A question for the Spartan Harsey Folder owners.

Thanks to all who responded. I took everyone’s advice and I’m quite happy with how smooth the knife is now. My thumb was aching for the first couple days, but if I push the thumb stud straight up along the frame and make sure to take all pressure off the lockbar, 100 or so openings and closings and it’s great!

Also HAPPY NEW YEAR BF!
 
el gigantor said:
Thanks to all who responded. I took everyone’s advice and I’m quite happy with how smooth the knife is now. My thumb was aching for the first couple days, but if I push the thumb stud straight up along the frame and make sure to take all pressure off the lockbar, 100 or so openings and closings and it’s great!

Also HAPPY NEW YEAR BF!
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It's a process breaking in a SHF, but it's also a source of pride of ownership for me.

I bought my first SHF a couple months back when I saw other BF friends rave about them and it had a detent from he**.

Now, after interminable fidgeting, she's as smooth as silk. Worth every second of thumb pain!!!
 
ShF are made tight on purpose and require break. They do this so when it loosens up by the detent track getting worn in and having a burr, the knife is perfectly tuned.

Another thing is you should put zero pressure on the lock side.

Finally big tip is technique. With the SHF there is a cutout on the handle. Use that cutout to properly align and angle your thumb. Open straight from this point at a 11 ' o clock direction
 
Just received a LNIB 3.25 off the Exchange and the action is pretty darn good, plus I'm encouraged to learn it will continue to improve.

Being my first Spartan, and not doing extensive research, I am bit surprised by the sharp edges in the milling. From what I gather in other threads, this is normal...?
 
I squeezed a blend of nano oil and graphite power in the pivot, and eased it up with a torx.... I have nothing but good things to say about this knife since! It's not drop shut, but I don't want it to be so I'm fine.
 
for others since op figured out how to do it easier....keeping the other fingers very low on the knife and on the side instead of on the lower part of the lock bar then pushing straight up make it much easier too......I figured this out one of my other SHF that was hard to open......
 
Quiet said:
Mine was difficult at first, but after about 400 or so openings and closings, it smoothed out to the point that it flicks open easily, and is drop-shut. This is the only bronze-bushing knife I've ever had or even held that does that, and the pivot is where it's supposed to be, not loose in the slightest. My CRKs I've owned for years and opened thousands of times couldn't dream of being as smooth as my SHFs are.

Also, actually look at your hand when opening the knife to be sure you aren't inadvertently applying pressure to the lock bar when opening. I've had that issue before, and had to learn to adjust how I held the knife when opening it.
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^
This

I also have large hands (size 9) and it is easier than you think for your fingers to apply pressure on the lockbar. Even just a little pressure can make opening the knife very difficult.

Every week I have the argument with myself to get rid of all my framelocks and stick with linerlocks and slip joints.
 
Sonnydaze said:
OUCH! You can believe some of the people some of the time.
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Hey, you don't have to believe me, I won't be offended. I'm merely sharing my personal experience. I don't have any CRKs that are dropshut...on bushings no less. Both my SHFs are at this point, which is a common observation on both Spartan pages I'm on as well. 🤷‍♂️

Also, one other thing, Bill Harsey isn't ever going to give you attitude because "yOu ARen'T supPOSeD tO FLIck ouR knIVeS!" SHFs are flickable, and lock up like a bank vault (just like my CRKs do when opened slowly). Just different strokes. Or in this case, flicks!
 
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