame it on god said:
Thanks for posting.

I did a similar test with Tuf-glide and had good results with it as a protective film. As a lubricant tuf-glide is garbage from my experience though. I'm curious, How are the other good performers as lubes?
Click to expand...

Break free does a passably good job with lubrication. Good all around.
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but...

Some other folks and I (including custom knifemakers) were talking about Frog Lube last week, and whether it would be good for protecting knives during storage and shipping... one of our concerns was the reports of the strong minty smell, and whether or not that would gross out our customers, especially when sending them kitchen cutlery. (the food-safe aspect of it is what really interested me in the first place)

I ordered a 4oz jar of the Frog Lube CLP paste and received it a couple days ago. It definitely smells strongly like Pepto-Bismol. But after applying it to a couple blades and letting them sit out overnight, I can't smell it on them. I also licked 'em (I know, that's kinda gross, but how else would I know?) and I can't taste it either. You can kinda sorta tell there's something on them by touch and appearance, but it doesn't feel greasy. I don't think you'd even notice it was there if you didn't already know. :thumbup:

I haven't done any corrosion testing on/with it yet, but other people's results I've seen here have been pretty dang good. And it does not turn a blade into a stinky, oily mess. So... so far I'm pleased. I like it better than mineral oil or machine oil, for sure.

Haven't had time yet, but I plan to work some into the moving parts of my crusty old gunked-up Leatherman and see if it helps loosen the grime in the pivots.
 
Couple of thoughts on Frog Lube regarding knives:

1. About 3 months ago I did the full Frog Lube heat application method on a Spyderco Delica. I completely disassembled the knife and applied the Frog Lube using their method of heating the metal components with a hair dryer until hot to the touch (maybe 140 to 150 deg F, as a guess). I let the FL sit on the parts for about an hour, then wiped clean and reassembled.

I've been mostly daily carrying this knife during that time, but my use has been very light. After a month, it was still very lightly slick to the touch, but *not* at all wet with no residue. Just slidey feeling. I just tested it a few minutes ago and the majority of that "feel" is now gone. Not sure when that happened, but it's gone now. What would happen if I heated it up? Or just wiped it down with a little fresh Frog Lube? Not sure how long it would last; I should try it. I'm also not sure how to rate the internal lubrication retention. It still opens quickly, but nothing super impressive. I don't think it's as fast and slick to open as it was 30 to 60 days ago. <shrug>

2. I've read a few things online about Frog Lube getting gummy from long term storage. There's a youtube video where a guy who initially loves FL has some issues with it getting tacky or gummy. But then he posted a retraction after personally talking to the owner of the company. I didn't completely understand his retraction to be honest. I *think* he thinks he over lubricated the pistols and then they gummed up.

Here's the retraction video. He talks about the problems he had starting at about 3:45.

[video=youtube;m1zlpz5mPnk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1zlpz5mPnk[/video]

Probably not an issue for knives, but if you used a lot you might run into this same issue. Draw your own conclusions of course.

Brian.
 
Noticed that this thread has been reinvigorated, so have a question about a protectant that was not mentioned.

Mil-Comm? Comes in a variety of viscosities, from light oil thru grease. Have seen several tests on the net which had great results. My first try at it will be when it arrives next week.

Personally, I've been using Eezox in all of my handguns and rifles. Started using it only as a protectant; now use it exclusively as a CLP on all metal parts. Since it dries when applied and cured properly, it doesn't attract all the dust, grit, grime and gunk which guns in the field produce. Some gun experts claim that more damage occurs to moving steel parts from the over-application (and resulting collection-of-dirt process) of lubricants than ever occurs to lightly lubed parts. Since knives don't collect nearly the dirt that guns collect and are proably cleaned more often, I'd guess that Eezox (and Mil-Comm ?) are the way to go.

Other opinions?
 
james terrio said:
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but...

Some other folks and I (including custom knifemakers) were talking about Frog Lube last week, and whether it would be good for protecting knives during storage and shipping... one of our concerns was the reports of the strong minty smell, and whether or not that would gross out our customers, especially when sending them kitchen cutlery. (the food-safe aspect of it is what really interested me in the first place)

I ordered a 4oz jar of the Frog Lube CLP paste and received it a couple days ago. It definitely smells strongly like Pepto-Bismol. But after applying it to a couple blades and letting them sit out overnight, I can't smell it on them. I also licked 'em (I know, that's kinda gross, but how else would I know?) and I can't taste it either. You can kinda sorta tell there's something on them by touch and appearance, but it doesn't feel greasy. I don't think you'd even notice it was there if you didn't already know. :thumbup:

I haven't done any corrosion testing on/with it yet, but other people's results I've seen here have been pretty dang good. And it does not turn a blade into a stinky, oily mess. So... so far I'm pleased. I like it better than mineral oil or machine oil, for sure.

Haven't had time yet, but I plan to work some into the moving parts of my crusty old gunked-up Leatherman and see if it helps loosen the grime in the pivots.
Click to expand...

Have you looked at the Lubriplate SFL-0?Its rated for use on food prep machinery.Ive used it in the past as a pistol lube and it works perfectly.Its alot cheaper than most of the others,and has no odor.

As far as the paste lubes,I liked the SEAL1 better than the frog lube as it reacts quicker to heat(touch of the finger) with a clean smooth consistency of a chapstik,so to speak.Has a light pumpkin orange like color and a faint odor of Double Bubble chewing gum, IMHO.After about 24 hours its odorless.Been using that in my muzzleloaders since about 2013 and haven't noticed any gumming,or mold issues(which says something because I have a mold/mildew issue in this old house).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top